Kenelm Digby - The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened

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TO MAKE PEAR-PUDDINGS

Take a cold Capon, or half-rosted, which is much better; then take Suet,
shred very small the meat and Suet together; then half as much grated
bread, two spoonfuls of Flower, Nutmegs, Clove and Mace; Sugar as much as
you please; half a Pound of Currants; the yolks of two Eggs, and the white
of one; and as much Cream, as will make it up in a stiff Paste. Then make
it up in fashion of a pear, a stick of Cinnamon for the stalk, and the head
a Clove.

TO MAKE CALL-PUDDINGS

Take three Marrow-bones, slice them; water the Marrow over night, to take
away the blood. Then take the smallest of the Marrow, and put it into the
Puddings, with a Peny-loaf grated, a spoonful of Flower, and Spice as
before; a quarter of a pound of Currants; Sugar as much as you please, four
Eggs, two of the whites taken away. Cream as much as will make it as stiff
as other Puddings. Stuff the Call of Veal cut into the bigness of little
Hogs-puddings; you must sow them all to one end; and so fill them; then
sow up the other end, and when they are boiled, take hold of the thred, and
they will all come out. You must boil them in half white Wine and half
Water; with one large Mace, a few Currants, a spoonful of the Pudding
stuff, the Marrow in whole lumps; all this first boiled up, then put in
your Puddings, and when half boiled, put in your Marrow. One hour will boil
them. Serve them up with Sippets, and no more Liquor, then will serve them
up; you must put Salt in all the Puddings.

A BARLEY PUDDING

Take two Ounces of Barley pick'd and washed; boil it in Milk, till it is
tender; then let your Milk run from it; Then take half a Pint of Cream, and
six spoonfuls of the boiled Barley; eight spoonfuls of grated bread, four
Eggs, two whites taken away. Spice as you please, and Sugar and Salt as you
think fit, one Marrow-bone, put in the lumps as whole as you can; Then make
Puff-paste, and rowl a thin sheet of it, and lay it in a dish. Then take a
piece of Green-citron sliced thin, lay it all over the dish. Then take
Cream, grated bread, your Spice, Sugar, Eggs and Salt; beat all these very
well together half a quarter of an hour, pour it on your dish where Citron
is, then cover it over with puff-paste, and let it bake in a quick oven
three quarters of an hour. Scrape Sugar on it, and serve it up.

A PIPPIN-PUDDING

Take Pippins and pare, and cut off the tops of them pretty deep. Then take
out as much of your Apple as you can take without breaking your Apple,
then fill your Apple with pudding-stuff, made with Cream, a little Sack,
Marrow, Grated bread, Eggs, Sugar, Spice and Salt; Make it pretty stiff.
Put it into the Pippins; lay the tops of the Pippins upon the Pippins
again, stick it through with a stick of Cinnamon. Set as many upright in
your dish as you can: and so fill it up with Cream, and sweeten it with
Sugar and Mace; and stew them between two dishes.

TO MAKE A BAKED OATMEAL-PUDDING

Take middle Oat-meal, pick it very clean, steep it all night in Cream, half
a Pint of Oat-meal, to a quart of Cream, make your Cream scalding hot,
before you put in your Oat-meal, so cover it close. Take a good handful of
Penny-royal, shred it very small, with a pound of Beef-suet. Put it to your
Cream with half a pound of Raisins of the Sun, Sugar, Spice, four or five
Eggs, two whites away. So bake it three quarters of an hour; and then serve
it up.

