James Chalmers - Adventures in New Guinea

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THE R. T. S. LIBRARY--ILLUSTRATED

ADVENTURES IN NEW GUINEA
BY
JAMES CHALMERS
OF PORT MORESBY

WITH SIX ILLUSTRATIONS

THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY
56, PATERNOSTER ROW; 65, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD;
AND 164, PICCADILLY
1886.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

[Port Moresby: title.jpg]

INTRODUCTION.

Public attention has been repeatedly and prominently directed to New
Guinea during the last few months. The name often appears in our
newspapers and missionary reports, and bids fair to take a somewhat
prominent place in our blue-books. Yet very few general readers possess
accurate information about the island itself, about the work of English
missionaries there, or about the part New Guinea seems destined to play
in Australian politics. Hence a brief sketch indicating the present
state of knowledge on these points will be a fitting introduction to the
narratives of exploration, of adventure, and of Christian work contained
in this volume.

New Guinea, if we may take Australia as a continent, is the largest
island in the world, being, roughly speaking, about 1400 miles long, and
490 broad at its widest point. Its northernmost coast nearly touches the
equator, and its southernmost stretches down to 11 degrees south
latitude. Little more than the fringe or coastline of the island has
been at all carefully explored, but it is known to possess magnificent
mountain ranges, vast stretches of beautiful scenery, much land that is
fruitful, even under native cultivation, and mighty rivers that take
their rise far inland. Its savage inhabitants have aroused powerfully
the interest and sympathy alike of Christian Polynesians and English
missionaries, who, taking their lives in their hands, have, in not a few
instances, laid them down in the effort to win New Guinea for Christ.

At some remote period of the past, New Guinea, in all probability, formed
a part of Australia. Torres Strait itself is only about sixty miles
wide; the water is shallow; shoals and reefs abound, giving the sailor
who threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the impression that he
is sailing over what was once solid earth.

The first European sailor who sighted the island was D'Abreu, in 1511;
the honour of being first to land belongs most probably to the Portuguese
explorer, Don Jorge De Meneses, in 1526, on his way from Malacca to the
Moluccas.

Into the somewhat intricate history of the connection of the Dutch with
the north-west coast of New Guinea we cannot here enter. As suzerain
nominally under the Sultan of Tidore, they claim possession of the
western part of the island as far east as Lat. 141 degrees 47' E. The
trade they carry on is said to be worth about 20,000_l_. a year. Dutch
missionaries have for many years been stationed around the coast of
Geelvink Bay.

In 1770, Captain Cook visited the south-west coast, and in 1775, an
English officer, Forrest by name, spent some months on the north-east
coast in search of spices. In 1793, New Guinea was annexed by two of the
East India Company's commanders, and an island in Geelvink Bay, Manasvari
by name, was for a time held by their troops.

Partial surveys of the south coast were made in 1845 by Captain
Blackwood, who discovered the Fly River; by Lieutenant Yule, in 1846, who
journeyed east as far as the island to which he has given his name; and
in 1848 by Captain Owen Stanley, who made a fairly accurate survey of the
south-east coast.

The most important survey work along the coast of New Guinea was done in
1873 by H.M. ship _Basilisk_, under the command of Captain Moresby. He
discovered the now-famous harbour, Port Moresby; he laid down the true
eastern coastline of the island, discovering the China Straits, and
exploring the north-east coast as far west as Huon Gulf.

In many parts of the world Christian missionaries have been the first to
get on friendly terms with the natives, and thus to pave the way for
developing the resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitants
in the paths of progress and civilization. Pre-eminently has this been
the case in South-eastern New Guinea. White men had landed before them,
it is true; but for the most part only to benefit themselves, and not
unfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them into slavery.
Christianity has won great victories in Polynesia, but no part of the
globe has witnessed fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on the
part of white men towards savage races.

