Meriwether Lewis and William Clark - History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.

M >> Meriwether Lewis and William Clark >> History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. I.

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August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the men who had been
sent from the Maha village with our horses, and who brought us two deer.
The bluffs or hills which reach the river at this place, on the south,
contain allum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft
isinglass, pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this
bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek.
Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of allum rock, of
a dark brown colour, containing in its crevices great quantities of
cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the
eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We
sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp
on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numerous: there are also
considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in
proving the quality of some of the substances in the first cliff, was
considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some
strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance of these
mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach,
with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux.
We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river
inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness
was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water
along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded
from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the
bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the
water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that
these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the men, were
not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of
sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick
Gass having the greatest number of votes was made a sergeant.

August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run
between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon
changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly;
the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we could
scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a
willow island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the south
side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and
delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe prairie, from our having
here killed the first buffaloe. Two elk swam the river to-day and were
fired at, but escaped: a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was
killed; and several prairie wolves were seen.

August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we
proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a
bluff of blue clay, about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and
ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and
even now the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it at
any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also great
quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling it. There is
a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, except that it is double
the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of
a delicious flavour; its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then
passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on
the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The
beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed into one of greater height,
and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and
a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.

CHAP. III.

Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians--Council
held with the Sioux--Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.--A
ridiculous instance of their heroism--Ancient
fortifications--Quieurre river described--Vast herds of
Buffaloe--Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog--Narrow escape
of George Shannon--Description of Whiteriver--Surprising fleetness
of the Antelope--Pass the river of the Sioux--Description of the
Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend--Encamp on the Teton river.

August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, went to see an
object deemed very extraordinary among all the neighbouring Indians.
They dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone river, about thirty yards
wide, where they left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred
yards, ascended a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself as
far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, they crossed the
creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, and waters an extensive
valley. The heat was so oppressive that we were obliged to send back our
dog to the creek, as he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not
till after four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.
This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. 20 degrees W.
from the month of Whitestone river, from which it is nine miles distant.
The base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being
about three hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the
longest side it rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to
the height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level
plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. The north and
south extremities are connected by two oval borders which serve as new
bases, and divide the whole side into three steep but regular gradations
from the plain. The only thing characteristic in this hill is its
extreme symmetry, and this, together with its being totally detached
from the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine miles,
would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the earth and the
loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged exactly like the steep
grounds on the borders of the creek, we concluded from this similarity
of texture that it might be natural. But the Indians have made it a
great article of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little
People, or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of
little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches high and with
remarkably large heads; they are armed with sharp arrows, with which
they are very skilful, and are always on the watch to kill those who
should have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tradition is,
that many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among
others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since.
This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and
Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to
visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits; nor any
place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top: we were
happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on
the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads
itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. hills at a great distance,
and those of N.E. still farther off, enlivened by large herds of
buffaloe feeding at a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly
fine; there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the wood
of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover thickly one
hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds this mound has
contributed not a little to its bad reputation: the wind driving from
every direction over the level ground obliges the insects to seek
shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against us by the wind. The
small birds, whose food they are, resort of course in great numbers in
quest of subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual
assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural cause: among them
we observed the brown martin employed in looking for insects, and so
gentle that they did not fly until we got within a few feet of them. We
have also distinguished among numerous birds of the plain, the
blackbird, the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about the
size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat and thirst
forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the nearest water, which
we found in the creek, at three miles distance, and remained an hour and
a half. We then went down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in
width, and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached it
in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious plums, grapes and blue
currants, and afterwards arrived at the mouth of the river about sunset.
To this place the course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine
miles; we there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment of
last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of our approach.
In the mean time, the boat under serjeant Pryor had proceeded in the
afternoon one mile, to a bluff of blue clay on the south, and after
passing a sandbar and two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance
of six miles on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had killed
a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught some large
catfish.

Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock before she set
out, and then passing by an island, and under a cliff on the south,
nearly two miles in extent and composed of white and blue earth,
encamped at nine miles distance, on a sandbar towards the north.
Opposite to this, on the south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or
Little Bow, and a short distance above it, an old village of the same
name. This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of earth
about four feet high surrounding it, was built by a Maha chief named
Little Bow, who being displeased with Blackbird, the late king, seceded
with two hundred followers and settled at this spot, which is now
abandoned, as the two villages have reunited since the death of
Blackbird. We have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;
two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species being
longer than the other; and a third round and red: all have an excellent
flavour, particularly those of the yellow kind.

