J. Randall - Handbook to the Severn Valley Railway
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J. Randall >> Handbook to the Severn Valley Railway
HANDBOOK TO THE SEVERN VALLEY RAILWAY
Illustrative and Descriptive of Places along the Line,
FROM
WORCESTER TO SHREWSBURY.
BY J. RANDALL, F.G.S.,
AUTHOR OF "SEVERN VALLEY," ETC.
[Title page illustration: title.jpg]
LEGEND OF THE SEVERN, WYE, AND RHEIDOL.
(_See Illustration on the Cover_.)
The Welsh are justly proud of their hills and their rivers; they
frequently personify both, and attribute to them characters corresponding
with their peculiar features. Of the Severn, the Wye, and the Rheidol,
they have an apologue, intended to convey an idea of their comparative
length, and also of the character of the districts through which they
flow. It is called "The Three Sisters," and in substance is as
follows:--In some primitive period of the earth's history, Father
Plinlimmon promised to these nymphs of the mountain as much territory as
they could compass in a day's journey to the sea, by way of dowry upon
their alliance with certain marine deities they should meet there. Sabra,
goddess of the Severn, being a prudent, well-conducted maiden, rose with
the first streak of morning dawn, and, descending the eastern side of the
hill, made choice of the most fertile valleys, whilst as yet her sisters
slept. Vaga, goddess of the Wye, rose next, and, making all haste to
perform her task, took a shorter course, by which means she joined her
sister ere she reached the sea. The goddess Rhea, old Plinlimmon's pet,
woke not till roused by her father's chiding; but by bounding down the
side of the mountain, and selecting the shortest course of all, she
managed to reach her destination first. Thus the Cymric proverb, "There
is no impossibility to the maiden who hath a fortune to lose or a husband
to win."
THE SEVERN VALLEY RAILWAY.
The Severn, like other English rivers, may be said to have been the
pioneer of railways along its banks: first, in having done much to
correct the inequalities of the surface; secondly, in having indicated
the direction in which the traffic flowed; so that early in the history
of railway enterprise eminent engineers, like the late Robert Stephenson,
saw the desirability of following its course, and thus meeting the wants
of towns that had grown into importance upon its banks, wants which the
river itself was unable to supply. In 1846 the route was finally
surveyed by Robert Nicholson, with a view to a through traffic in
connection with other railways. The scheme met with opposition from
advocates of rival lines. Ultimately, however, the Bill passed the
committees of the two Houses, and the promoters were successful, whilst
the expenses of counsel and witnesses were enormous. The original
estimate for the line was 600,000 pounds: 110,000 pounds for land, and
490,000 pounds for works. 8,500 pounds was down for a girder bridge at
Arley, 8,000 pounds for one near Quatford, 9,000 pounds for one above
Bridgnorth, and 10,000 pounds for one at Shrewsbury. The two bridges
near Bridgnorth and the one near Shrewsbury were abandoned, and a
considerable saving was effected by shortening the line at Hartlebury, by
a junction, with the Oxford, Wolverhampton, and Worcester higher up than
was originally intended. The estimated cost of the works, in consequence
of these reductions, and of the determination of the company to make it a
single line, was thus reduced to nearly one-half the original sum.
Although the Severn Valley Railway joins the Main Trunk line at
Hartlebury, Worcester is regarded as its proper terminus; and at that
point we commence our description.
WORCESTER.
[Illustration of Worcester: 4.jpg]
Population, 31,123. Returns two Members to Parliament
Market days--Wednesdays and Saturdays Fair days--Saturday before Palm
Sunday, Saturday before Easter Day, August 15th, September 19th, and
first Monday in December.
Our engraving represents the "faithful city" as it appears from a point
between the bridges, with the Cathedral rising from an eminence above the
river. The venerable pile was raised by the brave and pious bishop
Wulstan, upon the site of an earlier edifice, formerly the church of a
priory founded by one of the Saxon kings. Recent restorations, carried
on under the direction of the Dean and Chapter, have led to the
correction of defects, resulting from time, and ignorance on the part of
past builders, and have disclosed features which add much to the grandeur
of the edifice; so that in addition to impressions its magnificence
creates upon the mind of the general visitor, it now affords a rich treat
to all who delight to trace the boundary lines of ecclesiastical
architecture, as they approach or recede from the present time. First,
there is the Norman or Romanesque of the period of its erection, of which
the crypt and part of the central transept are specimens; secondly, the
First Pointed or Early English, as seen in the eastern transept; thirdly,
the Middle Pointed or Decorated, as in the tower, guesten hall, and
refectory; and, fourthly, the Third Pointed or Perpendicular, as in the
north porch, in the cloisters, and Prince Arthur's Chapel. Amongst
ancient mural monuments, covering the dust or commemorating the virtues
of the great, will be found King John's tomb, in the centre of the choir;
one in white marble of Prince Arthur; and those of bishops Sylvester,
Gauden, Stillingfleet, Thornborough, Parry, and Hough, the latter a _chef
d'oeuvre_ of Roubilliac's; also that of Judge Lyttleton, "the father of
English law;" and others of men renowned for learning, piety, or bravery.
