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PRESSIS NOURISSANT

The Queen Mothers _Pressis_ was thus made. Take _un Gigot_ of Mutton, a
piece of Veal, and a Capon (or half the quantity of each of these) and put
them to rost with convenient fire, till they are above half rosted, or
rather, till they be two thirds rosted. Then take them off, and squeese out
all their juyce in a press with screws, and scum all the fat from it, and
put it between two dishes upon a Chafing-dish of Coals to boil a very
little, or rather but to heat well; for by then it is through hot, the
juyce will be ripened enough to drink, whereas before it was raw and
bloody; then if you perceive any fat to remain and swim upon it, clense it
away with a Feather. Squeese the juyce of an Orange (through a holed spoon)
into half a Porrenger full of this, and add a little Salt, and drink it.
The Queen used this at nights in stead of a Supper; for when she took this,
she did eat nothing else. It is of great, yet temperate nourishment. If you
take a couple of Partridges in stead of a Capon, it will be of more
nourishment, but hotter. Great weaknesses and Consumptions have been
recovered with long use of this, and strength and long life continued
notably. It is good to take two or three spoonfuls of it in a good ordinary
bouillon. I should like better the boiling the same things in a close
flagon _in bulliente Balneo_, as my Lady Kent, and My Mother used.


BROTH AND POTAGE

Mounsieur de Bourdeaux used to take a mornings a broth, thus made. Make a
very good broth (so as to gelly, when it is cold), a lean piece of a leg of
Veal, the Crag-end of a neck of Mutton, and a Pullet, seasoning it with a
little Salt, Cloves and Pepper to your mind. Beat some of it with a handful
of blanched Almonds and twenty husked-seeds of Citron and strain it to the
whole; put Sugar to it, and so drink it as an Emulsion.

Otherwhiles He would make a Potage of the broth, (made without fruit),
boiling and stewing it with some light-bread.


PAN COTTO

To make a _Pan Cotto_, as the Cardinals use in Rome, Take much thinner
broth, made of the fleshes as above (or of Mutton alone) and boil it three
hours, gently and close covered in _una pignata_, with lumps of fine
light-bread tosted or dried. _Un Pan grattato_ is made the same way with
fine light-bread grated. Season the broth of either lightly with Salt, and
put in the Spice at the last, when the bread is almost boiled or stewed
enough. You may use juyce of Oranges to any of these. A wholesom course of
diet is, to eat one of these, or Panada, or Cream of Oat-meal, or Barley,
or two New-laid-eggs for break-fast; and dine at four or five a Clock, with
Capon or Pullet or Partridg, &c. beginning your meal with a little good
nourishing Potage. Two Poched Eggs with a few fine dry-fryed collops of
pure Bacon, are not bad for break-fast, or to begin a meal.


MY LORD LUMLEY'S PEASE-PORAGE

Take two quarts of Pease, and put them into an Ordinary quantity of Water,
and when they are almost boiled, take out a pint of the Pease whole, and
strain all the rest. A little before you take out the pint of Pease, when
they are all boiling together, put in almost an Ounce of Coriander-seed
beaten very small, one Onion, some Mint, Parsley, Winter-savoury,
Sweet-Marjoram, all minced very small; when you have strained the Pease,
put in the whole Pease and the strained again into the pot, and let them
boil again, and a little before you take them up, put in half a pound of
Sweet-butter. You must season them in due time, and in the ordinary
proportion with Pepper and Salt.

This is a proportion to make about a Gallon of Pease-porage. The quantities
are set down by guess. The Coriander-seeds are as much as you can
conveniently take in the hollow of your hand. You may put in a great good
Onion or two. A pretty deal of Parsley, and if you will, and the season
afford them, you may add what you like of other Porage herbs, such as they
use for their Porages in France. But if you take the savoury herbs dry, you
must crumble or beat them to small Powder (as you do the Coriander-seed)
and if any part of them be too big to pass through the strainer, after
they have given their taste to the quantity, in boiling a sufficient while
therein, you put them away with the husks of the Pease. The Pint of Pease
that you reserve whole, is only to show that it is Pease-porage. They must
be of the thickness of ordinary Pease-porage. For which these proportions
will make about a Gallon.


