Frederick Young - A Winter Tour in South Africa
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A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA
by
SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G.
(Reprinted by permission from the Proceedings of the Royal Colonial
Institute, with large additions, Illustrations, and a Map.)
London:
E.A. Petherick & Co., 33, Paternoster Row, E.C.
1890
[Illustration: MY WAGON.]
TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCESS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LORNE,
This Volume, describing a recent tour, during which
a large portion of Her Majesty's magnificent
Dominions in South Africa were traversed,
is, by gracious permission, dedicated
with feelings of sincere
respect.
[Illustration: Decorative]
INTRODUCTION.
The growth of the great Colonies of the British Empire is so phenomenal,
and their development is so rapid, and remarkable, that if we are to
possess a correct knowledge of their actual state, and condition, from
year to year, their current history requires to be constantly
re-written.
The writer of a decade since, is, to-day, almost obsolete. He has only
produced a current record of facts, and places, at the period he wrote.
This is especially the case with South Africa.
I have recently returned from a very interesting tour in that remarkable
country. My impressions were noted down, as they occurred, from day to
day. A summary of my observations, and of the incidents, in connection
with my journey, was the subject of a Paper I read at the opening
meeting of the present Session of the Royal Colonial Institute, on the
12th of November last. I wish it to be understood that the opinions
expressed on that occasion were my own, and that the Institute as a body
is in no way responsible for them. This Paper has formed the outline of
the volume, which--with much new matter from my note book--I now offer
to the public, in the belief, that the narrative of a traveller, simply
seeking instruction, as well as amusement, from a few months tour, while
traversing some 12,000 miles by sea, and 4,000 miles by land, through
the wonderful country in which he lately roamed, might prove of some
use, in awakening additional interest on the part of the general public,
to one of the most promising, and valuable portions of the Colonial
Empire.
In this spirit, I offer my "Winter Tour in South Africa," to my
countrymen, "at home and beyond the seas," in the hope that it may
receive from them, a favourable reception.
On the "Political Situation," I have spoken strongly and frankly, I hope
not too much so. The result of my personal observations has convinced
me, that I have only correctly expressed the opinions, very widely
entertained by large classes of Her Majesty's subjects in South Africa.
I cannot conclude without acknowledging the aid I have derived from the
Statistical information contained in the "Argus Annual," and it also
affords me much pleasure to thank Mr. James R. Boose, the Librarian of
the Royal Colonial Institute, for the assistance he has rendered me.
FREDERICK YOUNG
5, Queensberry Place, S.W.
_1st January, 1890._
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
MY WAGON Frontispiece
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN facing 6
PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPETOWN facing 8
JOHANNESBURG, MARKET PLACE facing 57
CEMETERY, MAJUBA HILL facing 81
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MARITZBURG facing 83
A STREET IN MARITZBURG facing 84
TOWN HALL, DURBAN facing 86
HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN facing 89
HEX RIVER PASS facing 107
CONTENTS.
PAGE
DEDICATION. v.
INTRODUCTION. vii.