Near this fine old ecclesiastical edifice once stood the feudal
stronghold that protected it, the only remaining portion of which is a
crumbling mass of stone known as Edgar's Tower. From standing in the
college precincts it is sometimes mistaken for a portion of the
cathedral; it is, however, a relic of the old castle, the keep of which
rested on a mound of sand and gravel, which was found to contain, upon
its removal in 1833, Roman remains of the reigns of Augustus, Nero,
Vespasian, and Constantine. In High Street, leading from the Cathedral
to the Cross, is the Guildhall, erected from a design by a pupil of the
great Sir Christopher Wren, and considered to be one of the most handsome
brick-fronted structures in the kingdom. It is decorated with statues of
Charles I., Charles II., Queen Anne, and with emblematic figures of
Justice, Peace, Labour, &c.; whilst over the doorway is the city coat of
arms, with the motto, "_Floreat semper fidelis civitas_." The lower hall
contains a collection of interesting specimens of ancient armour, gleaned
from the battlefields of Worcester, and one of those quaint old
instruments of punishment formerly used for scolds, called a "brank." In
the municipal hall, on the second floor, is a portrait of George III.,
who presented it to the inhabitants, and others of citizens who have done
good service to the town, or in some way distinguished themselves, the
last added being that of Alderman Padmore, one of the members for the
city.
The churches are fifteen in number, some being ancient edifices, others
recent erections built on the sites of older structures, whilst a few are
copies of the originals. There are nearly as many dissenting and other
chapels, several of which are handsome specimens of modern architectural
skill. Among instances of domestic architecture of past centuries may be
mentioned, "The Old House" in "New Street," from which Charles II.
escaped after the battle of Worcester. It was the house also in which
Judge Berkeley was born, and has over the door the inscription, "Love God
(W. B. 1557, R. D), Honor the King."
Worcester is rich in schools, almshouses, and institutions, whose united
incomes, representing a total of 4,000 pounds, speak much for the public
spirit and large-hearted benevolence of the inhabitants.
The Museum and Natural History Society, in Foregate Street, to which
visitors are admitted on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, {6} with its
collection of antiquities, fossils, and objects of natural history,
should be visited. Also, the Arboretum and Public Pleasure Grounds, near
Sansome Walk, where fetes are given and bands frequently play. The
grounds are tastefully laid out, portions being set apart for games of
archery, cricket, bowls, and quoits. The usual admission fee is
sixpence, but on Mondays they are free to the inhabitants.
In describing Worcester it would be unpardonable not to allude to its
hops, from 2,000 to 3,000 pockets of which, it is said, not unfrequently
change hands, in the market in the Foregate, during the season.
Glove making also is still one of the staple trades, nearly half a
million being annually manufactured by Messrs. Dent and others.
Worcester is celebrated for Porcelain of a very superior kind; and
facilities are afforded to strangers visiting the manufactory, both in
Diglis, and in Lowesmoor. The productions of the former are highly
esteemed by connoisseurs. The works have the good fortune to receive
distinguished and even royal patronage; and the show-rooms form one of
the attractions of the city.
The Iron trade, so far as regards the manufacture of bridges, machinery,
and general castings, notwithstanding the distance from the iron making
districts, is well represented by the Vulcan Works, and those of Messrs.
Padmore and Hardy. Other establishments on a large scale have sprung
into existence in the city and its suburbs, in which chemistry and
machinery, singly or combined, produce results the most astounding. Among
them are those of Hill, Evans, and Co., where the visitor wanders amidst
enormous vats, from which as many as 1,208,600 gallons of vinegar have
been produced in a single year; and those of Lewis, Watkins, and Co.,
where a large portion of the vinegar is used in preparing pickles, and
where hundreds of tons of preserved fruits and jam are annually produced
for sale. There are also those of the well-known firm of Lea and Perrin;
the chemical works of Webb; the extensive carriage manufactory of
McNaught and Smith, and others upon which space forbids us to dwell.