The history of the work done by members of the London Missionary Society
is already a long one. As far back as 1871, the Revs. A. W. Murray and
S. McFarlane sailed from Mare, one of the Loyalty Islands, with eight
native teachers, inhabitants of that group, with whom to begin the
campaign against sin, superstition, and savagery in New Guinea. The
first station occupied was Darnley Island, and Mr. Murray gives an
incident that well illustrates the spirit in which these men, themselves
trophies of missionary success, entered upon their work. Speaking about
another island, the natives, in the hope of intimidating the teachers,
said, "There are alligators there, and snakes, and centipedes." "Hold,"
said the teacher, "are there men there?" "Oh yes," was the reply, "there
are men; but they are such dreadful savages that it is no use your
thinking of living among them." "That will do," replied the teacher.
"Wherever there are men, missionaries are bound to go." Teachers were
stationed at the islands of Tauan and Sabaii. Later on, Yule Island and
Redscar Bay were visited, and the missionaries returned to Lifu.

In 1872, Mr. Murray returned in the _John Williams_ with thirteen
additional teachers, and for the next two years superintended the mission
from Cape York. In 1874, he was joined by the Revs. S. McFarlane and W.
G. Lawes--who have both ever since that time laboured hard and
successfully on behalf of the natives--and the steamer _Ellengowan_ was
placed at the service of the mission by the liberality of the late Miss
Baxter, of Dundee. The native teachers experienced many vicissitudes.
Some died from inability to stand the climate, some were massacred by the
men they were striving to bless; but the gaps were filled up as speedily
as possible, and the map recently issued (Jan. 1885) by the Directors of
the Society shows that on the south-eastern coast of New Guinea, from
Motumotu to East Cape, no less than _thirty-two native teachers_, some of
them New Guinea converts, are now toiling in the service of the Gospel.

In 1877, the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission, and it is hardly too
much to say that his arrival formed an epoch in its history. He is
wonderfully equipped for the work to which he has, under God's
Providence, put his hand, and is the white man best known to all the
natives along the south coast. From the first he has gone among them
unarmed, and though not unfrequently in imminent peril, has been
marvellously preserved. He has combined the qualities of missionary and
explorer in a very high degree, and while beloved as "Tamate" (Teacher)
by the natives, has added enormously to the stock of our geographical
knowledge of New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with the ways
of thinking, the habits, superstitions, and mode of life of the various
tribes of natives.

Notwithstanding various expensive expeditions for the exploration of New
Guinea, he has travelled the farthest yet into the interior. He has been
as far as Lat. S. 9 degrees 2' and Long. E. 147 degrees 42.5'. The
farthest point reached by Captain Armit was about Lat. S. 9 degrees 35'
and Long. E. 147 degrees 38'. Mr. Morrison merely reached a point on the
Goldie River, when he was attacked and wounded by the natives. This
compelled the party to return to Port Moresby.

Mr. Chalmers is still actively engaged in his work on the great island,
and he has placed many of his journals and papers at the disposal of the
Religious Tract Society, in the hope that their publication may increase
the general store of knowledge about New Guinea, and may also give true
ideas about the natives, the kind of Christian work that is being done in
their midst, and the progress in it that is being made.

The prominence which New Guinea has assumed in the public mind lately is
due much more to political than to religious reasons. England is a
Christian nation, and there are numbers who rejoice in New Guinea as a
signal proof of the regenerating power of the Gospel of Christ. Yet, to
the Christian man, it is somewhat humiliating to find how deeply the
press of our country is stirred by the statement that Germany has annexed
the north coast of New Guinea, while it has hardly been touched by the
thrilling story of the introduction of Christianity all along the south
coast. The public mind is much exercised in discussing whether Her
Majesty's Government should annex the whole rather than proclaim a
protectorate over a part; it hardly cares to remember the names of those
who have died in trying to make known to the fierce Papuans our common
brotherhood in Christ Jesus. One can understand that this is natural;
still it will be an augury of good for the future of the English people,
when, without losing any of their legitimate interest in public affairs,
they care more for the victories won by faith alone, over ignorance,
vice, and barbarism, than for the victories won by the rifle and sword,
however just the cause may be in which these weapons are used.

For years past the idea has been gaining force in the public mind, both
in the colonies and at home, that ultimately England would annex New
Guinea. To any careful student of our history for the last century, it
may appear strange that we have not done so long before. Our practice in
the past has been to annex first, and to find reasons for it afterwards.
To others, the very fact that even now the extremest step is only to
proclaim a protectorate over a part, may appear to indicate that we are
not quite so sure as we have been that annexation is wholly a blessing
either to us or to the land annexed.

