Meriwether Lewis and William Clark - History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.

M >> Meriwether Lewis and William Clark >> History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.

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Friday, 16. As neither our party nor the Indians had any thing to eat,
captain Lewis sent two of his hunters ahead this morning to procure some
provision: at the same time he requested Cameahwait to prevent his young
men from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm the game; but
this measure immediately revived their suspicions: it now began to
be believed that these men were sent forward in order to apprise the
enemy of their coming, and as captain Lewis was fearful of exciting any
further uneasiness, he made no objection on seeing a small party of
Indians go on each side of the valley under pretence of hunting, but
in reality to watch the movements of our two men: even this precaution
however did not quiet the alarms of the Indians, a considerable part of
whom returned home, leaving only twenty-eight men and three women. After
the hunters had been gone about an hour, captain Lewis again mounted
with one of the Indians behind him, and the whole party set out; but
just as they passed through the narrows they saw one of the spies coming
back at full speed across the plain: the chief stopped and seemed
uneasy, the whole band were moved with fresh suspicions, and captain
Lewis himself was much disconcerted, lest by some unfortunate accident
some of their enemies might have perhaps straggled that way. The young
Indian had scarcely breath to say a few words as he came up, when the
whole troop dashed forward as fast as their horses could carry them, and
captain Lewis astonished at this movement was borne along for nearly a
mile before he learnt with great satisfaction that it was all caused
by the spy's having come to announce that one of the white men had
killed a deer. Relieved from his anxiety he now found the jolting very
uncomfortable; for the Indian behind him being afraid of not getting his
share of the feast had lashed the horse at every step since they set
off; he therefore reined him in and ordered the Indian to stop beating
him. The fellow had no idea of losing time in disputing the point,
and jumping off the horse ran for a mile at full speed. Captain Lewis
slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance to observe
them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out the
intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over each
other like famished dogs: each tore away whatever part he could and
instantly began to eat it; some had the liver, some the kidneys, in
short no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped
them: one of them who had seized about nine feet of the entrails was
chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently clearing his
way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed impossible
to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of animals, and
the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the
condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation: yet though
suffering with hunger they did not attempt, as they might have done, to
take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had
been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned,
and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to the
chief to be divided among the Indians, who immediately devoured nearly
the whole of it without cooking. They now went forward towards the creek
where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer who had
killed a second deer: the same struggle for the entrails was renewed
here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured
it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire being made captain Lewis
had his breakfast, during which Drewyer brought in a third deer: this
too, after reserving one quarter, was given to the Indians, who now
seemed completely satisfied and in good humour. At this place they
remained about two hours to let the horses graze, and then continued
their journey, and towards evening reached the lower part of the cove
having on the way shot an antelope, the greater part of which was given
to the Indians. As they were now approaching the place where they had
been told by Captain Lewis they would see the white men, the chief
insisted on halting: they therefore all dismounted, and Cameahwait with
great ceremony and as if for ornament, put tippets or skins round the
necks of our party, similar to those worn by themselves. As this was
obviously intended to disguise the white men, captain Lewis in order to
inspire them with more confidence put his cocked hat and feather on the
head of the chief, and as his own over-shirt was in the Indian form, and
his skin browned by the sun, he could not have been distinguished from
an Indian: the men followed his example, and the change seemed to be
very agreeable* to the Indians.