BROTH FOR SICK AND CONVALESCENT PERSONS

Put a Crag-end of a Neck of Mutton, a Knuckle of Veal, and a Pullet into a
Pipkin of water, with a spoonful or two of French-barley first scalded in a
water or two. The Pullet is put in after the other meat is well skimmed,
and hath boiled an hour. A good hour after that, put in a large quantity of
Sorrel, Lettice, Purslane, Borage and Bugloss, and boil an hour more at
least three hours in all. Before you put in the herbs, season the broth
with Salt, a little Pepper and Cloves, strain out the broth and drink it.

But for Potage, put at first a good piece of fleshy young Beef with the
rest of the meat. And put not in your herbs till half an hour before you
take off the Pot. When you use not herbs, but Carrots and Turneps, put in a
little Peny-royal and a sprig of Thyme. Vary in the season with
Green-pease, or Cucumber quartered longwise, or Green sower Verjuyce
Grapes; always well-seasoned with Pepper and Salt and Cloves. You pour some
of the broth upon the sliced-bread by little and little, stewing it, before
you put the Herbs upon the Potage.

The best way of ordering your bread in Potages, is thus. Take light spungy
fine white French-bread, cut only the crusts into tosts. Tost them
exceeding dry before the fire, so that they be yellow. Then put them hot
into a hot dish, and pour upon them some very good strong broth, boiling
hot. Cover this, and let them stew together gently, not boil; and feed it
with fresh-broth, still as it needeth; This will make the bread swell much,
and become like gelly.


AN EXCELLENT POSSET

Take half a pint of Sack, and as much Rhenish wine, sweeten them to your
taste with Sugar. Beat ten yolks of Eggs, and eight of whites exceeding
well, first taking out the Cocks-tread, and if you will the skins of the
yolks; sweeten these also, and pour them to the wine, add a stick or two of
Cinnamon bruised, set this upon a Chafing-dish to heat strongly, but not to
boil; but it must begin to thicken. In the mean time boil for a quarter of
an hour three pints of Cream seasoned duly with Sugar and some Cinnamon in
it. Then take it off from boiling, but let it stand near the fire, that it
may continue scalding-hot whiles the wine is heating. When both are as
scalding-hot as they can be without boiling, pour the Cream into the wine
from as high as you can. When all is in, set it upon the fire to stew for
1/8 of an hour. Then sprinkle all about the top of it the juyce of a 1/4
part of a Limon; and if you will, you may strew Powder of Cinnamon and
Sugar, or Ambergreece upon it.


PEASE OF THE SEEDY BUDS OF TULIPS

In the Spring (about the beginning of May) the flowry-leaves of Tulips do
fall away, and there remains within them the end of the stalk, which in
time will turn to seed. Take that seedy end (then very tender) and pick
from it the little excrescencies about it, and cut it into short pieces,
and boil them and dress them as you would do Pease; and they will taste
like Pease, and be very savoury.


BOILED RICE DRY

The manner of boiling Rice to eat with Butter, is this. In a Pipkin pour
upon it as much water, as will swim a good fingers breadth over it. Boil it
gently, till it be tender, and all the water drunk into the Rice; which may
be in a quarter of an hour or less. Stir it often with a woodden spatule or
spoon, that it burn not to the bottom: But break it not. When it is enough,
pour it into a dish, and stew it with some Butter, and season it with sugar
and Cinnamon. This Rice is to appear dry, excepting for the Butter, that is
melted in it.


MARROW SOPS WITH WINE

Make thin tosts or slices of light French bread, which dry well, or toste a
little by the fire, then Soak them in Canary or old Malaga-wine, or fine
Muscat, and lay a row of them in a deep dish or bason; then a row of lumps
of Marrow upon that; then strew a little fine sugar mingled with some
Powder of Cinnamon and Ambergreece (and Nutmeg, if you like it) upon that.
Then another row of sops, &c. repeating this, till the dish be full: and
more Sugar, Cinnamon and Amber at the top, then on the other rows. If you
will, you may put a row of stoned Raisins of the Sun upon every row of
Marrow. Then cover the dish, and put it in an Oven to bake for half-an
hour; or till the Marrow be sufficiently baked.


