Sutton and Sons - The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

S >> Sutton and Sons >> The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

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Keep the ground clean, and before the flowering stage is reached gently
stir the surface, but not deep enough to injure the roots. An occasional
application of weak manure water will be advantageous, but it must not
be allowed to touch the foliage.

For tall varieties it may be needful to provide support. If so, place a
neat stick on that side of the plant towards which it leans, as this
takes the strain off the tying material, and saves the plant from being
cut or half-strangled. In a dry season, and especially on light soils,
there must be a bountiful supply of soft water, alternated every few
days with the manure water already alluded to. Evening is the best time
to apply it.

For show purposes rather more room is required than we have stated. Only
about five buds should be matured by each plant, and these, of course,
the finest. To prepare flowers for exhibition is in itself an art, and
each cultivator must be guided by his own resources and experience.

Asters in pots make excellent decorative subjects. It is only necessary
to lift them carefully from the borders with balls of earth surrounding
the roots, and pot them just before the buds expand, or they may be
potted up while in full flower without flagging.

The plants are liable to the attacks of aphis, both green and black.
While under glass the pests can be destroyed by fumigation; but in the
open a solution of some good insecticide may be administered with the
syringe at intervals of about three days, until a clearance is effected.
Other foes are the various grubs which attack plants at the collar. On
the first sign of failing vigour, gently remove with a pointed stick the
soil around the plant, and in doing this avoid any needless disturbance
of the roots. Do not be satisfied until the enemy is destroyed.

==AUBRIETIA==

==Hardy perennial==

In the early months of the year few subjects in the garden present so
gay an appearance as Aubrietias, for with the first approach of genial
weather the cushion-like plants burst into a mass of delightful blossom.
For spring bedding, edgings, and the rock garden Aubrietias are
indispensable, and they make a particularly effective show when grown in
conjunction with Yellow Alyssum and White Arabis. Aubrietias are easily
grown from seed sown in May and June. The plants are best raised in pans
of light rich soil and may be put out in autumn where required to flower
in the following spring.

==AURICULA==

==Primula Auricula. Hardy perennial==

Keen is the enthusiasm of the Auricula amateur. The only complaint we
ever heard about the flower is that its most devoted admirer cannot
endow it with perpetual youth and beauty.

It is well to bear in mind that seed from a worthless strain requires
just as much attention as that which is saved with all a florist's skill
from prize flowers. Some growers advocate sowing immediately the seed is
ripe, but this intensifies the irregular germination that characterises
seed of all the Primula species. Either February, March, or April may be
chosen, and we give preference to the end of February. Use six-inch
pots, and as there must be no doubt about drainage, nearly half-fill the
pots with crocks, cover with a good layer of rough fibrous loam mingled
with broken charcoal, and on the top a mixture of loam, decayed leaves,
and sharp sand. Press the soil firmly down; sow thinly and regularly,
putting the seeds in about half an inch apart; just cover them with fine
soil, and place the pots in a cool frame or greenhouse, with sheets of
glass over to prevent evaporation. Watering in the ordinary way is apt
to wash out the seeds, and it is therefore advisable to immerse the pots
in a vessel containing water until the soil has become saturated. Wait
patiently for the plants. When they show four or six leaves, prick out
into pans or boxes about two inches apart, and before the seedlings
touch each other transfer to small pots. The surface soil in the pots
may be lightly stirred occasionally to keep it free from moss. The
plants must never be allowed to go dry, but as winter approaches water
should be given more sparingly, and during sharp frosts it may be wise
to withhold it entirely. There really is no need of artificial heat, for
the Auricula is a mountaineer, and can endure both frost and snow. But
we prize its beauty so highly that frames and greenhouses are properly
employed for protecting it from wind, heavy rain, soot, dust, and all
the unkind assaults of a lowland atmosphere, to which it is unaccustomed
in a natural state. Still, the plants should be kept as nearly hardy as
possible.

The Auricula is a slow-growing plant, and although there will probably
be some flowers from seedlings in the second year, their value must not
be judged until the following season. To the trained eye of the florist
the Show Auriculas take precedence over the Alpine section; but for
general usefulness the Alpines hold the first place. They may be
fearlessly put into the open border, and especially the north border,
where, with scarcely any care at all, they will endure the winter, and
freely show their lovely flowers in spring.