A PLAIN QUAKING-PUDDING

Take about three Pints of new morning Milk, and six or seven new laid Eggs,
putting away half the whites, and two spoonfuls of fine-flower, about a
quarter of a Nutmeg grated, and about a quarter of a pound of Sugar (more
or less, according to your taste,) After all these are perfectly mingled
and incorporated together, put the matter into a fit bag, and so put it
into boiling water, and boil it up with a quick fire. If you boil it too
long, the Milk will turn to whay in the body or substance of the Pudding,
and there will be a slimy gelly all about the outside. But in about half an
hour, it will be tenderly firm, and of an uniform consistence all over.
You need not put in any Butter or Marrow or Suet, or other Spice, but the
small proportion of Nutmeg set down, not grated bread. For the Sauce, you
pour upon it thickened melted Butter, beaten with a little Sack, or
Orange-flower water, and Sugar; or compounded in what manner you please, as
in other such like Puddings.

A GOOD QUAKING BAG-PUDDING

Set a quart of good morning Milk upon the fire, having seasoned it with
Salt, and sliced or grated Nutmeg. When it beginneth to boil, take it from
the fire, and put into it four peny Manchets of light French-bread sliced
very thin (If it were Kingstone-bread, which is firmer, it must be grated)
and a lump of Sweet-butter as big as a Wall-nut, and enough Sugar to season
it; and cover the possnet with a plate to keep the heat in, that the bread
may soak perfectly. Whiles this standeth thus, take ten yolks of
New-laid-eggs, with one White, and beat them very well with a spoonful or
two of Milk; and when the Milk is cooled enough, pour it (with the bread in
it,) into the bason, where the beaten Eggs are, (which likewise should
first be sweetned with Sugar to their proportion,) and put about three
spoonfuls of fine flower into the composition, and knead them well
together. If you will, you may put in a spoonful of Sack or Muscadine, and
Ambared Sugar, working all well together; as also, some lumps of Marrow or
Suet shred very small: but it will be very good without either of these.
Then put this mixtion into a deep Woodden dish (like a great Butter-box)
which must first be on the inside a little greased with Butter, and a
little Flower sprinkled thereon, to save the Pudding from sticking to the
sides of the dish. Then put a linnen cloth or handkercher over the mouth of
the dish, and reverse the mouth downwards, so that you may tye the Napkin
close with two knots by the corners cross, or with a strong thred, upon the
bottom of the dish, then turned upwards; all which is, that the matter may
not get out, and yet the boiling water get through the linnen upon it on
one side enough to bake the pudding sufficiently. Put the Woodden-dish thus
filled and tyed up into a great Possnet or little Kettle of boiling water.
The faster it boils, the better it will be. The dish will turn and rowl up
and down in the water, as it gallopeth in boiling. An hours boiling is
sufficient. Then unty your linnen, and take it off, and reverse the mouth
of the dish downwards into the Silver-dish you will serve it up in; wherein
is sufficient melted Butter thickened with beating, and sweetened to your
taste with Sugar, to serve for Sauce. You may beat a little Sack or
Muscadine, or Rose, or Orange-flower-water with the Sauce; a little of any
of which may also go into the Composition of the Pudding. If you put in
more Flower, or more then one white of Egg to this proportion, it will
binde the Pudding too close and stiff.

In plain Bag-puddings it makes them much more savoury, to put into them a
little Penny-royal shreded very small, as also other sweet-Herbs. You must
put in so little, as not to taste strong of them, but onely to quicken the
other flat Ingredients.

ANOTHER BAKED PUDDING

Take a Pint and half of good Sweet-cream; set it on the fire, and let it
just boil up, take a peny Manchet, not too new, cut off the crust, and
slice it very thin, put it into a clean earthen pan, and pour the Cream
upon it, and cover it very close an hour or thereabouts, to steep the
bread; when it is steeped enough, take four New laid-eggs, yolks and
whites, beat them with a spoonful of Rose-water, and two of Sack; grate
into it half a Nutmeg, and put into it a quarter of a pound of good
white-Sugar finely beaten, stir all this together with the Cream and Bread;
then shred very small half a pound of good Beef-kidney-suet, and put this
to the rest, and mingle them very well together with a slice or spoon; then
size your dish, that you intend to bake it in, and rub the bottom of it
with a little sweet-Butter; then put your pudding into it, and take the
Marrow of two good bones, and stick it in lumps here and there all over
your Pudding; so put it into the oven three quarters of an hour, in which
time it will be well baked. Strew on it some fine Sugar, and serve it.