In order to guard however against any disappointment captain Lewis again
explained the possibility of our not having reached the forks in
consequence of the difficulty of the navigation, so that if they should
not find us at that spot they might be assured of our not being far
below. They again all mounted their horses and rode on rapidly, making
one of the Indians carry their flag, so that we might recognise them as
they approached us; but to the mortification and disappointment of both
parties on coming within two miles of the forks, no canoes were to be
seen. Uneasy lest at this moment he should be abandoned, and all his
hopes of obtaining aid from the Indians be destroyed, captain Lewis gave
the chief his gun, telling him that if the enemies of his nation were in
the bushes he might defend himself with it; that for his own part he was
not afraid to die, and that the chief might shoot him as soon as they
discovered themselves betrayed. The other three men at the same time
gave their guns to the Indians, who now seemed more easy, but still
wavered in their resolutions. As they went on towards the point, captain
Lewis perceiving how critical his situation had become, resolved to
attempt a stratagem which his present difficulty seemed completely to
justify. Recollecting the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent
Drewyer for them with an Indian who witnessed his taking them from the
pole. When they were brought, captain Lewis told Cameahwait that on
leaving his brother chief at the place where the river issues from the
mountains, it was agreed that the boats should not be brought higher
than the next forks we should meet; but that if the rapid water
prevented the boats from coming on as fast as they expected, his brother
chief was to send a note to the first forks above him to let him know
where the boats were; that this note had been left this morning at the
forks, and mentioned that the canoes were just below the mountains, and
coming slowly up in consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added,
that he would stay at the forks for his brother chief, but would send a
man down the river, and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of
their young men would go with him whilst he and the other two remained
at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the
Indians, but a few did not conceal their suspicion, observing that we
told different stories, and complaining that the chief exposed them to
danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote by the light of
some willow brush a note to captain Clarke, which he gave to Drewyer,
with an order to use all possible expedition in ascending the river, and
engaged an Indian to accompany him by a promise of a knife and some
beads. At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of
captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the
willow brush to avoid the enemy, who they feared would attack them in
the night. Captain Lewis endeavoured to assume a cheerfulness he did not
feel to prevent the despondency of the savages: after conversing gayly
with them he retired to his musquitoe bier, by the side of which the
chief now placed himself: he lay down, yet slept but little, being in
fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was
apprehensive that finding the ascent of the river impracticable, captain
Clarke might have stopped below the Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger
would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the Indians at this
moment would most probably be, that they would retire and secrete
themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having an opportunity
of recovering their confidence: they would also spread a panic through
all the neighbouring Indians, and cut us off from the supply of horses
so useful and almost so essential to our success: he was at the same
time consoled by remembering that his hopes of assistance rested on
better foundations than their generosity--their avarice, and their
curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their horses; but what
was still move seductive, he had told them that one of their
country-women who had been taken with the Minnetarees accompanied the
party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having with
us a man perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. This last
account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed more
desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favourable
barter for their horses.

In the meantime we had set out after breakfast, and although we
proceeded with more ease than we did yesterday, the river was still so
rapid and shallow as to oblige us to drag the large canoes during the
greater part of the day. For the first seven miles the river formed a
bend to the right so as to make our advance only three miles in a
straight line; the stream is crooked, narrow, small, and shallow, with
highlands occasionally on the banks, and strewed with islands, four of
which are opposite to each other. Near this place we left the valley, to
which we gave the name of Serviceberry valley, from the abundance of
that fruit now ripe which is found in it. In the course of the four
following miles we passed several more islands and bayous on each side
of the river, and reached a high cliff on the right. Two and a half
miles beyond this the cliffs approach on both sides and form a very
considerable rapid near the entrance of a bold running stream on the
left. The water was now excessively cold, and the rapids had been
frequent and troublesome. On ascending an eminence captain Clarke saw
the forks of the river and sent the hunters up. They must have left it
only a short time before captain Lewis's arrival, but fortunately had
not seen the note which enabled him to induce the Indians to stay with
him. From the top of this eminence he could discover only three trees
through the whole country, nor was there along the sides of the cliffs
they had passed in the course of the day, any timber except a few small
pines: the low grounds were supplied with willow, currant bushes, and
serviceberries. After advancing half a mile further we came to the lower
point of an island near the middle of the river, and about the centre of
the valley: here we halted for the night, only four miles by land,
though ten by water, below the point where captain Lewis lay. Although
we had made only fourteen miles, the labours of the men had fatigued and
exhausted them very much: we therefore collected some small willow brush
for a fire, and lay down to sleep.

CHAPTER XV.

Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of
the Shoshonees--Council held with that nation, and favourable
result--The extreme navigable point of the Missouri
mentioned--General character of the river and of the country
through which it passes--Captain Clarke in exploring the source of
the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees--The
geographical information acquired from one of that party--Their
manner of catching fish--The party reach Lewis river--The
difficulties which captain Clarke had to encounter in his
route--Friendship and hospitality of the Shoshonees--The party with
captain Lewis employed in making saddles, and preparing for the
journey.