THE VOYAGE.--Embark at Southampton--Amusements at
Sea--Lisbon--Madeira--Teneriffe--St. Helena--Longwood--Arrival
at Cape Town 1-4
CAPE TOWN.--Queen's Birthday--Review of Troops--Regatta--Table
Bay--Table Mountain--Hotels--House of Parliament--Observatory--South
African Museum--Public Library--Botanic Gardens--Record Office--Places
of Worship--Harbour Works and Breakwater--Graving Dock--Simon's
Town--Kalk Bay--Constantia--Wynberg--Journey to Kimberley 5-21
KIMBERLEY.--Address of Welcome from the Fellows of the Royal Colonial
Institute--Diamond Industry--Bultfontein Mine--DeBeer's
Mine--Compounds--United Companies--Central Kimberley Diamond
Mine--Kimberley Hospital--Progress of Kimberley--Town Hall--Post
Office--High Court--Public Library--Waterworks--_En route_ for
Bechuanaland--Wagon Travelling--Warrenton--Drake's Farm 22-38
BECHUANALAND.--Scenery--Field for Settlement--Vryburg--Lochnagar
Farm--Prospect of Gold Discovery 39-46
KLERKSDORP.--Nooitgedacht Mine--Pan Washing--Klerksdorp Gold Estates
Company--Future of Klerksdorp 47-49
POTCHEFSTROOM.--Wagon Journey--Presence of Gold-bearing
Reefs--Vultures--Fort and Cemetery--Chevalier Forssman 50-52
JOHANNESBURG.--Difficulties of Travelling--Appearance of the
Town--Gold--Knights--The Jumpers--Robinson's--Langlaagte--Descent
to the Mines--Market Square--Growth of Johannesburg--Sanitary
arrangements 53-59
PRETORIA.--Water Supply--The Volksraad--President Paul Kruger--High
Court of Justice--Want of Railroads--Growing Prosperity--Post
Office--New Government Buildings--Political and Social Life--Pretoria
Races 60-65
WATERBURG.--Polonia--Hebron--Salt Pans--Kafirs--Appearance of the
Country--Prospects of Gold--Scarcity of Game--Bush Fire--Narrow
Escape--Transport Driver--Waterburg Sulphur Baths--Nylstroom
Road--Return to Pretoria 66-78
PRETORIA TO NATAL.--Coach to Johannesburg--Post Cart
Travelling--Richmond--Heidelburg--Standerton--Newcastle--Eland's
Laagte--Natal Railway--Coal Fields--Laing's Nek--Majuba
Hill--Ingogo--Scenery of Natal 79-82
MARITZBURG.--Public Buildings--House of Assembly--Statue of the
Queen--British Troops 83-84
DURBAN.--Railway Journey--Town Hall--Municipal
arrangements--Trade--Harbour Works--The "Berea"--Natal Central
Sugar Company's Manufactory--Trappist Establishment at Marion
Hill--Defences--Embark for Port Elizabeth 85-96
PORT ELIZABETH.--Trade--Town Hall--Public Library--Ostrich
Feathers--The "Hill"--Botanical Garden--Hospital--Water
Supply--Churches--Presentation of an address 97-101
GRAHAMSTOWN.--Railway Journey--Scenery--Botanical Gardens--Mountain
Road--Museum--The Prison--Kafir School--Ostrich Farm at Heatherton
Towers--Export of Feathers 102-105
PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.--Scenery--Hex River Pass--Arrival at
Cape Town--Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society--Start for
England--Arrival at Southampton 106-108
CLIMATE. 109-112
THE NATIVE QUESTION. 113-116
RAILWAYS. 117-122
COLONISATION. 123-127
THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 128-148
APPENDIX:--
I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South
Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial
Institute 149-163
II. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town 164-173
[Illustration: Decorative]
THE VOYAGE.
On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. _Spartan_ for
Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most
enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or
pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on
so admirably the weekly communication between England and South Africa,
are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are
so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample
and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a
confirmed grumbler, to find any reasonable fault with any of their
arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the
particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the
convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular
choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail
Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.
A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity
for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant
to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of
life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in
spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including
cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced
a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at
concerts, lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but
also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay,
a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque
capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the
scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the
town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay at the lovely island
of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe
its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty
town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings; a passing
peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as
an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting heat through
the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to
Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon breathed his
last--leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all
time--on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary
sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises,
dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance upward, night
after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much
belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the
extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the early
morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.
[Illustration: Decorative]
[Illustration: Decorative]
CAPE TOWN.
To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is
essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather.
Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a
deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful
day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter
genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite
charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of
Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually
striking to a traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the
Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of
"Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally _en fete_. The inhabitants
thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay
costumes among the motley crowd--English, Dutch, Germans and French,
Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots--a tremendous gathering,
in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There
was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which
His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a
brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag; and, as
her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The
review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite
refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic
evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited in the capital of the
Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British
Empire.
[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
Before commencing my long and interesting tour "up country," I spent a
few most pleasant, days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its
beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The
panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table
Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and
brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there
is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements,
and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them
as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not come at all
up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and
convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am satisfied, is
not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number
of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail themselves of its
attractions of climate, and fine surroundings.
While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of
Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public
Library, the Botanic Gardens, &c.
