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TO MAKE HARTS-HORN GELLY

Take a pound of Harts-horn, and a prety big lean Chicken, and put it into a
skillet with about nine quarts of water, and boil your stock prety stiff,
so that you may cut it with a knife; you may try it in a spoon, as it is a
boiling. Then drain your liquor clear away from the Harts-horn through a
fine searse, and let it stand until the next morning; Then if there be any
fat upon it, pare it away, and likewise the settlings at the bottom. Then
put your Gelly into a good big skillet, and put to it a quart of the palest
white-wine that you can procure, or a quart of Rhenish-wine, and one pound
of double refined Sugar, and half an Ounce of Cinnamon broken into small
pieces, with three or four flakes of Mace. Then set it upon the fire, and
boil it a good pace. Then have the whites of sixteen Eggs beaten to a high
froth; so put in the froth of your Eggs, and boil it five or six Walms;
then put in the juyce of six Limons, and boil it a little while after, and
then run it into a silver bason through your gelly-bag: and keep it warm by
the fire, until it have run through the second time. You must observe to
put but a very little into your bag at a time for the second running, that
it may but little more then drop; and it will be so much the clearer: and
you must not remove the whites of Eggs nor Spice out of the bag, all the
while it is running. And if the weather be hot, you need not put in so much
wine; for it will not then be so apt to gelly as in cold weather.


ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE HARTS-HORN-GELLY

Take a small Cock-chick, when it is scalded, slit it in two pieces, lay it
to soak in warm water, until the blood be well out of it. Then take a
calves foot half boiled, slit it in the middle and pick out the fat and
black of it. Put these into a Gallon of fair-water; skim it very well; Then
put into it one Ounce of Harts-horn, and one Ounce of Ivory. When it is
half consumed, take some of it up in a spoon; and if it gelly, take it all
up, and put it into a silver bason, or such a Pewter one as will endure
Char-coal. Then beat four whites of Eggs, with three or four spoonfuls of
Damask-Rose-water very well together. Then put these into the gelly, with a
quarter of an Ounce of Cinnamon broken into very small pieces; one flake of
Mace; three or four thin slices of Ginger; sweeten it with loaf Sugar to
your liking; set it then over a chafing dish of coals; stir it well, and
cover it close; blow under it, until there arise a scum or curd; let it
boil a little, then put into it one top of Rose-mary, two or three of sweet
Marjoram; wring into it the juyce of half a Limon; let not your curd fall
again, for it will spoil the clearness of the gelly. If you will have it
more Cordial, you may grind in a Sawcer, with a little hard Sugar, half a
grain of Musk, a grain of Ambergreece. It must be boiled in an earthen
pipkin, or a very sweet Iron-pot, after the Harts-horn and Ivory is in it.
It must constantly boil, until it gellieth. If there arise any scum, it
must be taken off.


MARMULATE OF PIPPINS

Take the quickest Pippins, when they are newly gathered, and are sharp;
Pare and Core and cut them into half quarters. Put to them their weight of
the finest Sugar in Powder, or broken into little pieces. Put upon these in
your preserving pan, as much fountain water, as will even cover them. Boil
them with a quick-fire, till by trying a little upon a Plate, you find it
gellieth. When it is cold (which may be in less then half an hour) then
take it from the fire, and put into it a little of the yellow rind of
Limons rasped very small, and a little of the Yellow rinde of Oranges
boiled tender (casting away the first waters to correct their bitterness)
and cut into narrow slices (as in the gelly of Pippins) and some
Ambergreece, with a fourth part of Musk, and break the Apples with the back
of your preserving spoon, whiles it cooleth. If you like them sharper, you
may put in a little juyce of Limon, a little before you take the pan from
the fire. When it is cold, put it into pots. This will keep a year or two.

Try if the juyce of Apples (strained out of rasped Apples) in such sort, as
you make Marmulate of Quinces, with the juyce of Quinces, would not be
better, then fair-water, to boil your Apples and Sugar in.


GELLY OF QUINCES

My last Gelly of Quinces I made thus. The Quinces being very ripe, and
having been long gathered, I took the flesh of twelve Quinces in quarters,
and the juyce of fifteen or sixteen others, which made me two pounds of
juyce; And I made a strong decoction of about twenty four others, adding
to these twenty four (to make the decoction the stronger, and more slimy)
the Cores and the Parings of the twelve in quarters; and I used the Cores
sliced and Parings of all these. All this boiled about an hour and half in
eight or ten pound of water; Then I strained and pressed out the decoction
(which was a little viscous, as I desired) and had between 4 and five pound
of strong decoction. To the decoction and Syrup, I put three pound of pure
Sugar, which being dissolved and scummed, I put in the flesh, and in near
an hour of temperate boiling (covered) and often turning the quarters, it
was enough. When it was cold, it was store of firm clear red gelly,
environing in great quantity the quarters, that were also very tender and
well penetrated with the Sugar. I found by this making, that the juyce of
Quinces is not so good to make gelly. It maketh it somewhat running like
Syrup, and tasteth sweetish, mellowy, syrupy.