As already noted, in 1873, Captain Moresby did good service by accurately
laying down the coastline of Eastern New Guinea. In accomplishing this,
he discovered that there were several beautiful islands that had hitherto
been considered part of the mainland. It is best perhaps to give what
followed in his own words:--

"The importance of our discoveries led me to consider their bearing on
Imperial and Australian interests. There lay the vast island of New
Guinea, dominating the shores of Northern Australia, separated at one
point by only twenty miles of coral reef from British possessions,
commanding the Torres Straits route, commanding the increasing pearl-
shell fisheries, and also the _beche-de-mer_ fishery. It was also
improved by the richness and beauty, and the number of their fine
vegetable products--fine timber, the cocoanut, the sago palm, sugar-
cane, maize, jute, and various vegetable fibres, fruits and rich
grasses--and my conclusion, after weighing all the considerations
involved, was, that it was my duty to take formal possession of our
discoveries in the name of Her Majesty. Such a course secured a
postponement of occupation by any Power till our Government could
consider its own interests, and whilst the acquisition of these
islands might commend itself, and my act result in annexation on the
one hand, it might be negatived on the other with easy simplicity, by
a neglect to confirm it."

Accordingly, a cocoanut tree was transformed into a flagstaff, the
British flag was run up, and duly saluted with cheers and volleys, and a
picture of the proceeding adorns the captain's book as frontispiece.

Ever since that time events have tended in the direction of bringing New
Guinea into closer relations with England. On the one hand, there has
been the conviction that if we do not annex it some other country will,
and thus threaten Australia. Then many Australians have looked upon New
Guinea as a possible paradise for colonists, and have been eager to
establish themselves securely upon its soil. The attempts in this
direction have produced little but disaster to all concerned.

On the other hand, missionaries feel that there is much to be said on the
same side. Perhaps the opinion of no one man deserves more weight than
that of Mr. Chalmers. We give his views, as he expressed them before the
protectorate was proclaimed.

"This question of the annexation of New Guinea is still creating a good
deal of interest, and although at present the Imperial Government,
through Lord Derby, has given its decision against annexation, yet the
whole matter must, I have no doubt, be reconsidered, and the island be
eventually annexed. It is to be hoped the country is not to become part
of the Australian colonies--a labour land, and a land where loose money
in the hands of a few capitalists is to enter in and make enormous
fortunes, sacrificing the natives and everything else. If the Imperial
Government is afraid of the expense, I think that can easily be avoided.
Annex New Guinea, and save it from another power, who might harass our
Australian colonies; administer it for the natives, and the whole
machinery of government can be maintained by New Guinea, and allow a
large overplus. We have all the experience of the Dutch in Java; I say,
accept and improve.

"It will be said that, as a nation, Britain has never tried to govern
commercially, or has not yet made money out of her governing; and why
should she now? She does not want New Guinea. Why should she go to the
expense of governing? Her colonies may be unsafe with a country of
splendid harbours so near in the hands of a foreign power, and the people
of that country need a strong, friendly, and just power over them, to
save them from themselves and from the white man--whose gods are gold and
land, and to whom the black man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon as
possible. Let Britain for these reasons annex, and from the day of
annexation New Guinea will pay all her own expenses; the expenses of the
first three years to be paid with compound interest at the end of that
period.

"Let us begin by recognizing all native rights, and letting it be
distinctly understood that we govern for the native races, not the white
men, that we are determined to civilize and raise to a higher level of
humanity those whom we govern, that our aim will be to do all to defend
them and save them from extermination by just humanitarian laws--not the
laws of the British nation--but the laws suited for them. It will not
take long for the natives to learn that not only are we great and
powerful, but we are just and merciful, and we seek their good.

"That established, I would suggest appointing officers in every district,
whose duty it would be to govern through the native chief, and see that
every native attended to plantations. A native planting tea, sugar,
coffee, maize, cinchona, etc., to be allowed a bounty, and when returns
arrived to be allowed so much per pound sterling. All these things to be
superintended by the said officer.