[Illustration: PARLIAMENT HOUSE, CAPE TOWN.]
The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a
very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided
into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two
debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive
dimensions, is approached by a commanding flight of granite steps, which
runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of
pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and
ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main
floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the
neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of
red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Portland cement,
the effect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation
for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and
arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to
the Debating Chambers, which are sixty-seven feet in length by
thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance,
with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central
lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers
are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of
Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a
large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full
height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking
rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the
members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample
provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the
press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds
one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British
Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was
L220,000.
I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much
impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious
legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet
dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone,
observed on both sides of the House, which might be copied with
advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the practice, in the
Parliament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice,
that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own
ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox
propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony.
At the Record Office attached to the House of Parliament, I went into
the vaults, and inspected the early manuscripts of the Dutch, during
their original occupation of the Cape of Good Hope. These are most
deeply and historically interesting, and valuable. The minute accuracy,
with which every incident is recorded is most remarkable. There are bays
in these vaults, filled with records, which must be of priceless value
to an historical student, and they are now in course of arrangement by
the able librarian, Mr. H.C.V. Leibbrandt, who is the author of a most
interesting work entitled "Rambles through the Archives of the Colony of
the Cape of Good Hope."[A]
At the South African Museum I found a valuable collection of beasts,
birds, fishes, &c., not only from South Africa, but from various parts
of the world. The collection has been enriched by valuable contributions
from Mr. Selous, the distinguished African traveller, and sportsman, his
donations consisting chiefly of big game, including two gigantic elands,
(male and female), buffaloes, antelopes, &c. The series of birds
comprises the large number of two thousand species.
A visit of great interest to me was to the South African Public Library,
which boasts of about 50,000 volumes, and embraces every branch of
science and literature. It contains three distinct collections, viz.,
the Dessinian, the Grey, and the Porter. The first-named was bequeathed
to the Colony in 1761 by Mr. Joachim Nicholas Von Dessin, and consists
of books, manuscripts and paintings. The Porter collection took its name
from the Hon. William Porter, and was purchased from the subscriptions
raised for the purpose of procuring a life-size portrait of that
gentleman, in recognition of his services to the Colony. As, however,
Mr. Porter declined to sit for his portrait, the amount subscribed was
appropriated to the purchase of standard works, to be known as the
Porter Collection. By far the most valuable, however, is the Grey
Collection, numbering about 5,000 volumes, and occupying a separate
room. These were presented by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape
Colony from 1854 to 1859, and still an active member of the New Zealand
House of Representatives. Here are many rare manuscripts, mostly on
vellum or parchment, some of them of the tenth century, in addition to a
unique collection of works relating to South Africa generally.
Among the places of worship in Cape Town the most important are St.
George's Cathedral, which was built in 1830, and is of Grecian style of
architecture, and accommodates about 1,200 persons; and the Dutch
Reformed Church, which possesses accommodation for 3,000 persons, and is
not unappropriately named the Colonial Westminster Abbey. Beneath its
floors lie buried eight Governors of the Colony, the last one being Ryk
Tulbagh, who was buried in 1771.
No account of Cape Town would be complete without a reference to the
important Harbour Works, and Breakwater, which at once attract the
attention of the visitor, and which have been in course of erection for
several years past, from the designs of Sir John Coode. These works
have been of the greatest importance in extending, and developing the
commercial advantages of the port. The Graving Dock now named the
Robinson, after the late Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was formally
opened during the year 1882, and it so happened that the first vessel to
enter it was the _Athenian_, in which I returned to England, at the
termination of my tour. The whole of the works connected with the
building of the Docks and Breakwater reflect credit upon all who have in
any way been engaged upon their construction. The amount expended on
them up to the end of 1887 was L1,298,103.
Before leaving Cape Town, at the invitation of the Naval
Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Wells, I paid a visit to Simon's Town, the
chief naval station of the colony. The railway runs at present as far
as Kalk Bay, which takes about an hour to get to from Cape Town. Kalk
Bay is a pleasant seaside resort for the inhabitants of the colony, the
air being regarded as particularly invigorating. The remaining distance
of six miles to Simon's Town is performed in a Cape cart, which is a
most comfortable vehicle on two wheels, drawn by two horses with a pole
between them, and covered with a hood, as a protection from the weather.