CAPON IN WHITE-BROTH

My Lady of Monmouth boileth a Capon with white broth thus. Make reasonable
good broth, with the crag-ends of Necks of Mutton and Veal (of which you
must have so much as to be at least three quarts of White-broth in the dish
with the Capon, when all is done, else it will not come high enough upon
the Capon). Beat a quarter of a pound of blanched Almonds with three or
four spoonfuls of Cream, and, if you will, a little Rose water; then add
some of your broth to it, so to draw out all their substance, mingling it
with the rest of your broth. Boil your Capon in fair-water by it self; and
a Marrow-bone or two by themselves in other water. Likewise some Chess-nuts
(in stead of which you may use Pistaccios, or macerated Pine kernels) and
in other water some Skirrits or Endive, or Parsley-roots, according to the
season. Also plumpsome Raisins of the Sun, and stew some sliced Dates with
Sugar and water. When all is ready to joyn, beat two or three New-laid-eggs
(whites and all) with some of the White-broth, that must then be boiling,
and mingle it with the rest, and let it boil on: and mingle the other
prepared things with it, as also a little sliced Oringiado (from which the
hard Candy-sugar hath been soaked off with warm-water) or a little peel of
Orange (or some Limon Pickled with Sugar and Vinegar, such as serves for
Salets) which you throw away, after it hath been a while boiled in it: and
put a little Sack to your broth, and some Ambergreece, if you will, and a
small portion of Sugar; and last of all, put in the Marrow in lumps that
you have knocked out of the boiled bones. Then lay your Capon taken hot
from the Liquor, he is boiled in, upon sippets and slices of tosted light
bread, and pour your broth and mixture upon it, and cover it with another
dish, and let all stew together a while: then serve it up. You must
remember to season your broth in due time with salt and such spices as you
like.


TO BUTTER EGGS WITH CREAM

Take to a dozen of Eggs a pint of Cream; beat them well together, and put
three quarters of a pound of Butter to them, and so set them on the fire to
harden, and stir them, till they are as hard, as you would have them.


TO MAKE COCK-ALE

Take eight Gallons of Ale; take a Cock and boil him well; then take four
pounds of Raisins of the Sun well stoned, two or three Nutmegs, three or
four flakes of Mace, half a pound of Dates; beat these all in a Mortar, and
put to them two quarts of the best Sack; and when the Ale hath done
working, put these in, and stop it close six or seven days, and then bottle
it, and a month after you may drink it.


TO MAKE PLAGUE-WATER

Take a pound of Rue, of Rosemary, Sage, Sorrel, Celandine, Mugwort, of the
tops of red brambles of Pimpernel, Wild-dragons, Agrimony, Balm, Angelica
of each a pound. Put these Compounds in a Pot, fill it with White-wine
above the herbs, so let it stand four days. Then still it for your use in a
Limbeck.


ANOTHER PLAGUE-WATER

Take Rue, Agrimony, Wormwood, Celandine, Sage, Balm, Mugwort, Dragons,
Pimpernel, Marygold, Fetherfew, Burnet, Sorrel, and Elicampane-roots
scraped and sliced small. Scabious, Wood-betony, Brown-mayweed, Mints,
Avence, Tormentil, _Carduus benedictus_, and Rosemary as much as of
anything else, and Angelica if you will. You must have like weight of all
them, except Rosemary aforesaid, which you must have twice as much of as of
any of the rest; then mingle them altogether and shred them very small;
then steep them in the best White-wine you can get, three days and three
nights, stirring them once or twice a day, putting no more wine then will
cover the Herbs well; then still it in a Common-still; and take not too
much of the first-water, and but a little of the second, according as you
feel the strength, else it will be sower. There must be but half so much
Elicampane as of the rest.


