George Brannon - Brannon\'s Picture of The Isle of Wight
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George Brannon >> Brannon\'s Picture of The Isle of Wight
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BRANNON'S PICTURE OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT;
Or
The Expeditious Traveller's Index to Its Prominent Beauties & Objects
of Interest. Compiled Especially with Reference to Those Numerous
Visitors Who Can Spare but Two or Three Days to Make the Tour of the
Island.
Printed and Published by George Brannon, Wootton, Isle of Wight
[Illustration: The Pulpit Rock, Bonchurch, looking towards Ventnor.]
[Illustration: NORRIS, I.W.]
EXPLANATION.
If nearly FORTY YEARS' RESIDENCE in the Isle of Wight may be allowed in
some degree to qualify an ARTIST for the office of Guide, the Author has
a fair claim to public patronage,--for few could have had better
opportunity of acquiring local information.
He has endeavoured to render THE PICTURE an intelligent _Cicerone_,
without being too garrulous or grandiloquous,--but always attentive to
the stranger, leading him to every remarkable object, and giving just as
much description of each, as would be acceptable to persons enjoying the
full use of their eyes. It affords him, _at first glance_, an INDEX of
what ought to be seen, and _how best seen in the shortest time_, in
every place to which he may be successively conducted. This novelty in
the work will prove very frequently of great utility, especially to
those visitors who have too little time for their trip, and who, for
want of such a laconic memento wherever they go, are known in a thousand
instances to pass by the most interesting objects unnoticed,--not being
aware even of their proximity.
* * * * *
This being the production of the same hand as several other local
works, it is due to the stranger to explain in what respects they
differ:--
I.--THE VECTIS SCENERY is a handsome volume in Royal Quarto,
substantially bound, containing 36 highly finished line-engravings of
all the most celebrated landscapes, accompanied with ample letter-press
descriptions, price L1.5.0.
II.--THE PICTURE differs from the above in being intended for a
_hand-book_, it is in fact a Cicerone, and therefore occasionally dwells
with a degree of minuteness which could be interesting only to a person
actually on the spot; but the "Vectis Scenery" takes the higher rank of
an Exhibitor of picturesque scenes which ask little aid from verbal
explanation, and is entitled to a place on the drawing-room table with
other works of Art. The Engravings in the two publications are quite
different.
III.--The PLEASURE-VISITOR'S COMPANION is a compendium of useful
information, with the different Tours, &c. and Views of the Country
Inns, price 2s., or with Map, 3s.
IV.--The REV. LEGH RICHMOND'S DESCRIPTION of the Island, with
explanatory Notes and illustrative Engravings, price 2s.6d.
V.--A MAP of the Island and the Opposite Coast--with the Tours, &c., in
cover, price 1s.6d.
* * * * *
It were useless to complain of the piracies committed upon the
Author's labors, both literary and pictorial, by parties in London
as well as in the country; but he may be allowed however to remark,
that some of the most common facts and delineations are strangely
perverted from the Truth in their new dress,--however artfully
disguised to prevent the consequences of palpable detection.
In cases even where a professional Author may be engaged by a
publisher on a local work, the time allowed is generally too
limited for acquiring accurate knowledge of his subjects: he must
depend either on prior publications or on his personal intercourse
with the residents, for much of his information. In compiling from
the first of these sources, he is very liable to mis-statement, by
investing everything in a new dress to conceal his piracies; and
the latter source leaves him open to imposition--for much of his
matter will be sheer gossip, partial statements, or unfounded
tradition, which a long experience only could detect, and place in
a proper light.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.--GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
PAGE
Its Peculiar Advantages for a Summer's Excursion, 9
Climate, Situation, and Extent, 15
Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology, 18
Eminent Natives, and Outline of the Local History, 21
CHAPTER II.--THE THREE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, AND THEIR ENVIRONS.