TO MAKE BLACK PUDDINGS

Take a pottle of half-cut Groats; pick them clean, that there may be no
husks nor foulness in them; then put them into a Mortar, bruise them a
little with a Pestle; then have ready either Milk, or fresh meat-broth
boiled up, and the Oat-meal immediately put into it; It must be just so
much as will cover it; then cover the thing close that it is in, and let it
steep twenty four hours; To this two quarts of Oatmeal, put a pint and
half of blood, season it well with Salt, and a little Pepper, and a little
beaten Cloves and Mace, eight Eggs, yolks and whites, five pound of
Kidney-beef-suet shred, but not too small; then put in of these herbs;
Peny-royal, Fennel, Leek-blades, Parsley, Sage, Straw-berry-leaves and
Violet leaves, equal parts, in all to the quantity of a good handful; let
them be pick'd and washed very clean, and chop'd very small, and mingled
well with the former things; Then fill your Puddings.

Make ready your guts in this manner. Cleanse them very well, when they are
fresh taken out of the Hog; and after they are well washed and scowred, lay
them to soak in fair water three days and three nights, shifting the water
twice every day: and every time you shift the water, scour them first with
Water and Salt. An hour and a quarter is enough to boil them.

TO PRESERVE PIPPINS IN JELLY, EITHER IN QUARTERS, OR IN SLICES

Take good sound clear Pippins, pare, quarter and coar them; then put them
into a skillet of Conduit-water, such a proportion as you intend to make;
boil it very well: then let the liquor run from the pulp through a sieve,
without forcing, and let it stand till the next morning. Take Orange or
Limon peel, and boil in a skillet of water, till they are tender; then rowl
them up in a linnen cloth to dry the water well out of them; let them lie
so all night. Then take of double refined and finely beaten and searced
Sugar a pound to every pint of Pippin Liquor that ran through the sieve,
and to every pound of Sugar, and pint of liquor, put ten Ounces of Pippins
in quarters or in slices, but cut them not too thin; boil them a little
while very fast in the Pippin-liquor, before you put in the Sugar, then
strew in the Sugar all over them as it boileth, till it is all in, keeping
it still fast boiling, until they look very clear; by that you may know
they are enough. While they boil, you must still be scumming them; then put
in your juyce of Limon to your last, and Amber, if you please; and after
let it boil half a dozen walms, but no more. Then take it from the fire,
and have ready some very thin Brown-paper, and clap a single sheet close
upon it, and if any scum remain, it will stick to the Paper. Then put your
quarters or slices into your Glasses, and strew upon them very small slices
of Limon or Orange (which you please) which you had before boiled; then
fill up your Glasses with your jelly.

For making your Pippin-liquor, you may take about some fourty Pippins to
two quarts of water, or so much as to make your Pippin-liquor strong of the
Pippins, and the juyce of about four Limons.

MY LADY DIANA PORTER'S SCOTCH COLLOPS

Cut a leg or two of Mutton into thin slices, which beat very well. Put them
to fry over a very quick fire in a pan first glased over, with no more
Butter melted in it, then just to besmear a little all the bottom of the
Pan. Turn them in due time. There must never be but one row in the pan, nor
any slice lying upon another; but every one immediate to the pan. When they
are fryed enough, lay them in a hot dish covered, over a Chafing-dish, and
pour upon them the Gravy that run out of them into the Pan. Then lay
another row of slices in the Pan to fry as before; and when they are
enough, put them into the dish to the other. When you have enough, by such
repetitions, or by doing them in two or three pans, all at a time; take a
Porrenger full of Gravy of Mutton, and put into it a piece of Butter as
much a Wall-nut, and a quartered Onion if you will (or rub the dish
afterwards with Garlike) and Pepper and Salt, and let this boil to be very
hot; then throw away the Onion, and pour this into the dish upon the
slices, and let them stew a little together; then squeese an Orange upon
it, and serve it up.