==BALSAM==

==Impatiens Balsamina. Half-hardy annual==

The older methods of growing Balsams prescribed a false system,
comprising disbudding, stopping, and other interferences with the
natural growth of the plant. The rule of pinching back the leader to
promote the growth of side shoots, and removing the flower buds to
increase the size of the plants, was altogether vicious, because the
natural growth is more elegant and effective. The finest flowers are
produced on the main stem, and these are completely sacrificed by
disbudding.

It is desirable to make two or three sowings of Balsam, say from the
middle of March to the middle of May, the earlier sowings to be put on a
sweet hot-bed, although March sowings will soon germinate in a frame,
and the May sowing may be made in the open ground on a prepared bed. The
soil at every stage should be rich and light, but not rank in any
degree. Prick out the plants from the seed-pans directly the first rough
leaves show, and soon after shift them again to encourage a stout dwarf
habit. A sunny position should be chosen for the bed, in which they may
be planted out about the first week of June, or earlier if the weather
is particularly favourable. Heat, moisture, and a strong light favour a
fine bloom, and, therefore, water must be given whenever dry weather
prevails for any length of time. If kept sturdy while under glass, they
will need no support of any kind, and although they are peculiarly
fleshy in texture, it is seldom they are injured, even by a gale. When
grown in pots throughout, the chief points are to shift them often in
the early stages, to promote free growth in every reasonable way, and to
cease shifting when they are in pots sufficiently large to sustain the
strength of the plants. Generally speaking, eight-inch pots will suffice
for very fine Balsams, but ten-inch pots may be used for plants from an
early sowing. They will probably not show a flower-bud while increased
pot room is allowed them; but as soon as their roots touch the sides of
the pots the bloom will appear. It is occasionally the practice to lift
plants from beds when pot Balsams are wanted. This method has the
advantage of being the least troublesome, and as the plants need not be
lifted until the flowers show, favourite colours can be chosen.

==BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED==

==Begonia hybrida. Half-hardy perennial==

One of the most remarkable achievements in modern horticulture is the
splendid development of single and double Tuberous-rooted Begonias from
the plant as first introduced from the Andes. Originally the flowers
were small, imperfect in form, and deficient in range of colour. But
experts were quick in apprehending the capabilities of this graceful
plant, and it proved to be unusually amenable to the hybridiser's
efforts. Now the large symmetrical blossoms of both single and double
flowers challenge attention for beauty of form and an almost endless
variation of tints peculiar to the Tuberous-rooted Begonia. The plants
are conspicuous ornaments of the conservatory and greenhouse for several
months, and experience has proved that they make unique bedders,
enduring unfavourable conditions of weather which are fatal to many of
the older bedding subjects.

From the best strains of seed it is easy, with a little patience, to
raise a fine stock of plants, possessing the highest decorative
qualities. Under generous treatment the seedlings from a January or
February sowing come into bloom during July and August. The seed should
be sown in well-drained pots containing a good compost at the bottom,
with fine sandy loam on the surface, pressed down. Before sowing
sprinkle the soil with water, and sow the seed evenly, barely covering
it with fine earth. A temperature of about 65 deg. is suitable. Germination
is both slow and irregular, and the plants must be pricked off into pans
or small pots as fast as they become large enough to handle. This
process should be followed up so long as seedlings appear and require
transferring. They may be shifted on as the growth of the several plants
may require. Begonias need more attention with reference to an even
temperature during this stage than at any other period.

The merits of Begonias as bedding plants are now recognised in many
gardens, and they deserve to be still more widely grown. It is wise to
defer planting out until June. In the open ground they produce abundant
supplies of flowers for cutting at the end of September and early in
October, when many other flowers are over. The plants should be put out
when they show themselves sufficiently strong, and it is better to be
guided by the plants than by any fixed date. The beds must be freely
enriched with well-rotted manure and decayed vegetable matter; it can
scarcely be overdone, for Begonias are gross feeders.

The earliest plants to flower will often be retained in the greenhouse,
as they follow in succession the Cinerarias and Calceolarias. Those that
start later may be turned out as they come into bloom, which will
probably be in June. By deferring the planting out until there is a show
of bloom a selection of various shades of colour is possible, and this
will greatly enhance the beauty of the beds. Begonias are hardier than
is generally supposed; they need no protection, and require no heat,
except in the stage of seedlings, when first forming their tubers.