The Decoction of the flesh is only good for Syrup. I conceive, it would be
a grateful sweetmeat to mingle a good quantity of good gelly with the
Marmulate, when it is ready to put into pots. To that end they must both be
making at the same time: or if one be a little sooner done then the other,
they may be kept a while warm (fit to mingle) without prejudice. Though the
Gelly be cold and settled, it will melt again with the warmth of the
Marmulate, and so mingle with it, and make a Marmulate, that will appear
very gellyish; or peradventure it may be well to fill up a pot or glass
with gelly, when it is first half filled with Marmulate a little cooled.


PRESERVED QUINCE WITH GELLY

When I made Quinces with Gelly, I used the first time these proportions; of
the decoction of Quinces three pound; of Sugar one pound three quarters;
Flesh of Quince two pound and an half; The second time these, of decoction
two pound and an half, Sugar two pound and a quarter, Of flesh two pound
three quarters. I made the decoction by boyling gently each time a dozen or
fourteen Quinces in a Pottle of water, an hour and a half, or two hours, so
that the decoction was very strong of the Quinces. I boiled the parings
(which for that end were pared very thick, after the Quinces were well
wiped) with all the substance of the Quince in thick slices, and part of
the Core (excepting all the Kernels) and then let it run through a loose
Napkin, pressing gently with two plates, that all the decoction might come
out; but be clear without any flesh or mash. The first making I intended
should be red; and therefore both the decoction, and the whole were boiled
covered, and it proved a fine clear red. This boiled above an hour, when
all was in. The other boiled not above half an hour, always uncovered (as
also in making his decoction) and the Gelly was of a fine pale yellow. I
first did put the Sugar upon the fire with the decoction, and as soon as it
was dissolved, I put in the flesh in quarters and halves; and turned the
pieces often in the pan; else the bottom of such as lay long unturned,
would be of a deeper colour then the upper part. The flesh was very tender
and good. I put some of the pieces into Jar-glasses (carefully, not to
break them,) and then poured gelly upon them. Then more pieces, then more
gelly, &c. all having stood a while to cool a little.


TO MAKE FINE WHITE GELLY OF QUINCES

Take Quinces newly from the tree, fair and sound, wipe them clean, and boil
them whole in a large quantity of water, the more the better, and with a
quick fire, till the Quinces crack and are soft, which will be in a good
half hour, or an hour. Then take out the Quinces, and press out their
juyce, with your hands hard, or gently in a press through a strainer, that
only the clear liquor or juyce run out, but none of the pap, or solid and
fleshy substance of the Quince. (The water, they were boiled in, you may
throw away.) This liquor will be slimy and mucilaginous, which proceedeth
much from the seeds that remaining within the Quinces, do contribute to
making this Liquor. Take three pound of it, and one pound of fine Sugar,
and boil them up to a gelly, with a moderate fire, so that they boil every
where, but not violently. They may require near an hours boiling to come to
a gelly. The tryal of that is, to take a tin or silver plate, and wet it
with fair-water, and drop a little of the boiling juyce upon the wet plate;
if it stick to the plate, it is not enough; but if it fall off (when you
slope the Plate) without sticking at all to it, then is it enough: and then
you put it into flat shallow Tin forms, first wetted with cold water, and
let it stand in them four or five hours in a cold place, till it be quite
cold. Then reverse the plates, that it may shale and fall out, and so put
the parcels up in boxes.

Note, you take fountain water, and put the Quinces into it, both of them
being cold. Then set your Kettle to boil with a very quick-fire, that
giveth a clear smart flame to the bottom of the Kettle, which must be
uncovered all the while, that the gelly may prove the whiter; And so
likewise it must be whiles the juyce or expression is boiling with the
Sugar, which must be the finest, that it may not need clarifying with an
Egg; but that little scum that riseth at the sides at the beginning of
moderate boiling must be scummed away. You let your juyce or expression
settle a while, that if any of the thick substance be come out with it, it
may settle to the bottom; for you are to use for this only the clear juyce:
which to have it the clearer, you may let it run through a large, thin,
open, strainer, without pressing it. When you boil the whole Quinces, you
take them out, to strain them as soon as their skins crack, and that they
are quite soft; which will not happen to them all at the same time, but
according to their bigness and ripeness. Therefore first take out and press
those, that are ready first: and the rest still as they grow to a fit state
to press. You shall have more juyce by pressing the Quinces in a torcular,
but it will be clearer, doing it with your hands; both ways, you lap them
in a strainer.