Saturday, August 17. Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched
Drewyer and the Indian down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was
sent out at the same time to hunt, while M'Neal prepared a breakfast out
of the remainder of the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and
the Indians were all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian who
had straggled a short distance down the river, returned with a report
that he had seen the white men, who were only a short distance below,
and were coming on. The Indians were all transported with joy, and the
chief in the warmth of his satisfaction renewed his embrace to captain
Lewis, who was quite as much delighted as the Indians themselves; the
report proved most agreeably true. On setting out at seven o'clock,
captain Clarke with Chaboneau and his wife walked on shore, but they had
not gone more than a mile before captain Clarke saw Sacajawea, who was
with her husband one hundred yards ahead, began to dance, and show every
mark of the most extravagant joy, turning round him and pointing to
several Indians, whom he now saw advancing on horseback, sucking her
fingers at the same time to indicate that they were of her native tribe.
As they advanced captain Clarke discovered among them Drewyer dressed
like an Indian, from whom he learnt the situation of the party. While
the boats were performing the circuit, he went towards the forks with
the Indians, who as they went along, sang aloud with the greatest
appearance of delight. We soon drew near to the camp, and just as we
approached it a woman made her way through the crowd towards Sacajawea,
and recognising each other, they embraced with the most tender
affection. The meeting of these two young women had in it something
peculiarly touching, not only in the ardent manner in which their
feelings were expressed, but from the real interest of their situation.
They had been companions in childhood, in the war with the Minnetarees
they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle, they had shared
and softened the rigours of their captivity, till one of them had
escaped from the Minnetarees, with scarce a hope of ever seeing her
friend relieved from the hands of her enemies. While Sacajawea was
renewing among the women the friendships of former days, captain Clarke
went on, and was received by captain Lewis and the chief, who after the
first embraces and salutations were over, conducted him to a sort of
circular tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on a white robe;
and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells resembling
pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, who procured them in
the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole party
were then taken off, and after much ceremony the smoking began. After
this the conference was to be opened, and glad of an opportunity of
being able to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for; she
came into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in
the person of Cameahwait she recognised her brother: she instantly
jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket and
weeping profusely; the chief was himself moved, though not in the same
degree. After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, and
attempted to interpret for us, but her new situation seemed to
overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After
the council was finished, the unfortunate woman learnt that all her
family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son
of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.
The canoes arriving soon after, we formed a camp in a meadow on the left
side, a little below the forks; took out our baggage, and by means of
our sails and willow poles formed a canopy for our Indian visitors.
About four o'clock the chiefs and warriors were collected, and after the
customary ceremony of taking off the moccasins and smoking a pipe, we
explained to them in a long harangue the purposes of our visit, making
themselves one conspicuous object of the good wishes of our government,
on whose strength as well as its friendly disposition we expatiated. We
told them of their dependance on the will of our government for all
future supplies of whatever was necessary either for their comfort or
defence; that as we were sent to discover the best route by which
merchandize could be conveyed to them, and no trade would be begun
before our return, it was mutually advantageous that we should proceed
with as little delay as possible; that we were under the necessity of
requesting them to furnish us with horses to transport our baggage
across the mountains, and a guide to show us the route, but that they
should be amply remunerated for their horses, as well as for every other
service they should render us. In the meantime our first wish was, that
they should immediately collect as many horses as were necessary to
transport our baggage to their village, where, at our leisure we would
trade with them for as many horses as they could spare.