A FRICACEE OF VEAL

Cut a leg of Veal into thin slices, and beat them; or the like with
Chicken, which must be flead off their skin. Put about half a pint of water
or flesh-broth to them in a frying-pan, and some Thyme, and Sweet-marjoram,
and an Onion or two quartered, and boil them till they be tender, having
seasoned them with Salt, and about twenty Corns of whole white Pepper, and
four or five Cloves. When they are enough, take half a pint of White wine,
four yolks of Eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter (or more) a good
spoonful of Thyme, Sweet-Marjoram and Parsley (more Parsley then of the
others) all minced small; a Porrenger full of gravy. When all these are
well incorporated together over the fire, and well beaten, pour it into the
pan to the rest, and turn it continually up and down over the fire, till
all be well incorporated. Then throw away the Onion and first sprigs of
Herbs, squeese Orange to it, and so serve it up hot.

If instead of a Fricacee, you will make _un estuvee de veau_, stew or boil
simpringly your slices of Veal in White-wine and water, _ana_, with a good
lump of Butter, seasoning it with Pepper and Salt and Onions. When it is
enough, put to it store of yolks of Eggs beaten with Verjuyce, or
White-wine and Vinegar, and some Nutmeg (and gravy if you will) and some
Herbs as in the Fricacee; and stir all very well over the fire till the
sauce be well _lie_ together.

A TANSY

Take three pints of Cream, fourteen New-laid-eggs (seven whites put away)
one pint of juyce of Spinage, six or seven spoonfuls of juyce of Tansy, a
Nutmeg (or two) sliced small, half a pound of Sugar, and a little Salt.
Beat all these well together, then fryit in a pan with no more Butter then
is necessary. When it is enough, serve it up with juyce of Orange or slices
of Limon upon it.

TO STEW OYSTERS

Take what quantity you will of the best Oysters to eat raw. Open them,
putting all their water with the fish into a bason. Take out the Oysters
one by one (that you may have them washed clean in their own water) and lay
them in the dish you intend to stew them in. Then let their water run upon
them through a fine linnen, that all their foulness may remain behind. Then
put a good great lump of Butter to them, which may be (when melted) half as
much, as their water. Season them with Salt, Nutmeg, and a very few
Cloves. Let this boil smartly, covered. When it is half boiled, put in some
crusts of light French-bread, and boil on, till all be enough, and then
serve them up.

You may put in three or four grains of Ambergreece, when you put in the
Nutmeg, that in the boiling it may melt. You may also put in a little
White-wine or Verjuyce at the last, or some juyce of Orange.

TO DRESS LAMPREY'S

At Glocester they use Lamprey's thus. Heat water in a Pot or Kettle with a
narrow mouth, till it be near ready to boil; so that you may endure to dip
your hand into it, but not to let it stay in. Put your Lamprey's, as they
come out of the River, into this scalding-water, and cover the pot, that
little while they remain in, which must be but a moment, about an _Ave
Maria_ while. Then with a Woodden ladle take them out, and lay them upon a
table, and hold their head in a Napkin (else it will slip away, if held in
the bare hand) and with the back of a knife scrape off the mud, which will
have risen out all along the fish. A great deal and very thick will come
off: and then the skin will look clean and shining and blew, which must
never be flead off. Then open their bellies all along, and with a Pen-knife
loosen the string which begins under the gall (having first cast away the
gall and entrails) then pull it out, and in the pulling away, it will
stretch much in length; then pick out a black substance, that is all along
under the string, cutting towards the back as much as is needful for this
end. Then rowl them up and down in a soft and dry napkin, changing this as
soon as it is wet for another, using so many Napkins as may make the fishes
perfectly dry; for in that consisteth a chief part of their preparation.
Then powder them well with Pepper and Salt, rubbing them in well, and lay
them round in a Pot or strong crust upon a good Lare of Butter, and store
of Onions every where about them, and chiefly a good company in the middle.
Then put more Butter upon them, covering the pot with a fit cover, and so
set them into a quick oven, that is strongly heated; where they will
require three or four hours (at least) baking. When they are taken out of
the oven and begin to cool, pour store of melted Butter upon them, to fill
up the pot at least three fingers breadth above the fish, and then let it
cool and harden; And thus it will keep a year, if need be, so the Butter be
not opened, nor craked, that the air get into the fish.