TO MAKE RASBERY-WINE

Take four Gallons of Deal wine, put it into an earthen jugg; put to it four
Gallons of Rasberries; let them stand so infusing seven days; then press it
out gently; Then infuse as many more Rasberries seven days longer, and so
three times if you please; put to it as much fine Sugar as will make it
pleasant; Put it into a Runlet close stopped, let it stand till it is fine;
and then draw it into bottles, and keep it till it be fine.


TO KEEP QUINCE ALL THE YEAR GOOD

Take all your least and worst Quinces, that are found, and cut them in
pieces, with all the Corings and Parings you make; boil them more then an
hour; then put the Quinces into this boiling liquor, and take them forth
presently, not letting them boil, and lay them to cool one by one a part;
then take the liquor and strain it; and put for every Gallon of liquor half
a pint of honey; then boil it and scum it clean; let it be cold; and then
put your Quinces into a pot or tub, that they be covered with the liquor,
and stop it very close with your Paste.


TO MAKE A WHITE-POT

Take three quarts of Cream, and put into it the yolks of twelve Eggs; the
whites of four, being first very well beaten between three quarters of a
pound of Sugar, two Nutmegs grated, a little Salt; half a pound of Raisins
first plump'd. These being sliced together, cut some thin slices of a stale
Manchet; dry them in a dish against the fire, and lay them on the top of
the Cream, and some Marrow again upon the bread, and so bake it.


TO MAKE AN HOTCHPOT

Take a piece of Brisket-beef; a piece of Mutton; a knuckle of Veal; a good
Colander of pot-herbs; half minced Carrots, Onions and Cabbage a little
broken. Boil all these together until they be very thick.


ANOTHER HOTCHPOT

Take a Pot of two Gallons or more; and take a brisket rand of Beef; any
piece of Mutton, and a piece of Veal; put this with sufficient water into
the pot, and after it hath boiled, and been skimmed, put in a great
Colander full of ordinary pot-herbs; a piece of Cabbage, all half cut; a
good quantity of Onions whole, six Carrots cut and sliced, and two or three
Pippins quartered. Let this boil three hours until it be almost a gelly,
and stir it often, least it burn.


TO STEW BEEF

Take good fat Beef, slice it very thin into small pieces, and beat it well
with the back of a chopping Knife. Then put it into a Pipkin, and cover it
with wine and water, and put unto it a handful of good Herbs, and an Onion,
with an Anchoves. Let it boil two hours; A little before you take it up,
put in a few Marygold-flowers; and so season it with what Spice you please,
and serve them up both with sippets.


ANOTHER TO STEW BEEF

Take very good Beef, and slice it very thin; and beat it with the back of a
Knife; Put it to the gravy of some meat, and some wine or strong broth,
sweet-herbs a quantity, let it stew till it be very tender; season it to
your liking; and varnish your dish with Marygold-flowers or Barberries.


TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL

Take a Breast of Veal half rosted, and put it a stewing with some wine and
gravy; three or four yolks of Eggs minced small; a pretty quantity of
Sweet-herbs with an Onion, Anchoves or Limon; stick it either with Thyme
or Limon-peels, and season it to your liking.


SAUCE OF HORSE RADISH

Take Roots of Horse-radish scraped clean, and lay them to soak in
fair-water for an hour. Then rasp them upon a Grater, and you shall have
them all in a tender spungy Pap. Put Vinegar to it, and a very little
Sugar, not so much as to be tasted, but to quicken (by contrariety) the
taste of the other.