WHITE MARMULATE, THE QUEENS WAY

Take a pound and an half of flesh of Quinces sliced, one pound of Sugar,
and one pound of Liquor (which is a decoction made very strong of Quinces
boiled in fair water). Boil these with a pretty quick fire, till they be
enough, and that you find it gellieth. Then proceed as in my way.


MY LADY OF BATH'S WAY

Take six pounds of flesh of Quince, and two pound of Sugar moistened well
with juyce of Quinces. Boil these together in a fit kettle; first gently,
till the Liquor be sweated out from the quince, and have dissolved all the
Sugar; Then very quick and fast, proceeding as in my way, (bruising the
Quinces with a spoon, &c.) till it be enough. This will be very fine and
quick in taste; but will not keep well beyond Easter. In this course you
may make Marmulate without any juyce or water (by the meer sweeting of the
flesh) if you be careful, proceeding slowly till juyce enough be sweated
out, least else it burn to; and then quick, that the flesh may be boiled
enough, before the Moisture be evaporated away.


PASTE OF QUINCES

Take a quart of the juyce of Quince, and when it is on the fire, put into
it, pared, quartered and Cored as much Quince, as the juyce will cover;
when it is boiled tender, pass the Liquor through a sieve & put the pulp
into a stone Mortar, and beat it very fine with a Woodden Pestel; then
weigh it, and to every pound of pulp, take a quarter of a pound of loaf
Sugar, and boil it up to a candy-height in some of the juyce, which you
passed through the sieve; then put therein your pulp, stirring it well
together, till it hath had one boil and no more; Then drop it on glasses,
or spread it on plates, and set it to dry.

Into the juyce that remains, you may put more flesh of Quinces, and boil it
tender, doing all as at the first. Then adding it (beaten to pulp in a
Mortar) unto the former pulp; repeating this, till you have taken up all
your juyce. Then put your proportion of Sugar to the whole quantity of
pulp, and so make it up into paste, and dry it, and sometimes before a
gentle fire, sometimes in a very moderate stove.


PASTE OF QUINCES WITH VERY LITTLE SUGAR

To one pound of flesh or solid substance of Quinces (when they are pared,
cored, and quartered,) take but a quarter of double refined Sugar. Do thus,
scald your flesh of Quinces in a little of the juyce of other Quinces, that
they may become tender, as if they were coddled.

Then beat them in a mortar to a subtle uniform smooth pulp (which you may
pass through a searce.) In the mean time let your Sugar be dissolved, and
boiling upon the fire. When it is of a candy-height, put the pulp of Quince
to it, and let it remain a little while upon the fire, till it boil up one
little puff or bubbling, and that it is uniformly mixed with the Sugar; you
must stir it well all the while. Then take it off, and drop it into little
Cakes, or put it thin into shallow glasses which you may afterwards cut
into slices. Dry the cakes and slices gently and by degrees in a stove,
turning them often. These will keep all the year, and are very quick of
taste.


ANOTHER PASTE OF QUINCES

Put the Quinces whole into scalding water, and let them boil there, till
they be tender. Then take them out and peel them, and scrape off the pulp,
which pass through a strainer; and when it is cold enough to every pound
put three quarters of a pound of double refined Sugar in subtile powder;
work them well together into an uniform paste; then make little cakes of
it, and dry them in a stove. If you would have the Cakes red, put a little
(very little; the colour will tell you, when it is enough) of juyce of
barberies to the paste or pulp. You have the juyce of Barberries thus: Put
them ripe into a pot over the fire, till you see the juyce sweat out. Then
strain them, and take the clear juyce. If you would have the paste tarter,
you may put a little juyce of Limons to it.

A pleasant Gelly in the beginning of the winter is made, of Pearmains,
Pippins and juyce of Quinces. Also a Marmulate made of those Apples, and
juyce of Quinces, is very good.


A SMOOTHENING QUIDDANY OR GELLY OF THE CORES OF QUINCES

Take only the Cores, and slice them thin, with the seeds in them. If you
have a pound of them, you may put a pottle of water to them. Boil them,
till they be all Mash, and that the water hath drawn the Mucilage out of
them, and that the decoction will be a gelly, when it is cold. Then let it
run through a widestrainer or fitcolender (that the gross part may remain
behind, but all the slyminess go through), and to every pint of Liquor take
about half a pound of double refined Sugar, and boil it up to a gelly. If
you put in a little juyce of Quince, when you boil it up, it will be the
quicker.