To eat them presently, They dress them thus: When they are prepared, as
abovesaid, (ready for baking) boil them with store of Salt and gross
Pepper, and many Onions, in no more water, then is necessary to cover them,
as when you boil a Carp or Pike _au Court bouillon_. In half or three
quarters of an hour, they will be boiled tender. Then take them and drain
them from the water, and serve them with thickened Butter, and some of the
Onions minced into it, and a little Pepper, laying the fish upon some
sippets of spungy bread, that may soak up the water, if any come from the
fish; and pour butter upon the fish; so serve it up hot.

TO DRESS STOCK FISH, SOMEWHAT DIFFERINGLY FROM THE WAY OF HOLLAND

Beat the fish very well with a large Woodden-Mallet, so as not to break it,
but to loosen all the flakes within. It is the best way to have them beaten
with hard heavy Ropes. And though thus beaten, they will keep a long time,
if you put them into Pease straw, so thrust in as to keep them from all
air, and that they touch not one another, but have straw enough between
every fish. When you will make the best dish of them, take only the tails,
and tye up half a dozen or eight of them with White-thred. First, they must
be laid to soak over night in cold water. About an hour and half, (or a
little more) before they are to be eaten, put them to boil in a pot or
Pipkin, that you may cover with a cover of Tin or Letton so close, that no
steam can get out; and lay a stone or other weight upon it, to keep the
cover from being driven off by the steam of the water. Put in no more
water, then well to cover them. They must never boil strongly, but very
leasurely and but simpringly. It will be near half an hour before the water
begin to boil so: And from their beginning to do so, they must boil a good
hour. You must never put in any new water, though hot, for that will make
the fish hard. After the hour, take out the fishes and untie them, and lay
them loose in a colander with holes to drain out the water, and toss them
in it up and down very well, as you use to do Butter and Pease; and that
will loosen and break asunder all the flakes, which will make them the
more susceptible of the Butter, when you stew them in it, and make it
pierce the better into the flakes, and make them tender. Then lay them by
thin rows in the dish, they are to be served up in: casting upon every row
a little salt, and some green Parsley minced very small. They who love
young-green Onions or sives, or other savory Herbs, or Pepper, may use them
also in the same manner, when they are in season. When all is in, fill up
with sweet Butter well melted and thickened; and so let it stew there a
while, to soak well into the fish; which will lie in fine loose tender
flakes, well buttered and seasoned. You may eat it with Mustard besides.

BUTTERED WHITINGS WITH EGGS

Boil Whitings as if you would eat them in the Ordinary way with thick
Butter-sauce. Pick them clean from skin and bones, and mingle them well
with butter, and break them very small, and season them pretty high with
Salt. In the mean time Butter some Eggs in the best manner, and mingle them
with the buttered Whitings, and mash them well together. The Eggs must not
be so many by a good deal as the Fish. It is a most savoury dish.

TO DRESS POOR-JOHN AND BUCKORN

The way of dressing Poor-John, to make it very tender and good meat, is
this. Put it into the Kettle in cold water, and so hang it over the fire;
and so let it soak and stew without boiling for 3 hours: but the water must
be very hot. Then make it boil two or three walms. By this time it will be
very tender and swelled up. Then take out the back-bone, and put it to fry
with Onions. If you put it first into hot water (as ling and such salt
fish,) or being boiled, if you let it cool, and heat it again it will be
tough and hard.