August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than usual. A gentle
breeze from the southeast carried us by some large sandbars, on both
sides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at
seven and a half miles distant; this bluff is of white clay or chalk,
under which is much stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance,
supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the
prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a half miles, we
had passed several other sandbars, and now reached the mouth of a river
called by the French Jacques (James river) or Yankton, from the tribe
which inhabits its banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the
confluence: the country which it waters is rich prairie, with little
timber: it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be
navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of St.
Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. As we
came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat; and, on our
landing, we were met by two others, who informed us that a large body of
Sioux were encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, with an
invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the third Indian
remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and says that his nation have gone
to the Pawnees to make peace with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped
on a sandbar to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the
wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen gradually, and
is now low.

Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the south, several
sandbars. On the south is a prairie which rises gradually from the water
to the height of a bluff, which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish
colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another
bluff, of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of
eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the south
side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait the
arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and
joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues
ran upon a log in the river, and was rendered unfit for service; so that
all our loading was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the
river are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there is
more timber in the points and valleys than we have been accustomed to
see.

Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and rain last evening;
and were engaged during the day in repairing the periogue, and other
necessary occupations; when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant
Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five
chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat for them, and
they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the son of our interpreter, who
happened to be trading with the Sioux at this time. He returned with
sergeant Pryor to the Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a
few kettles; and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the
morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their village, which
is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he was met by a party with a
buffaloe robe, on which they desired to carry their visitors: an honour
which they declined, informing the Indians that they were not the
commanders of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then
presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook
heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of the Sioux are of a
conical form, covered with buffaloe robes, painted with various figures
and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through.
The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior
arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a place for
cooking detached from it.

August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the
Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared off about eight
o'clock. We prepared a speech, and some presents, and then sent for the
chiefs and warriors, whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large
oak tree, near to which the flag of the United States was flying.
Captain Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and counsel for
their future conduct. We then acknowledged their chiefs, by giving to
the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, with a string of wampum;
to which we added a chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the
United States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. One
second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised by medals,
and a suitable present of tobacco, and articles of clothing. We then
smoked the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of
bushes, by their young men, where they divided among each other the
presents, and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer which
they were to make us to-morrow. The young people exercised their bows
and arrows in shooting at marks for beads, which we distributed to the
best marksmen; and in the evening the whole party danced until a late
hour, and in the course of their amusement we threw among them some
knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they were much
pleased. Their musical instruments were the drum, and a sort of little
bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed white, with small shot or pebbles in
it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling
music, with which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the
council this morning.

August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down
in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed
towards the seats intended for captains Lewis and Clarke. When they
arrived and were seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,
in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur (the
deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving what we had said,
and promising to follow our advice:

"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. You see me, and
the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither
powder nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village
have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a
medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop
and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring
chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them;
but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for
they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to
your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I
went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes:
when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it
from my skin; but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are
poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws."

"When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:

"I have listened," said he, "to what our father's words were yesterday;
and I am, to-day, glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a
young man, and do not wish to take much: my fathers have made me a
chief: I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever.
What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and
you please: but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very
poor."

Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said;

"I am a young man, and know but little: I cannot speak well; but I have
listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you
agree."

The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.