THE QUEENS HOTCHPOT FROM HER ESCUYER DE CUISINE, MR. LA MONTAGUE

The Queen Mothers Hotchpot of Mutton, is thus made. It is exceeding good of
fresh Beef also, for those whose Stomacks can digest it. Cut a neck of
Mutton, Crag-end and all into steaks (which you may beat, if you will; but
they will be very tender without beating) and in the mean time prepare your
water to boil in a Possnet, (which must be of a convenient bigness to have
water enough, to cover the meat, and serve all the stewing it, without
needing to add any more to it; and yet no superfluous water at last.) Put
your meat into the boiling water, and when you have scummed it clean, put
into it a good handful of Parsley, and as much of Sibboulets (young Onions
or Sives) chopped small, if you like to eat them in substance; otherwise
tied up in a bouquet, to throw them away, when they have communicated to
the water all their taste; some Pepper; three or four Cloves, and a little
Salt, and half a Limon first pared. These must stew or boil simpringly,
(covered) at least three or four hours (a good deal more, if Beef)
stirring it often, that it burn not too. A good hour before you intend to
take it off, put some quartered Turneps to it, or, if you like them, some
Carrots. A while after, take a good lump of Houshold-bread, bigger than
your fist, crust and crum, broil it upon a Gridiron, that it be throughly
rosted; scrape off the black burning on the on side; then soak it throughly
in Vinegar, and put this lump of tost into your possnet to stew with it;
which you take out and throw away after a while. About a quarter of an hour
before you serve it up melt a good lump of Butter (as much as a great Egg)
till it grow red; then take it from the fire, and put to it a little fine
flower to thicken it (about a couple of spoonfuls) like thick Pap. Stir
them very well together; then set them on the fire again, till it grow-red,
stirring it all the while; then put to it a ladleful of the liquor of the
pot, and let them stew a while together to incorporate, stirring it always.
Then pour this to the whole substance in the Possnet, to Incorporate with
all the liquor, and so let them stew a while together. Then pour it out of
the possnet into your dish, meat and all: for it will be so tender, it will
not endure taking up piece by piece with your hand. If you find the taste
not quick enough, put into it the juyce of the half Limon, you reserved.
For I should have said, that when you put in the Herbs, you squeese in also
the juyce of half a Limon (pared from the yellow rinde, which else would
make it bitter) and throw the pared and squeesed half (the substance) into
it afterwards. The last things (of Butter, bread, flower) cause the
liaison and thickening of the liquor. If this should not be enough, you may
also put a little gravy of Mutton into it; stirring it well when it is in,
least it curdle in stewing, or you may put the yolk of an Egg or two to
your liaison of Butter, Flower, and ladleful of broth. For gravy of Mutton.
Rost a juycy leg of Mutton three quarters. Then gash it in several places,
and press out the juyce by a screw-press.


A SAVOURY AND NOURISHING BOILED CAPON DEL CONTE DI TRINO, A MILANO

Take a fat and fleshy Capon, or a like Hen; Dress it in the ordinary
manner, and cleanse it within from the guts, &c. Then put in the fat again
into the belly, and split the bones of the legs and wings (as far as you
may, not to deface the fowl) so as the Marrow may distil out of them. Add a
little fresh Butter and Marrow to it; season it with Salt, Pepper, and,
what other Spice you like, as also savoury herbs. Put the Capon with all
these condiments into a large strong sound bladder of an Ox (first well
washed and scoured with Red-wine) and tie it very close and fast to the
top, that nothing may ouse out, nor any water get in (and there must be
void space in the bladder, that the flesh may have room to swell and
ferment in; therefore it must be a large one). Put this to boil for a
couple of hours in a Kettle of water, or till you find by touching the
Bladder, that the Capon is tender and boiled enough. Then serve it up in a
dish, in the Bladder (dry wiped) which when you cut, you will find a
precious and nourishing liquor to eat with bread, and the Capon will be
short, tender, most savoury and full of juyce, and very nourishing.

I conceive, that if you put enough Ox-marrow, you need no butter; and that
it may do well to add Ambergreece, Dates-sliced and pithed, Raisins,
Currants, and a little Sugar.

Peradventure this might be done well in a Silver-flagon close luted, set in
_Balneo bulliente_, as I make the nourishing broth or gelly of Mutton or
Chickens, &c.