Buckorne is to be watered a good hour before you put it to the fire. Then
boil it till it be tender, which it will be quickly. Then Butter it as you
do Ling; and if you will, put Eggs to it.

THE WAY OF DRESSING STOCK-FISH IN HOLLAND

First beat it exceedingly well, a long time, but with moderate blows, that
you do not break it in pieces, but that you shake and loosen all the inward
Fibers. Then put it into water (which may be a little warmed) to soak, and
infuse so during twelve or fourteen hours (or more, if it be not yet
pierced into the heart by the water, and grown tender.) Then put it to boil
very gently, (and with no more water, then well to cover it, which you must
supply with new hot water as it consumeth) for six or seven hours at least,
that it may be very tender and loose and swelled up. Then press and drain
out all the water from it; and heat it again in a dish, with store of
melted Butter thickened; and if you like it, you may season it also with
Pepper and Mustard. But it will be yet better, if after it is well and
tender boiled in water, and that you have pressed all the water you can out
of it, you boil it again an hour longer in Milk; out of which when you take
it, to put it into the dish with butter, you do not industriously press out
all the Milk, as you did the water, but only drain it out gently, pressing
it moderately. In the stewing it with butter, season it to your taste,
with what you think fitting.

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS STOCK-FISH

Beat it exceeding well with a large woodden Mallet, till you may easily
pluck it all in pieces, severing every flake from other, and every one of
them in it so being loose, spungy and limber, as the whole fish must be,
and plyant like a glove, which will be in less then an hour. Pull then the
bones out, and throw them away, and pluck off the skin (as whole as you
can; but it will have many breaches and holes in it, by the beating) then
gather all the fish together, and lap it in the skin as well as you can,
into a round lump, like a bag-pudding, and tye it about with cords or
strings (like a little Collar of Brawn, or souced fish) and so put it into
lukewarm water (overnight) to soak, covering the vessel close; but you need
not keep it near any heat whiles it lyeth soaking. Next morning take it out
that water and vessel, and put it into another, with a moderate quantity of
other water, to boil; which it must do very leisurely, and but simpringly.
The main care must be, that the vessel it boileth in, be covered so
exceeding close, that not the least breath of steam get out, else it will
not be tender, but tough and hard. It will be boiled enough, and become
very tender in about a good half hour. Then take it out, unty it, and throw
away the skin, and lay the flaky fish in a Cullender, to drain away the
water from it. You must presently throw a little Salt upon it, and all
about in it, to season it. For then it will imbibe it into it self
presently; whereas if you Salt it not, till it grow cold in the air, it
will not take it in. Mean while prepare your sauce of melted well thickened
butter (which you may heighten with shreded Onions or Syves, or what well
tasted herbs you please) and if you will, you may first strew upon the fish
some very small shreded young Onions, or Sibbouls, or Syves, or Parsley.
Then upon that pour the melted butter to cover the fish all over, and soak
into it. Serve it in warm and covered.

TO DRESS PARSNEPS

Scrape well three or four good large roots, cleansing well their outside,
and cutting off as much of the little end as is Fibrous, and of the great
end as is hard. Put them into a possnet or pot, with about a quart of Milk
upon them, or as much as will cover them in boiling, which do moderately,
till you find they are very tender. This may be in an hour and half, sooner
or later, as the roots are of a good kind. Then take them out, and scrape
all the outside into a pulpe, like the pulpe of roasted apples, which put
in a dish upon a chafing dish of Coals, with a little of the Milk, you
boiled them in, put to them; not so much as to drown them, but only to
imbibe them: and then with stewing, the pulpe will imbibe all that Milk.
When you see it is drunk in, put to the pulpe a little more of the same
Milk, and stew that, till it be drunk in. Continue doing thus till it hath
drunk in a good quantity of the Milk, and is well swelled with it, and will
take in no more, which may be in a good half hour. Eat them so, without
Sugar or Butter; for they will have a natural sweetness, that is beyond
sugar, and will be Unctuous, so as not to need Butter.

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