Carisbrooke Castle and Village, 25
Newport and its Environs, 29
East and West Cowes, and their Environs, 34
Objects on the road between Cowes and Ryde, 43
Ryde and its Environs, 45
St. Helen's, Bembridge, Sandown, Brading, &c., 52
CHAPTER III--THE SOUTH-EASTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
_Distinguished for its Romantic Scenery._
Shanklin Chine and Village, 59
Cooke's Castle, and Luccombe Chine, 63
East End, commencement of the Undercliff, 64
Bonchurch, and Ventnor, 65
Appuldurcombe and Godshill, 71
Steephill, and St. Lawrence, 73
The Undercliff, between St. Lawrence and Niton, 76
The New Light-house, and the Sandrock Spring, 79
Blackgang Chine, and St. Catharine's Hill, 81
Wrecks on the Southern Coast, 85
Chale, Gatcombe, Shorwell, Brixton, &c., 87
CHAPTER IV.--THE SOUTH-WESTERN COAST OF THE ISLAND,
_Distinguished for the most Sublime Scenery._
The Road over the Downs to Freshwater, 89
Freshwater Cliffs, Bay, and Caverns, 90
High-down, Main-bench, and Scratchell's Bay, 93
Needle Rocks, Alum Bay, Light-house, &c., 95
Freshwater Village, Yarmouth, Calbourne, &c., 97
Conspicuous Objects on the Hills, 100
Tours through, and Voyage round the Island, 101
Lists of the Inns and Seats. Passage and Conveyance, &c.
* * * * *
LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
PAGE
I--NORRIS CASTLE, _Frontispiece_.
II--PULPIT ROCK, Bonchurch, _Title-page_.
III--CARISBROOKE CASTLE, 24
IV--WEST COWES: the Castle, Parade, &c., 36
V--OSBOURNE, Her Majesty's Marine Residence, 40
VI--Town and Pier of RYDE, 44
VII--View from Bembridge Down, 52
VIII--SHANKLIN Chine; descent to the beach, 60
IX--Shanklin Church, 64
X--COOKE'S CASTLE, _ib._
XI--The ancient Parish-church of BONCHURCH, 68
XII--VENTNOR, near the Church, _ib._
XIII--STEEPHILL Castle and adjacent Coast, 72
XIV--ST. LAWRENCE CHURCH, 76
XV--St. Lawrence Well, _ib._
XVI--The UNDERCLIFF near Mount Cleeves. 80
XVII--The new LIGHT-HOUSE near Niton, _ib._
XVIII--BLACKGANG CHINE, 84
XIX--FRESHWATER BAY, 92
XX--WATCOMBE BAY, _ib._
XXI--SCRATCHELL'S Bay and the Needle Rocks, 96
CHAPTER I.
THE PECULIAR ADVANTAGES OF THE ISLAND AS THE OBJECT OF A SUMMER'S
EXCURSION.
Variety is the characteristic charm of the Isle of Wight; the scenery
being in fact a most happy combination of the grand and romantic, the
sylvan and marine--throughout a close interchange of hills and dales,
intersected by streams and rivers: combining the quiet of rural life
with the fashionable gaiety of a watering-place, or the bustle of a
crowded sea-port. But generally, its landscapes are more distinguished
for beauty than sublimity, and hence the very appropriate designation of
"THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND!" an emphatic compliment cheerfully paid by the
thousands annually visiting its shores for pleasure or for health: and
perhaps there is scarcely another spot in the kingdom, of the same
narrow limits, which can concentrate more of those qualities that at
once charm the eye and animate the soul. Nor should it be overlooked how
large a source of interest is derived from the proximity of those two
celebrated towns, Southampton and Portsmouth: and the beautiful
termination given to most of the open prospects by the retiring
distances on the opposite coast.
----"Intermixture sweet,
Of lawns and groves, of open and retired,
Vales, farms, towns, villas, castles, distant spires.
And hills on hills with ambient clouds enrolled,
In long succession court the lab'ring sight."
But the crowning beauty of the Island is certainly THE SEA! viewed in
all the splendor of its various aspects;--whether under the awful
grandeur of the agitated and boundless _Ocean_,--as a rapid and
magnificent _River_,--or reposing in all the glassy tranquillity of a
spacious land-locked _Bay_:--now of a glowing crimson, and now of the
purest depth of azure: its bosom ever spangled with a thousand moving
and attractive objects of marine life.