The scenery from the Kalk Bay station to Simon's Town is very
picturesque. A bold sea stretches out on one side of the road, and the
mountain on the other. Amongst other things which attracted my attention
at Simon's Town was the Dockyard, which embraces about a mile of the
foreshore, and contains appliances for repairing modern war vessels, a
repairing and victualling depot, and a patent slip, capable of lifting
vessels of about 900 tons displacement. I went with the Admiral, and a
party of ladies to have luncheon on board the Steam Corvette _Archer_.
Simon's Bay is very sheltered, excepting from the south-east, with good
holding anchorage ground. It seems a quiet, secluded spot, well-adapted
for a naval station in this part of the world, although I have heard
that an opinion prevails that the fleet should be at Cape Town instead
of Simon's Bay. The _Raleigh_ is the flag-ship; I saw also some other
vessels of the Royal Navy at anchor in the bay. The fortifications which
are now in progress for the protection of this important point in our
chain of defences will, when completed, render the place practically
impregnable from sea attack.
Some of the most beautiful coast scenery I have ever seen is to be found
in that very lovely drive by Sea Point to Hout's Bay, and thence back to
Cape Town by Constantia and Wynberg. This is a celebrated excursion,
and well deserves the praises bestowed upon it. The road has been
admirably constructed by convict labour.
A very convenient short line of railway also brings within easy reach of
the inhabitants of Cape Town the pretty villages of Mowbray, Rondebosch,
Rosebank, Newlands, Wynberg, Constantia, &c., where, in charming villas
and other residences, so many of the wealthier classes reside. At
Constantia the principal wine farms are situated, the most noted being
the Groot Constantia (the Government farm) and High Constantia.
Constantia wine can only be produced on these farms. Another farm in
this neighbourhood is Witteboomen, which is particularly noted for its
peaches, there being over one thousand trees on the farm, in addition to
many other kinds of fruit. Another one, and probably the largest in the
district, is named "Sillery." Here not many years ago the ground was a
wilderness, but it has now attained a high state of perfection, there
being at least 140,000 vines and hundreds of fruit trees of all kinds,
under cultivation.
At Cape Town I received the first proofs of the kind and lavish
attentions which everywhere in South Africa were subsequently bestowed
upon me. From everyone, without exception--from His Excellency the
Administrator and Mrs. Smyth, and the members of his staff--from all the
public men and high officials--from members of the Cape Government, and
from the leaders of the Opposition, besides from innumerable private
friends, Dutch and English alike, I received such cordial tokens of
goodwill, that I can only express my deep sense of appreciation of their
most genial and friendly hospitality. I bid adieu to Cape Town (which I
was visiting for the first time in my life) with the conviction that I
was truly in a land, not of strangers, but of real friends, who desired
to do everything in their power to make my visit to South Africa
pleasant and agreeable to me; and this impression I carried with me ever
afterwards at every place I visited during the whole of my tour.
On Wednesday, May 29, I left Cape Town at 6.30 p.m. for Kimberley,
passing Beaufort West, the centre of an extensive pastoral district, and
De Aar, the railway junction from Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. This
journey is a long one, of between 600 and 700 miles, and of some
forty-two hours by railway. I travelled all through that night, and the
whole of the next day, through the most remarkable kind of country I
ever saw. Flat, and apparently as level, as a bowling-green (although we
were continually rising from our starting-point at Cape Town to a
height at Kimberley of about 3,800 feet above the sea), a sandy and
dreary desert, with occasionally low, and barren hills in the far
distance--not a tree to be seen, and scarcely any vestige of vegetation,
excepting now and then, a few of the indigenous Mimosa shrubs, which,
for hundreds of miles, grow fitfully on this desolate soil. This is the
wonderful tract of country called the Great Karoo. Not a sign of animal
life is to be detected, at this period of the year. During the summer
months it affords pasturage for large flocks of sheep. It is a vast
interminable _sea of lone land_, over which the eye wanders unceasingly
during the whole of the daylight hours.
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