The speech made a favourable impression: the chief in reply thanked us
for our expressions of friendship towards himself and his nation, and
declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that
it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, but
that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He
concluded by saying that there were not horses here sufficient to
transport our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow,
and bring all his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with
theirs. The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired
of Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two
of them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal
of the small size, with the likeness of president Jefferson, and on the
reverse a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk: to this was
added an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot of
tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a
small medal struck during the presidency of general Washington, a shirt,
handkerchief, leggings, a knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same
sort were also presented to two young warriors, who though not chiefs
were promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These
honorary gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls,
knives, beads and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful
meal of Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in
lye; and as this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much
pleased with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surprise in all
they saw: the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the
canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all
in turn shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a
shot from the airgun: this operation was instantly considered as a
_great medicine_, by which they as well as the other Indians mean
something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his
invisible and incomprehensible agency. The display of all these riches
had been intermixed with inquiries into the geographical situation of
their country; for we had learnt by experience, that to keep the savages
in good temper their attention should not be wearied with too much
business; but that the serious affairs should be enlivened by a mixture
of what is new and entertaining. Our hunters brought in very seasonably
four deer and an antelope, the last of which we gave to the Indians, who
in a very short time devoured it. After the council was over, we
consulted as to our future operations. The game does not promise to last
here for a number of days, and this circumstance combined with many
others to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our Indian
information as to the state of the Columbia is of a very alarming kind,
and our first object is of course to ascertain the practicability of
descending it, of which the Indians discourage our expectations. It was
therefore agreed that captain Clarke should set off in the morning with
eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes;
that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the
Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the
collection of horses; that he was then to lead his men down to the
Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in sufficient
quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided as to the
propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the mountains, he
was to send back one of the men with information of it to captain Lewis,
who by that time would have brought up the whole party, and the rest of
the baggage as far as the Shoshonee village.

Preparations were accordingly made this evening for such an arrangement.
The sun is excessively hot in the day time, but the nights very cold,
and rendered still more unpleasant from the want of any fuel except
willow brush. The appearances too of game, for many days' subsistence,
are not very favourable.

Sunday 18. In order to relieve the men of captain Clarke's party from
the heavy weight of their arms provisions and tools, we exposed a few
articles to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones,
in exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few
handkerchiefs, three knifes and some other small articles, the whole of
which did not in the United States cost more than twenty dollars: a
fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of
old leggings and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased
as ourselves at the bargains they had made. We now found that the two
inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a
present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress
so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on
them two old coats, and promised them that if they were active in
assisting us across the mountains they should have an additional
present. This treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian
party, except two men and two women, set out in perfect good humour to
return home with captain Clarke. After going fifteen miles through a
wide level valley with no wood but willows and shrubs, he encamped in
the Shoshonee cove near a narrow pass where the highlands approach
within two hundred yards of each other, and the river is only ten yards
wide. The Indians went on further, except the three chiefs and two young
men, who assisted in eating two deer brought in by the hunters. After
their departure every thing was prepared for the transportation of the
baggage, which was now exposed to the air and dried. Our game was one
deer and a beaver, and we saw an abundance of trout in the river for
which we fixed a net in the evening.

We have now reached the extreme navigable point of the Missouri, which
our observation places in latitude 43 degrees 30' 43" north. It is
difficult to comprise in any general description the characteristics of
a river so extensive, and fed by so many streams which have their
sources in a great variety of soils and climates. But the Missouri is
still sufficiently powerful to give to all its waters something of a
common character, which is of course decided by the nature of the
country through which it passes. The bed of the river is chiefly
composed of a blue mud from which the water itself derives a deep
tinge. From its junction here to the place near which it leaves the
mountains, its course is embarrassed by rapids and rocks which the hills
on each side have thrown into its channel. From that place, its current,
with the exception of the falls, is not difficult of navigation, nor is
there much variation in its appearance till the mouth of the Platte.
That powerful river throws out vast quantities of coarse sand which
contribute to give a new face to the Missouri, which is now much more
impeded by islands. The sand, as it is drifted down, adheres in time to
some of the projecting points from the shore, and forms a barrier to the
mud, which at length fills to the same height with the sandbar itself;
as soon as it has acquired a consistency, the willow grows there the
first year, and by its roots assists the solidity of the whole: as the
mud and sand accumulate the cottonwood tree next appears; till the
gradual excretion of soils raises the surface of the point above the
highest freshets. Thus stopped in its course the water seeks a passage
elsewhere, and as the soil on each side is light and yielding, what was
only a peninsula, becomes gradually an island, and the river indemnifies
itself for the usurpation by encroaching on the adjacent shore. In this
way the Missouri like the Mississippi is constantly cutting off the
projections of the shore, and leaving its ancient channel, which is then
marked by the mud it has deposited and a few stagnant ponds.

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