You may also take a pound of the flesh of Quinces (when you have not cores
enow, to make as much as you desire) and one ounce of seeds of other
Quinces, and boil them each a part, till the one be a strong decoction; the
other a substantial Mucilage. Then strain each from their course _faeces:_
and mingle the decoctions, and put Sugar to them, and boil them up to a
Gelly.

Or with the flesh and some juyce of Quinces, make Marmulate in the Ordinary
way; which whiles it is boiling, put to it the Mucilage of the seeds to
Incorporate it with the Marmulate. You may take to this a less proportion
of Sugar than to my Marmulate.


MARMULATE OF CHERRIES

Take four pound of the best Kentish Cherries, before they be stoned, to one
pound of pure loaf Sugar, which beat into small Powder: stone the Cherries,
and put them into your preserving pan over a gentle fire, that they may not
boil, but resolve much into Liquor. Take away with the spoon much of the
thin Liquor, (for else the Marmulate will be Glewy) leaving the Cherries
moist enough, but not swimming in clear Liquor. Then put to them half your
Sugar, and boil it up quick, and scum away the froth that riseth. When that
is well Incorporated and clear, strew in a little more of the Sugar; and
continue doing so by little and little, till you have put in all your
Sugar; which course will make the colour the finer. When they are boiled
enough, take them off, and bruise them with the back of a spoon; and when
they are cold, put them up in pots.

You may do the same with Morello Cherries; which will have a quicker-tast,
and have a fine, pure, shining, dark colour.

Both sorts will keep well all the year.


MARMULATE OF CHERRIES WITH JUYCE OF RASPES AND CURRANTS

Mingle juyce of Raspes and red Currants with the stoned Cherries, and boil
this mixture into Marmulate, with a quarter, or at most, a third part of
Sugar. The juyces must be so much as to make Gelly of them to mingle
handsomely with the Cherries, to appear among and between them.

Madam Plancy (who maketh this sweet-meat for the Queen) useth this
proportion. Take three pounds of Cherries stoned; half a pound of clear
juyce of raspes, and one pound of the juyce of red currants, and one pound
of fine Sugar. Put them all together into the preserving pan; boil them
with a quick fire, especially at the first, skimming them all the while, as
any scum riseth. When you find them of a fit consistence, with a fine clear
gelly, mingled with the Cherries, take the preserving pan from the fire,
and braise the Cherries with the back of your preserving spoon; and when
they are of a fit temper of coolness, pot them up.

Peradventure, to keep all the year, there may be requisite a little more
Sugar.


TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT SYRUP OF APPLES

Slice a dozen or twenty Pippins into thin slices, and lay them in a deep
dish, _stratum super stratum,_ with pure double refined Sugar in powder.
Put two or three spoonfuls of water to them, and cover them close with
another dish, luting their joyning that nothing may expire. Then set them
into an oven. And when you take out the dish, you will have an excellent
Syrup, and the remaining substance of the Apples will be insipid.

You may proceed with Damsens, or other plumms, in the same manner, and you
will have excellent stewed Damsens, (as fair as preserved ones) swimming in
a very fine Syrup.


SWEET-MEATS OF MY LADY WINDEBANKS

She maketh the past of Apricocks (which is both very beautiful and clear,
and tasteth most quick of the fruit) thus, Take six pound of pared and
sliced Apricocks, put them into a high pot, which stop close, and set it in
a kettle of boiling water, till you perceive the flesh is all become an
uniform pulp; then put it out into your preserving pan or possenet, and
boil it gently till it be grown thick, stirring it carefully all the while.
Then put two pound of pure Sugar to it, and mingle it well, and let it boil
gently, till you see the matter come to such a thickness and solidity, that
it will not stick to a plate. Then make it up into what form you will. The
like you may do with Raspes or Currants.

It is a pleasant and beautiful sweet meat to do thus: Boil Raspes in such a
pot, till they be all come to such a Liquor; Then let the clear run through
a strainer; to a pound, or English wine pint whereof, put a pound of red
Currants (first stoned and the black ends cut off) and a pound of Sugar.
Boil these, till the Liquor be gellied. Then put it in Glasses. It will
look like Rubies in clear Gelly. You may do the like with Cherries, either
stoned, and the stalks cut off, or three or four capped upon one stalk, and
the stone left in the first, and boiled in Liquor of Raspes.