To those who have never had the opportunity of viewing the sea except
under the comparatively dreary aspect which it presents from many
unsheltering parts of the southern coast, as for instance Brighton,
where almost the only relief to the monotony of the wide expanse is a
few clumsy fishing boats or dusky colliers, and occasionally the rolling
clouds of smoke from a passing steamer,--it may seem that we are rather
disposed to exaggerate the picture; but not so, as would certainly be
attested by every one who had visited the island: for here the scene is
ever enriched by magnificent SHIPS OF WAR, innumerable merchant-vessels,
and splendid pleasure-yachts, safely lying at anchor or gaily sailing
about in every direction; and what moving object in the world can
surpass, in grandeur, beauty, and interest, a fine ship under full
canvass with a light breeze? Let the reader only imagine how glorious a
sight it must have been, when 200 sail,--line-of-battle-ships, frigates,
and large merchantmen under convoy, would weigh anchor at the same time,
and proceeding on their voyage, _pass round the island_ as it were in
review!--thus affording a spectacle, as they floated
"O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,"
never to be erased from the memory of those who had once the
incomparable pleasure to witness it. True it is, that in these happier
times of peace, such exhibitions are not to be expected: but frequently
even now, very large fleets of merchantmen, and perhaps several
men-of-war, which have put in through distress of weather, or been
detained by contrary winds, will all at the same moment weigh anchor at
the first favorable change. [Footnote: The glories of the olden time
have of late years been frequently revived at the departure of
Experimental and other squadrons rendezvousing at Spithead,--accompanied
as they sometimes are by hundreds of sailing-craft and steamers,
including the beautiful yachts of all the neighbouring clubs.]
We think it ridiculous to attribute qualities to the island (as is
often done,) which it really does not possess: all we contend for is,
that few spots can excel the Wight _altogether in the amount of its_
VARIOUS _attractions_; we mean especially to those parties who can only
snatch occasionally a very brief period for a summer excursion; not only
as regards its _peculiar and acknowledged local advantages_, but equally
so from those adventitious and auxiliary circumstances that are derived
from the present _rail-road_ conveyance from the metropolis: and from
the _shortness_ and _perfect safety_ of the passage across--being little
more than an hour from Southampton, and only half that time from
Portsmouth; the former an important mercantile port and fashionable
watering-place; and the latter, the first naval station in the
kingdom--its marine treasures too thrown open gratuitously to public
inspection: and what curiosity can afford a Briton more gratification,
than to visit such a dock-yard, and pace the deck of the very ship in
which _Victory_ crowned the last moments of the immortal Nelson?
Though the island has to boast of many passages of highly romantic and
_brilliant_ scenery, yet the predominant character of its landscapes is,
as was hinted above, calculated to amuse, to delight, and promote
_cheerfulness_, rather than to astonish or impress the spectator with
feelings of awe by their stupendous grandeur; circumstances which,
combined with its salubrity of climate, render it a most desirable
retreat to the valetudinarian and nervous invalid: indeed all the
alterations which have latterly been made, or are now in progress, tend
to soften, embellish, and in point of convenience to improve the face of
the country. On this subject however it will be a question with many
persons of good taste, whether any of these artificial operations are
really improvements upon the native character of the island. An artist
would most probably decide in the negative: but we know there are many
nevertheless, who consider that whatever deterioration the island may
experience in some of her more wild and romantic features, is amply
compensated by the spread of cultivation and rural decoration, by the
increased facilities of travelling, and the multiplied means of
enjoyment now afforded to the pleasure-tourist.
* * * * *
A few particulars will suffice for the present, to prove the above
assertions, and may perhaps be found
USEFUL HINTS TO STRANGERS
Purposing a visit to the shores of the Garden of England. They may
arrange to breakfast comfortably at the usual hour in London--start by
the rail-road, and reach either of the above ports at noon, or even
earlier--steam-packets are in readiness to convey the passengers across,
and stage-coaches and other vehicles await their arrival at Cowes and
Ryde: our friends may then _ride round one-half_ of the island, and
return the next, or even _the same night!_ but this of course is
abridging the affair a little too much. But allow a full week, and that
will suffice to render it a very pleasant trip. If, for example, you
come to Southampton, sleep there, or at least tarry a few hours in the
examination of it: then take the last steamer to Cowes or Ryde, and
sleep there the first night: next morning commence the regular Tour of
three days, dining and sleeping twice or thrice at one or other of the
inns situated on the rocky side of the island, to enjoy at the same time
the more unusual feast of a wide prospect of the sea, and the music of
the foaming breakers thundering on the beach below. Supposing you start
from Cowes, as being opposite Southampton, the Route will bring you
round to Ryde; where you cross to Portsmouth, and having gone over the
fortifications, the dock-yard, and Nelson's ship, return by one or other
of the rail-roads. But if you arrive by Portsmouth and Ryde, then return
_via_ Cowes and 'Hampton.--For the details of the several routes, the
reader is of course referred to the chapter "Tours," at the end of the
Work.