"Traders would soon swarm, but no one should be allowed to trade with
natives directly, but only through the Government.

"All unoccupied land to belong to the Government, and to be leased to
those wishing land. No native should be allowed to part with land, and
if desirous to sell, then only to the Government, who would allow him a
reasonable price. Every land transaction to be made through Government;
no land to be sold, only leased.

"The land revenue will be immense, and after paying all expenses, will
leave much for improvements and the education of the people. Stringent
laws passed directly annexation takes place to prevent importation of
arms and spirits will be a true safeguard for the natives.

"As a nation, let Britain, in the zenith of her power and greatness,
think kindly of the native races, and now for once in her history rule
this great island for right and righteousness, in justice and mercy, and
not for self and pelf in unrighteousness, blood, and falsehood. It is to
be hoped that future generations of New Guinea natives will not rise up
to condemn her, as the New Zealanders have done, and to claim their
ancient rights with tears now unheeded. I can see along the vista of the
future, truth and righteousness in Britain's hands, and the inhabitants
of New Guinea yet unborn blessing her for her rule; if otherwise, God
help the British meanness, for they will rise to pronounce a curse on her
for ever!"

In 1883, the Queensland Government _did_ formally annex their huge
neighbour; but this act was subsequently repudiated by the Home
Government. Towards the end of 1884, it was decided to announce a formal
protectorate over a large portion of the southern shores of New Guinea.

[Boevagi. Chief of Port Moresby: 19.jpg]

The official ceremony took place on Nov. 6th, 1884, at Port Moresby. Five
ships of war at once gave dignity to the proceeding by their presence,
and astonished the natives by their salutes. About fifty chiefs were
brought on board the Commodore's ship, the _Nelson_, by the Rev. W. G.
Lawes. To Boevagi, the chief of the Port Moresby tribe, was entrusted
the responsibility of upholding the authority and dignity of England in
the island. He was presented with an ebony stick, into the top of which
had been let a florin, with the Queen's head uppermost. Mr. Lawes
conveyed to Boevagi the meaning of the Commodore's words when he gave the
stick. "I present you with this stick, which is to be an emblem of your
authority; and all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs here are
to look to the holder of this stick. Boevagi, this stick represents the
Queen of England, and if at any time any of the people of these tribes
have any grievance or anything to say, they are, through the holder of
this stick, to make it known to the Queen's officers, in order that it
may be inquired into."

The formal protectorate was announced in the following terms:--

"To all to whom these presents shall come, greeting:--Whereas it has
become essential for the lives and properties of the native inhabitants
of New Guinea, and for the purpose of preventing the occupation of
portions of that country by persons whose proceedings, unsanctioned by
any lawful authority, might tend to injustice, strife, and bloodshed, and
who, under the pretence of legitimate trade and intercourse, might
endanger the liberties and possess themselves of the lands of such native
inhabitants, that a British protectorate should be established over a
certain portion of such country and the islands adjacent thereto; and
whereas Her Majesty, having taken into her gracious consideration the
urgent necessity of her protection to such inhabitants, has directed me
to proclaim such protection in a formal manner at this place,--now I,
James Elphinstone Erskine, Captain in the Royal Navy and Commodore of the
Australian Station, one of Her Majesty's naval aides-de-camp, do hereby,
in the name of Her Most Gracious Majesty, declare and proclaim the
establishment of such protectorate over such portions of the coast and
the adjacent islands as is more particularly described in the schedule
hereunto annexed; and I hereby proclaim and declare that no acquisition
of land, whensoever or howsoever acquired, within the limits of the
protectorate hereby established will be recognized by Her Majesty; and I
do hereby, on behalf of Her Majesty, command and enjoin all persons whom
it may concern to take notice of this proclamation.

"SCHEDULE.

"All that portion of the southern shores of New Guinea commencing from
the boundary of that portion of the country claimed by the Government
of the Netherlands on the 141st meridian of east longitude to East
Cape, with all the islands adjacent thereto south of East Cape to
Kosmann Island inclusive, together with the islands in the Goschen
Straits.

"Given on board Her Majesty's ship _Nelson_, at the harbour of Port
Moresby, on the 6th day of November, 1884."