[Old waterworks: 7.jpg]
The Severn supplies the inhabitants with water, which is purified by
means of extensive filter-beds at the upper end of Pitchcroft, and then
thrown by machinery to the top of Rainbow Hill, a position sufficiently
elevated to ensure its distribution over the upper stories of the highest
houses. The "Old Waterworks" remain, and, as will be seen from our
sketch, form a picturesque object in the landscape. The Severn is,
however, no longer the fast-flowing stream poets have described it, but
what it has lost in speed it has gained in depth, breadth, and majesty;
the locks and weirs at Diglis--the former two abreast, and the latter
stretching 400 feet across the stream--giving to it the aspect of a lake,
an aspect aided by the appearance upon its surface of a number of swans.
Its contrast with itself, whilst yet in its rocky cradle on Plinlimmon,
will be seen from the accompanying sketch of _Blaen Hafren_, or the "Head
of the River," two miles from its source. Anglers will find pleasant
spots at which to indulge in the "gentle art," near Henwick, where the
old Worcester monks had weirs; also near Bevere Island, and Holt Castle;
at the confluence of the Severn with the Teme (two miles
[Blaen Hafren: 8.jpg]
below Worcester), thence to the tail of Kempsey Lake; and still better
near the Rhydd (the seat of Sir E. A. H. Lechmere, Bart.). Worcester is
surrounded by very many spots of interest to lovers of natural scenery,
to archaeologists, botanists, and geologists. Among those within easy
reach, and deserving of special notice, may be mentioned Croome Court,
the seat of the Earl of Coventry (nine miles); and Witley Court, backed
by the Abberley and Woodbury hills, (ten miles); also Madresfield Court,
the seat of the Earl of Beauchamp (six miles); Cotheridge Court, the seat
of W. Berkeley, Esq. (four miles); and Strensham village, the birthplace
of Butler, the author of "Hudibras" (three miles from Duffore station, on
the Bristol line). Leaving Worcester at Shrub Hill--a portion of a long
natural terrace commanding pleasing views of the city and of the Malvern
range of hills--we pass the cemetery; then Hindlip Hall, the residence of
Henry Alsop, Esq., a handsome modern mansion standing in the midst of a
very pleasant country on the left, and approached by an avenue of trees
nearly a mile in length. The "Old Hall," upon the site of which the
present one is built, was constructed by some quaint architect having
less peaceful times in view, who contrived numerous secret chambers, of
which the conspirators Garnet and Oldcorn are known to have availed
themselves. Here also lived the sister of Lord Monteagle, whose letter
to her brother is said to have led to the discovery of Gunpowder Plot.
Near the hall is the old ivy-towered church of the hamlet, with its
rustic graveyard. At a distance of six miles from Worcester is the
borough town of
DROITWICH.
Population, 3,123
Market day--Friday. Fairs--Friday in Easter week, June 18th, September
24th, and December 18th.
The town, which lies beneath the embankment of the railway, in the valley
of the river Salwarp, on the right, is on weekdays so enveloped in steam,
that little beyond its stacks, and the murky tower of St. Andrew's
Church, are seen. Its staple trade is salt, for the export of which the
canal, the Severn, and modern railways offer great facilities. From
early times, the subterranean river beneath the town has yielded an
uninterrupted supply of the richest brine in Europe; and it is curious to
observe how the vacuum created by the amount raised has caused the ground
to collapse and crack, as shown by the decrepit state of the buildings,
many of which are broken-backed, twisted, and contorted--although the
intermediate earth is about 200 feet in thickness. The place, therefore,
has a sort of downcast look, and the streets have a melancholy
appearance; whilst the sheds of the brine works, made to appear more
murky by contrast with heaps of white salt refuse, suggest the thought
that the town has gone into mourning. Exception must be taken to St.
Peter's Church, which stands outside the town, and is surrounded by green
fields, with no building near, except an exceedingly dilapidated half-
timbered mansion, the property of Lord Somers. Tradition says that this
church once adjoined the town, but that the latter shifted in the
direction of the springs; if so, the injunction over the doorway, to
"Remember Lot's wife," seems a strange rebuke, if intended for the
inhabitants. The building has many features of interest, the Norman, the
Transition, and subsequent styles of architectural decoration being
observable.
[Westwood house: 10.jpg]
The old town has an interesting charity, founded by Lord Coventry, for
the support of poor people, and the education of poor children. The
almshouses, which have recently been rebuilt, and are eighteen in number,
are commodious and convenient, with garden plots at the back; whilst the
inmates have 3_s_. 6_d_. per week, or 5_s_. if upwards of 70 years of
age, beside clothing. Connected with these is an infirmary, in which at
the time of our visit were three old ladies, who looked particularly
clean and comfortable, and whose ages were respectively 83, 89, and 93.