That part of the island immediately opposite Hampshire is generally
well-wooded, with an easy descent to the shore--populous and busy, as
might be expected from the two considerable watering-places before
named, and several excellent harbors. But the south side (familiarly
called _the Back of the Island_,) being washed by the impetuous tides of
the ocean, presents a very different aspect, showing the resistless
progress of the waves:--and hence perpendicular cliffs of great
altitude, precipitous slopes constantly detaching large masses of earth
and rocks, and all the picturesque confusion produced by successive
landslips: here therefore the scenery is variously characterized by
dreary devastation, romantic beauty, or sublime splendor of effect. But
not so of _the Interior_ of the island, which presents the softer
pictures of pastoral and rural life: for ...
"Creation's mildest charms are here combined,"
enlivened by several splendid mansions, with their parks and groves. The
churches are numerous: some "embosomed soft in trees," and others
picturesquely seated on commanding knolls: and many of the highest hills
are adorned by a light-house or signal-station--some lofty obelisk,
tower, or mill; so that in every direction a conspicuous object gives an
interest and discriminative identity to those broad features of scenery,
which would otherwise be perfectly tame and monotonous.
* * * * *
_Situation, Extent, Climate, &c._
The Isle of Wight extends from east to west 23 miles, by about 14 from
north to south (being very nearly the figure of a lozenge),
circumscribes at least 60 miles, and contains upwards of 100,000 acres.
It is separated from the Hampshire coast by a strait called the SOLENT
SEA, varying from three to seven miles in width: and bounded by the
British Channel on the south--the nearest part of the French coast being
Cherbourg (18 leagues distant), which is said to have been seen from the
hills of Freshwater, &c. The extent of the English coast visible in
clear weather is above 100 miles, from Beachy Head in Sussex, to the
Isle of Portland in Dorset.
THE CLIMATE.--The purity of the air was always acknowledged by those who
ever visited the island owing to the dry and highly cultivated face of
the country: but it was left to an eminent Physician, Dr. James Clarke,
to give due celebrity to the unrivaled salubrity of the climate:--
"The Island, from the variety which it presents in point of elevation,
soil, and aspect, and from the configuration of its hills and shores,
possesses several peculiarities of climate and situation, which render
it a very favorable and commodious residence throughout the year, for a
large class of invalids. On this account, the Isle of Wight claims our
particular attention, as it comprehends within itself advantages which
are of great value to the delicate invalid, and to obtain which, in
almost any other part of England, he would require to make a
considerable journey." And he further remarks, that "the Undercliff bids
fair to exceed all other winter residences in this country, and the
island will have added to its title of the Garden of England, that of
the BRITISH MADEIRA."
The classical designation of the island is VECTA or VECTIS: but its
modern name is derived from Wect, With, or Wict, as it is found
variously written in Doomsday Book.
Some writers have supposed the island to have been once connected
with the mainland by an isthmus stretching from Gurnet, near Cowes,
to Leap, on the Hampshire roast; but nothing decisive has yet been
advanced in support of this strange hypothesis.
The surface of the island presents a constant succession of valley and
eminence--the two principal chains of hills being ... a range of chalk
downs of a smooth rounded shape, and from 500 to 700 feet high, that
stretch lengthways through the middle of the island, abutting the ocean
at Freshwater on the west, and Bembridge on the east:-and a still
loftier range, variously composed of chalk, firestone, &c., that skirts
the south-eastern coast from Shanklin Down to St. Catharine's (the
latter 830 feet in height,) and whose broken flank on the sea-side forms
the celebrated and romantic region of the UNDERCLIFF.