AN EXCELLENT BAKED PUDDING

Slice thin two peny-roles, or one, of French-bread, the tender part. Lay it
in a dish or pan. Pour upon it a quart of Cream, that hath been well
boiled. Let it stand almost half an hour, till it be almost cold. Then stir
the bread and Cream very well together, till the bread be well broken and
Incorporated. (If you have no French bread, take stale Kingston bread,
grated) add to this two spoonfuls of fine Wheat-flower, the yolks of four
Eggs, and the whites of two; a Nutmeg--grated small; Sugar to your tast; a
little Salt, and the Marrow of two bones a little shreded. Stir all these
together; then pour it into a dish greased over with Butter, and set it
uncovered in the Oven to bake. About half an hour will serve, and give the
top a yellow crispiness. Before you put in the Marrow, put in a quarter of
a pound and a half of Raisins of the Sun, and as much of Currants; Ordering
them so, that they may not fall to the bottom, but be all about the
pudding.


MY LADY OF PORTLAND'S MINCED PYES

Take four pounds of Beef, Veal or Neats-Tongues, and eight pounds of Suet;
and mince both the meat and Suet very small, befor you put them together.
Then mingle them well together and mince it very small, and put to it six
pounds of Currants washed and picked very clean. Then take the Peel of two
Limons, and half a score of Pippins, and mince them very small. Then take
above an Ounce of Nutmegs, and a quarter of an Ounce of Mace, some Cloves
and Cinnamon, and put them together, and sweeten them with Rose-water and
Sugar. And when you are ready to put them into your Paste, take Citron and
Orangiadoe, and slice them very thin, and lay them upon the meat. If you
please, put dates upon the top of them. And put amongst the meat an Ounce
of Caraway seeds. Be sure you have very fine Paste.

My Lady of Portland told me since, that she finds Neats-tongues to be the
best flesh for Pies. Parboil them first. For the proportion of the
Ingredients she likes best to take equal parts of flesh, of suet, of
currants and of Raisins of the Sun. The other things in proportion as is
said above. You may either put the Raisins in whole, or stone the greatest
part, and Mince them with the Meat. Keep some whole ones, to lay a bed of
them at the top of the Pye, when all is in. You will do well to stick the
Candid Orange-peel, and green Citron-peel into the meat. You may put a
little Sack or Greek Muscadine into each Pye. A little Amber-sugar doth
well here. A pound of flesh, and proportionably of all things else, is
enough for once in a large family.


ANOTHER WAY OF MAKING EXCELLENT MINCED PYES OF MY LADY PORTLANDS

Parboil Neats-tongues. Then Peel and hash them with as much as they weigh
of Beef-suet, and stoned Raisins and picked Currants. Chop all exceeding
small, that it be like Pap. Employ therein at least an hour more, then
ordinarily is used. Then mingle a very little Sugar with them, and a little
wine, and thrust in up and down some thin slices of green Candyed
Citron-peel. And put this into coffins of fine light well reared crust.
Half an hour baking will be enough. If you strew a few Carvi comfits on the
top, it will not be amiss.


MINCED PYES

My Lady Lasson makes her finest minced Pyes of Neats-tongues; But she
holdeth the most savoury ones to be of Veal and Mutton equal parts very
small minced. Her finest crust is made by sprinkling the flower (as much as
it needeth) with cold water, and then working the past with little pieces
of raw Butter in good quantity. So that she useth neither hot water, nor
melted butter in them; And this makes the crust short and light. After all
the meat and seasoning, and Plums and Citron Peel, &c. is in the Coffin,
she puts a little Ambered-sugar upon it, thus; Grind much two grains of
Ambergreece and half a one of Musk, with a little piece of hard loaf Sugar.
This will serve six or eight pyes, strewed all over the top. Then cover it
with the Liddle, and set it in the oven.


TO ROST FINE MEAT

When the Capon, Chickens, or Fowl, have been long enough before the fire,
to be through hot, and that it is time to begin to baste them: baste them
once all over very well with fresh Butter; then presently powder it all
over very thin with Flower. This by continuing turning before the fire,
will make a thin crust, which will keep in all the juyce of the meat.
Therefore baste no more, nor do any thing to it, till the meat be enough
rosted. Then baste it well with Butter as before, which will make the crust
relent and fall away; which being done, and that the meat is growing brown
on the Out-side, besprinkle it over with a little ordinary white Salt in
gross-grains; and continue turning, till the outside be brown enough.

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