On a red marlstone cliff, {11} rising above the river Salwarp, and
overlooking the town of Droitwich, is the church of Dodderhill, belonging
to the parish of that name. It gave shelter to the Royalists during the
civil wars, and suffered much from an attack of the Parliamentary forces,
who battered down its nave and tower. The former has never been rebuilt,
and the latter, instead of being placed in the position it formerly held,
has been made to fill up the south transept.
On the left of the line is the seat of Sir John Packington, the present
member for Droitwich. It may be reached from the town by a pleasant
walk; first by the side of the canal and river, and then through the
park. Westwood was given by Henry VIII. to an ancestor of the present
baronet, in consequence of his residence at Hampton Lovett having been
injured during the civil wars; and the house is one of the most
interesting specimens of Elizabethan architecture in the kingdom. The
railway passes Hampton Lovett church, near which are neat model cottages
erected by Sir John; and at a distance of eleven miles from Worcester we
arrive at
HARTLEBURY.
Hartlebury, which is about a mile from the station, has been for a
thousand years the residence of the bishops of Worcester; the old castle
having remained entire until the middle of the 17th century, when, from
having given shelter to the Royalists, it became a heap of ruins, and the
present palace was erected in its stead. It is approached by a noble
avenue of limes, and is surrounded by pleasure-gardens, fashioned out of
its ancient moat, one portion of which is still a quiet lake. It has a
park with well-timbered tracts adjoining, one of which is called the
Bishop's Wood, and near which is the famous Mitre Oak.
STOURPORT
Derives its name from the great basins constructed by Brindley upon the
canal, and also from the river Stour, which here enters the Severn. The
advantages of position led to the erection of large manufacturing
establishments on the spot. Steam has been brought to aid the Stour,
whose waters are pounded back to create a capital of force to turn great
wheels that spin, and weave, and grind; whilst iron works, vinegar works,
and tan works, upon a large scale, have also sprung into existence. On
the opposite bank of the Severn, about three-quarters of a mile from
Stourport, is Arley Kings, or Lower Arley; and about a mile lower down
the river is Redstone Cliff, in which is the famous hermitage of Layamon,
a monkish historian of the 13th century, who is said to have composed a
"Chronicle of Britain," embracing that mythical period extending from
Brute to Cadwallader.
On leaving Stourport, the traveller passes Burlish Common, and plunging
into a deep cutting, terminated by a dark tunnel, emerges in sight of the
little town of
BEWDLEY.
Population, 2,900.
Market day--Saturday. Fair days--Last Tuesday in February, April 23rd,
the Monday before St. Ann's, second Tuesday in October, and December
11th.
Principal Hotels--The George, and the Wheatsheaf.
Bewdley is an ancient borough town, corporate and parliamentary,
returning one member. The place long ago obtained the appellation
"beautiful." Leland says, "because of its present site men first began
to resort there;" adding, "the towne itself of Bewdley is sett on the
side of a hille, so comely that a man cannot wishe to see a towne better.
It riseth from Severne banke by east, upon the hille by west, so that a
man standing on the hille _trans-pontem_ by east may discern almoste
every house in the towne; and att the rising of the sun from east, the
whole towne glittereth, being all of new building, as it were of gould."
Bewdley has been said to resemble the letter Y in form--the foot in the
direction of the river being more modern, and the extremities stretching
out against the hills the more ancient, portions. It was privileged as a
place of sanctuary when Wyre Forest was infested by men who lived merry
lives, and who did not refuse to shed their brothers' blood. It had the
privilege of taxing traders upon the Severn, as appears from a petition
presented by "the men of Bristowe and Gloucester" in the reign of Henry
IV., praying for exemption. It obtained its charter of incorporation
from Edward IV., and one granting the elective franchise from James I.
[Bewdley: 13.jpg]
Wribbenhall, on the same side the river as the station, is a hamlet
belonging to Kidderminster, from which town it is distant about three
miles. Bewdley and Wribbenhall are surrounded by pleasant spots, not a
few of which are occupied by mansions, handsome villas, and gentlemen's
seats, seen from the line.
Winterdyne is one of these; from dark rocks above the Severn it overlooks
the valley, and is surrounded by walks and grounds commanding magnificent
prospects, the one from the Fort being perhaps the most romantic. Lovers
of quiet rambles, anglers, or botanists, would do well to take up their
quarters at Bewdley, as a centre from which to explore the neighbourhood.