The principal streams in the Isle of Wight navigable for marine craft
are the Rivers Medina and Yar, and the Creeks of Newtown and
Wootton.--The Medina, whose source is in the south, and which joins the
sea at Cowes, divides the island into two hundreds of nearly equal
extent, respectively called the East and West Medene; the first
comprising 14, the latter 16 parishes.
The population of the island has doubled since 1802, and now exceeds
45,000. No manufacture of any consequence is carried on (with the
exception of the lace-factory near Newport,) Corn being the staple
article of trade,--for which there are about 42 mills, nearly all of
them worked by water.
Almost encompassed by formidable rocks and shelves, few parts of the
English coast are more dangerous to ships driving in a storm. The most
dreaded parts are the Needles and Shingles, at the western point;
Rocken-end Race at the south, and Bembridge Ledge at the eastern
extremity: few winters pass without the melancholy catastrophe of
shipwreck; though the danger is now of course diminished by the
establishment of Light-houses--especially of the new one near
Niton.--Owing to this cause, and to the precipitous nature of the coast
itself, the island presents few points favorable to an enemy's landing,
and even those were for the most part fortified by order of Henry VIII:
The forts of Sandown, Cowes, and Yarmouth still remain; and though they
might be of little use in the present state of military science, the
presence of "England's wooden walls" at the stations of Spithead and St.
Helen's, renders all local defences needless.
_Geology, Agriculture, and Zoology_.
The island presents many rare geological phenomena: and from its
smallness, easy access, and the various nature of its coasts, offers an
admirable field for scientific investigation.
One peculiarity deserves to be particularly noticed; namely, the
extraordinary state in which the FLINTS are found in the great range of
chalk hills,--for all those in regular beds, are broken into pieces in
every direction, from two or three inches long, to an almost impalpable
powder; and yet show no other indication of their fracture than very
fine lines, until the investing chalk be removed, when they fall at once
to pieces! But the separate flints or nodules in the body of the chalk
strata are not so: which led the late Sir H. Englefield to conjecture,
that the phenomenon was caused in the moment of the immense concussion
which subverted the whole mass of strata, and placed them in their
present nearly vertical position.
Another interesting circumstance in the geological structure of the Isle
of Wight, is a series of strata, _vertical_ or highly inclined, which
run across the middle of it from east to west; while the strata on each
side are _horizontal_; they consist of ... a very thick stratum of clay
and sand (observable at Alum Bay), flinty chalk, chalk without flints,
chalk-marle, green sandstone with lime-stone and chert, dark-grey marle,
and ferruginous sand.
A PROGRESSIVE CHANGE is evidently taking place in the boundary line of
the coast--the sea making considerable invasions on the south side,
which is exposed to the resistless currents of the ocean; while on the
north it is found to be more gradually receding, from the accumulation
of sand and shingle drifted and deposited by the less impetuous tides of
the Solent Channel.--About Brixton, for instance, between Blackgang
Chine and the Freshwater Cliffs, the loss of land has been estimated
(from the successive removals of paths and hedges,) to exceed 200 feet
in breadth in less than a century; while in the neighbourhood of Ryde it
is known that the bed of a valley formerly accessible to the sea is now
rather above its highest level; and even in 1760, when Fielding visited
the island, the coast there is described by him as a wide disgusting
waste of mud, which is now covered with an increasing layer of sand,
sufficiently firm to bear wheel-carriages; and no doubt but in process
of time there will be a great accession to the beach, from the constant
though slow operation of the same causes--denuding on the one side, and
reciprocally accumulating on the other.
Good Stone of various qualities is found in most parts of the island:
and with that procured from the quarries of Binstead, the body of
Winchester Cathedral was built. All the houses along the Undercliff are
constructed with a beautiful kind of freestone procured on the spot.
Extensive pits are worked in the downs for the chalk, which is used
for manure, burning into lime, &c. A stratum of coals was formerly
believed to run through the central downs, and Sir Rt. Worsley
actually sunk a shaft for it near Bembridge; his labors however
were but poorly rewarded. Veins of coarse iron ore have also
appeared in some parts of the island.
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