We were surprised at finding that the first of these titles means
"Struck by the Pawnee," and was occasioned by some blow which the chief
had received in battle, from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second is, in
English, "Half Man," which seems a singular name for a warrior, till it
was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the chief;
who, on being told of his exploits, would say, "I am no warrior: I am
only half a man." The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they had
finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared
he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes
and Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these
harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they
begged us to have pity on them: to send them traders: that they wanted
powder and ball; and seemed anxious that we should supply them with
some of their great father's milk, the name by which they distinguish
ardent spirits. We then gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a
certificate to two of the warriors who attended the chief. We prevailed
on Mr. Durion to remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs
as he could collect, down to the seat of government. We also gave his
son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions to bring about
a peace between the surrounding tribe, and to convey some of their
chiefs to see the president. In the evening they left us, and encamped
on the opposite bank, accompanied by the two Durions. During the evening
and night we had much rain, and observed that the river rises a little.
The Indians, who have just left us, are the Yanktons, a tribe of the
great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in
number; and inhabit the Jacques, Desmoines, and Sioux rivers. In person
they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and
boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of
the nation whom we saw, and will describe afterwards: they are fond of
decorations, and use paint, and porcupine quills, and feathers. Some of
them wore a kind of necklace of white bear's claws, three inches long,
and closely strung together round their necks. They have only a few
fowling pieces, being generally armed with bows and arrows, in which,
however, they do not appear as expert as the more northern Indians. What
struck us most was an institution, peculiar to them, and to the Kite
Indians, further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been
copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men,
who are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to
retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go
forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their
natural valour by any artifice. This punctilious determination, not to
be turned from their course, became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time
since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole
lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided,
by going round. This the foremost of the band disdained to do; but went
straight forward, and was lost. The others would have followed his
example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These
young men sit, and encamp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of
the nation: they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old;
and such is the deference paid to courage, that their seats in council
are superior to those of the chiefs, and their persons more respected.
But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the
numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to
four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of
twenty-two, who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with
the Kite Indians, of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were killed,
and these four were dragged from the field by their companions.

Whilst these Indians remained with us we made very minute inquiries
relative to their situation and numbers, and trade, and manners. This we
did very satisfactorily, by means of two different interpreters; and
from their accounts, joined to our interviews with other bands of the
same nation, and much intelligence acquired since, we were enabled to
understand, with some accuracy, the condition of the Sioux hitherto so
little known.

The Sioux, or Dacorta Indians, originally settled on the Mississippi,
and called by Carver, Madowesians, are now subdivided into tribes, as
follow:

First, The Yanktons: this tribe inhabits the Sioux, Desmoines, and
Jacques rivers, and number about two hundred warriors.

Second, The Tetons of the burnt woods. This tribe numbers about three
hundred men, who rove on both sides of the Missouri, the White, and
Teton rivers.

Third. The Tetons Okandandas, a tribe consisting of about one hundred
and fifty men, who inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the Chayenne
river.

Fourth, Tetons Minnakenozzo, a nation inhabiting both sides of the
Missouri, above the Chayenne river, and containing about two hundred and
fifty men.

Fifth, Tetons Saone; these inhabit both sides of the Missouri below the
Warreconne river, and consist of about three hundred men.

Sixth, Yanktons of the Plains, or Big Devils; who rove on the heads of
the Sioux, Jacques, and Red river; the most numerous of all the tribes,
and number about five hundred men.

Seventh, Wahpatone; a nation residing on the St. Peter's, just above the
mouth of that river, and numbering two hundred men.

Eighth, Mindawarcarton, or proper Dacorta or Sioux Indians. These
possess the original seat of the Sioux, and are properly so denominated.
They rove on both sides of the Mississippi, about the falls of St.
Anthony, and consist of three hundred men.

Ninth, The Wahpatoota, or Leaf Beds. This nation inhabits both sides of
the river St. Peter's, below Yellow-wood river, amounting to about one
hundred and fifty men.

Tenth, Sistasoone: this nation numbers two hundred men, and reside at
the head of the St. Peter's. Of these several tribes, more particular
notice will be taken hereafter.

Saturday, September 1, 1804. We proceeded this morning under a light
southern breeze, and passed the Calumet bluffs; these are composed of
a yellowish red, and brownish clay as hard as chalk, which it much
resembles, and are one hundred and seventy, or one hundred and eighty
feet high. At this place the hills on each side come to the verge of the
river, those on the south being higher than on the north. Opposite the
bluffs is a large island covered with timber; above which the highlands
form a cliff over the river on the north side, called White Bear cliff;
an animal of that kind being killed in one of the holes in it, which
are numerous and apparently deep. At six miles we came to a large sand
island covered with cottonwood; the wind was high, and the weather rainy
and cloudy during the day. We made fifteen miles to a place on the north
side, at the lower point of a large island called Bonhomme, or Goodman's
island. The country on both sides has the same character of prairies,
with no timber; with occasional lowlands covered with cottonwood, elm
and oak: our hunters had killed an elk and a beaver: the catfish too are
in great abundance.

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