She makes her curious red Marmulate thus: Take six pounds of Quince-flesh;
six pounds of pure Sugar; and eight pints of juyce; boil this up with quick
fire, till you have scummed it, then pull away all the Coals, and let it
but simper, for four or five hours, remaining covered, renewing from time
to time so little fire, as to cause it so to continue simpring. But as soon
as it is scummed, put into it a handful of Quince kernels, two races of
Ginger sliced, and fourteen or fifteen Cloves whole; all these put into a
Tyffany-bag tyed fast; when you finde that the colour is almost to your
minde, make a quick fire, and boil it up a pace, then throw away your bag
of kernels, Ginger and Cloves, and pot up your Marmulate, when it is cool
enough.

She makes her red Gelly of Quince thus: Put the Quinces pared and sliced
into a pot, as above; and to every pound of this flesh put about half a
demistier of fair water, and put this into a kettle of boiling water, till
you perceive all the juyce is boiled out of the Quince. Then strain it out,
and boil this Liquor (which will not yet be clear) till you perceive it
gellieth upon a plate. Then to every pint of Liquor put a pound of Sugar,
and boil it up to a gelly, skimming it well, as the scum riseth, and you
will have a pure gelly.


GELLY OF RED CURRANTS

Take them clean picked, and fresh gathered in the morning, in a bason, set
them over the fire, that their juyce may sweat out, pressing them all the
while with the back of your preserving spoon, to squeese out of them all
that is good. When you see all is out, strain the Liquor from them, and let
it stand to settle four or five hours, that the gross matter may sink to
the bottom. Then take the pure clear, (the thick settling will serve to add
in making of Marmulate of Cherries, or the like) and to every pint or pound
of it, put three quarters of a pound of the purest refined Sugar, and boil
them up with a quick fire, till they come to a gelly height (which will be
done immediately in less then a quarter of an hour) which you may try with
a drop upon a plate. Then take it off, and when it is cold enough, put it
into Glasses. You must be careful to skim it well in due time, and with
thin brown Paper to take off the froth, if you will be so curious.


GELLY OF CURRANTS, WITH THE FRUIT WHOLE IN IT

Take four pound of good Sugar, clarifie it with whites of Eggs, then boil
it up to a candid height (that is, till throwing it, it goeth into
flakes): Then put into it five pound (or at discretion) of pure juyce of
red Currants first boiled to clarifie it by skimming it. Boil them together
a little while, till it be well scummed, and enough to become gelly. Then
put a good handful or two of the berries of Currants whole, and cleansed
from the stalks and black ends, and boil them a little till they be enough.

You need not to boil the juyce, before you put it to the Sugar, and
consequently do not scum it before the Sugar and it boil together: but then
scum it perfectly: and take care before, that the juyce be very clear and
well strained.


MARMULATE OF RED CURRANTS

Take some juyce of red Currants, and put into it a convenient proportion of
some entire Currants cleansed from the stalks and buttons at the other end.
Let these boil a little together. Have also ready some fine Sugar boiled to
a candy height. Put of this to the Currants at discretion, and boil them
together, till they be enough: and bruise them with the back of your spoon,
that they may be in the consistence of Marmulate (like that of Cherries)
which put in pots, when it is cool enough. You do not stone the whole
Currants put into the juyce, unless you please.


SUCKET OF MALLOW STALKS

To candy or preserve the tender stalks of Mallows, do thus; Take them in
the spring, when they are very young and tender; and peel off the strings
that are round about the outside, as you do French-beans, and boil them,
till they are very tender. In the mean time prepare a high Syrup of pure
Sugar, and put the boiled stalkes into it, whiles it is boiling hot, but
taken from the fire. Let them lie soaking there till the next morning. Then
take out the stalks, and heat the Syrup again, scalding hot, and return the
stalks into it, letting them lie there till next morning; (Note, that the
stalks must never boil in the Syrup,) Repeat this six, or eight, or nine
times, that is to say, till they are sufficiently Imbibed with the Syrup.
When they are at this pass, you may either keep them as a wet sucket in
Syrup, or dry them in a stove upon Papers, turning them continually, in
such sort as dried sweet-meats are to be made. I like them best dry, but
soft and moist within _(Medullosi)_ like Candied Eryngos. In Italy they eat
much of them, for sharpness and heat of Urine, and in Gonorrhoea's to take
away pain in Urining.

A Sucket is made in like manner of the Carneous substance of stalks of
Lettice. It is the knob, out of which the Lettice groweth, which being
pared, and all the tough rind being taken off, is very tender and so it is
a pretty way downwards the root. This also is very cooling and smoothing.

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