The die has thus been cast. Already rumours that seem to have some
foundation are in the air that the protectorate is soon to become
annexation. It should be the aim of all to see that, by the force of
public opinion, the last portion of the heathen world that has come under
English protection shall have, as the years pass, many and solid reasons
for thanking God that He has so guided its destinies as to unite them to
our great Empire.

CHAPTER I. EARLY EXPERIENCES.

Somerset--Murray Island--Darnley Island--Boera--Moresby--Trip
inland--Sunday at Port Moresby--Native funeral ceremonies--Tupuselei--Round
Head--Native salutations--Kerepunu--Teste Island--Hoop-iron as an article
of commerce--Two teachers landed--A tabooed place--Moresby and Basilisk
Islands--South Cape--House building--Difficulties with the natives--An
anxious moment--Thefts--Dancing and cooking--Visit to a native
village--Native shot on the Mayri--Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers in
danger--Arrival of the _Ellengowan_.

Towards the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr. McFarlane visited New
Guinea for the purpose of exploring the coast, landing native teachers at
suitable spots, and thus opening the way for future missionary effort.
What follows is given in Mr. Chalmers's words:--

We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer _William M'Kinnon_, on September
20th, 1877, for Somerset. The sail inside the Barrier Reef is most
enjoyable. The numerous islands passed, and the varied coast scenery
make the voyage a very pleasant one--especially with such men as our
captain and mates. On Sunday, the 30th, we reached Somerset, where we
were met by the _Bertha_, with Mr. McFarlane on board of her. Mr.
McFarlane was soon on board of the steamer to welcome us, and remained
with us till the evening. There was very little of the Sabbath observed
that day--all was bustle and confusion. Quite a number of the
pearl-shelling boats were at Somerset awaiting the arrival of the
steamer, and the masters of these boats were soon on and around the
steamer receiving their goods.

On Tuesday, October 2nd, we left Somerset in the _Bertha_, for Murray
Island, anchoring that night off Albany. On Wednesday night, we anchored
off a sandbank, and on Thursday, off a miserable-looking island, called
Village Island. On Friday, we came to York Island, where we went ashore
and saw only four natives--one man and three boys. At eleven p.m. on
Saturday, we anchored at Darnley Island. This is a fine island, and more
suitable for vessels and landing goods than Murray, but supposed to be
not so healthy. The island is about five hundred feet in height, in some
parts thickly wooded, in others bare. It was here the natives cut off a
boat's crew about thirty years ago, for which they suffered--the captain
landing with part of his crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing them
right round the island. They never again attempted anything of the kind.
As a native of the island expressed himself on the subject:--"White
fellow, he too much make fright, man he all run away, no want see white
fellow gun no more." In 1871, the first teachers were landed here.

The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon on
shore. We landed after breakfast, and walked through what must be in wet
weather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill. Gucheng, the
Loyalty islander, who is teacher here, looks a good determined fellow.
The people seem to live not far from the mission house, so did not take
long to assemble. There were about eighty at the service, including a
few Australians employed by one of the white men on the island to fish
for trepang. The Darnley islanders appear a much more interesting people
than the Australians. Many of those present at the service were clothed.
They sang very well indeed such hymns as "Come to Jesus," "Canaan, bright
Canaan," which, with some others, have been translated into their
language. Mr. McFarlane addressed them, through the teacher, and the
people seemed to attend to what was said.

Because of a strong head wind, we could not leave the next day, so Mr.
McFarlane and I returned to the shore. We found the children collected
in Gucheng's house, learning to write the letters on slates. There were
very few girls present--indeed, there are not many girls on the island,
so many have been destroyed by their fathers at birth. We strolled about
and visited the large cocoanut plantation belonging to the society. On
our return we found the teacher and a number of natives collected near
the beach. They had just buried a man who had died the night before--so
Christian burial has begun. Formerly, the body would have been hung up
and tapped, to allow the juices to run out, which would have been drunk
by the friends. We returned to the mission house for dinner. I was glad
to find so many boys living with Gucheng. They were bright, happy little
fellows, romping about, enjoying themselves.

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