There are few more charming spots than Ribbesford, a mile lower down the
river; it is a sylvan bit of landscape, with grassy flats and weathered
cliffs, the latter, rising abruptly from the stream, being delicately
tinted into harmony with the boles, and foliage of the trees above them.
Opposite is Burlish Deep, noted for its pike.
[Pike: 14.jpg]
As at Worcester, the Severn here is a quiet, slow-flowing river. From
Gloucester to Bewdley the old gravelly fords and sandy shallows have
disappeared, and the "gentle art" has had to adapt itself to these
changes; fish once familiar to anglers are now strangers, rarely, if ever
seen on this side Gloucester; but the regulations enforced by the Severn
Fisheries Commission, and the vigilance of local associations, will, it
is hoped, soon be the means of repeopling the Severn with those members
of the finny tribe once common to its waters. Steam-tugs and trows,
propelled by screw or paddle, now navigate the river, each with a dozen
old-fashioned barges at its stern; but this portion of the Severn being
comparatively free, it is a favourite breeding place with pike, who for
reproductive purposes seek the stillest portions of the stream. Dowles
Ford, at the mouth of the brook of that name, which enters the river a
little above Bewdley, also Laxlane Ford, and Folly's Ford, are each
famous for their trout.
Leaving Bewdley, we pass the line of railway to Tenbury, but confine
ourselves to the Valley of the Severn, along which the river and the rail
are now close companions nearly all the way to Shrewsbury. The elevation
of the embankment above the river affords glimpses of Bewdley Forest, or,
as Drayton calls it, the Stately Wyre.
"These scenes are desert now and bare,
Where nourished once a forest fair;
When these waste glens with copse were lined,
And peopled with the hart and hind."
But portions of the district still are wooded, affording famous fields
for botanists. Seckley Wood comes down to meet the bold projecting rocks
above the river; and we have Eyemoor Wood and others right and left on
approaching Upper or Over Arley.
ARLEY,
Twenty miles from Worcester, is one of the sweetest little villages along
the line. Its ferry on the river, its timbered cottages, partially
concealed in green indentations of the hill, its grey church tower, and
those of the castle near, are a picture of themselves; but when showers
of blossoms crown the orchard trees in spring, or ruddy fruits hang ripe
in autumn, the scene is more enchanting still.
The castle tower is 120 feet in height, and commands an extensive sweep
of country, through which the Severn in the distance winds its way, in
and out, like a silver thread. The gardens and grounds contain rare
shrubs and trees, imported by the late Earl Mountnorris; to visit which
R. Woodward, Esq., the present proprietor, like the late earl, very
rarely refuses his permission.
The railway having crossed the Severn by the Victoria Bridge, an iron
structure, 200 feet in span, now continues its course along the right
bank of the stream, disclosing glimpses now and then of gentle sweeps and
undulating lines of wood and field, where quiet tones of light and shade,
with sweet harmonious tints, refresh and please. Wandering at its own
sweet will, the river here goes freely on its way, bubbling and brawling
at the fords, gathering itself up into deep, dark lakes carved out of the
softer rocks over which it flows, or dividing to embrace some
willow-covered island in its course. Between Arley and Bewdley it is
well stocked with grayling, dace, and that king of Severn fish, the
salmon which is often taken hero; also with that "queen of fresh-water
fish" the carp, speaking of which an old distich says:--
"Hops and turkeys, carps and beer,
Came into England all in one year."
Like pike, they are long-lived; referring to which, Ben Jonson says:--
"Fat, _aged carps_, that run into thy net,
And pikes, now weary their own kind to eat."
During the winter months carp are caught in broad, quiet parts of the
river; in summer, in holes and reaches, under hollow banks, and near beds
of weeds or flags. All kinds of bait are recommended, but a well-scoured
worm is often best.
[Crap: 16.jpg]
HIGHLEY,
Or Higley, as it is commonly called, is two and a half miles from Arley.
The village is situated high upon the hill, and consists of scattered
cottages, with a sprinkling of goodly houses, some half timbered, after
the quaint fashion of former times. The church has an ancient chancel
window, and in the graveyard is an old cross, elaborately carved in
freestone, a material found very extensively in the neighbourhood.
Highley was an old Saxon manor, which, with Chetton, belonged to the
widow of Leofric--Godiva, of Coventry celebrity. Kinlet, four miles
distant, occupies a picturesque eminence of a horse-shoe form; the church
is an ancient structure, containing noble altar tombs, one of which has a
rich canopy, with the figure of a knight and lady kneeling.