For autumn decoration Begonias should be taken up from the beds during
September and potted, when they will continue to bloom in the greenhouse
or conservatory for a considerable time, and form a useful addition to
the flowering plants of that period.

If not required for autumn decoration, let the plants remain out as long
as may be safe; then pot off, and place in the greenhouse. Be careful
not to hasten the drying of the bulbs. When the stems fall Begonias may
be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to remain in the same
pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on the ground, covered up
with sand, in any shed or frame where the bulbs will remain dry and be
protected from frost. Both damp and cold are very injurious to them. The
temperature during their season of rest should be kept as near 50 deg. as
possible. When they show signs of growth in spring they must be put into
small-sized pots, almost on the surface of the soil. As growth increases
shift into larger sizes, inserting the bulb a little deeper each time
until the crown is covered.

==BEGONIA, FIBROUS-ROOTED==l

==Begonia semperflorens. Half-hardy perennial==

Fibrous-rooted Begonias are exceedingly valuable for either bedding in
summer or greenhouse decoration during the autumn and winter. They
produce a continual succession of flowers, rather small in size, but
very useful for bouquets, and the plants are charming as table
ornaments. The directions for sowing and after-treatment recommended for
the Tuberous-rooted class will be suitable also for the Fibrous-rooted
varieties, except that the latter must always be kept in a growing
state, instead of being dried off at the end of the flowering season.
Sow seed at the end of January or in February, and again at the
beginning of March. Under fair treatment the first batch of plants will
come into flower for bedding out in June.

==CALCEOLARIA, HERBACEOUS==

==Calceolaria hybrida. Greenhouse biennial==

The present magnificent race of Herbaceous Calceolarias, both as to
constitution and the beauty of its flowers, is the result of much
cross-fertilisation of the finest types, so that the best strains are
capable of affording ever-new surprise and delight. The superb
collections exhibited in recent years, which have made lasting
impressions on the public by their form and brilliancy of colour, have
invariably been raised from seeds of selected varieties, saved on
scientific principles that insure vigour, variety, and splendour in the
progeny.

Calceolarias thrive under intelligent cool-house culture, but it must be
clearly understood that in every stage of growth they are quick in
resenting neglect or careless treatment. The work must be carried out
with scrupulous attention, and the result will more than justify the
labour. Extreme conditions of temperature are distinctly injurious, and
the plants are especially susceptible to a parched, dry atmosphere.

May is early enough to commence operations, and July is the limit for
sowing. As a rule, the June sowing will produce the quickest, strongest,
and most robust plants.

The soil, whatever its composition, should be rich, firm, and, above
all, porous. Press it well into the pots or pans, and make the surface
slightly convex and quite smooth. A compost that has been properly
prepared will not need water; but should water become needful, it must
be given by partially submerging the pans. The seed is as fine as snuff,
and requires delicate handling. It is easily lost or blown away, and
therefore it is wise not to open the packet until perfectly ready to
sow. Distribute the seed evenly and sift over it a mere dusting of fine
earth. Place a sheet of glass upon each pot or pan, and the glass must
be either turned or wiped daily. This not only checks rapid evaporation,
but prevents the attacks of vermin. Germination is always slower on an
open than on a close stage. Perhaps the best possible position is a
moist shady part of a vinery, if care be taken when syringing the vines
to prevent the spray from falling upon the seed-pans.

Under favourable circumstances, from seven to nine days will suffice to
bring the seedlings up in force, and very few will appear afterwards.
When they are through the soil remove the sheet of glass, and give them
prompt attention, or they will rapidly damp off. Immediately the second
leaf appears, tiny as the plants may be and difficult to handle,
commence pricking them off into other pots prepared to receive them, for
it is unsafe to wait until they become strong. Allow about two inches
between the plants. The occupants of each pan may generally be pricked
off in about three operations, and there should be only the shortest
possible intervals between.

With many subjects it is a safe rule to use the robust seedlings and
throw the weakly ones away. This practice will not do in the case of
Calceolarias, or some of the most charming colours that can grace the
conservatory or greenhouse will be lost. The strongest seedlings
generally produce flowers in which yellow largely predominates, a fact
that can easily be verified by keeping the plants under different
numbers. But it must not be inferred that because the remainder are
somewhat weaker at the outset they will not eventually make robust
plants.

Freely mix silver sand with the potting mould, and raise the surface
higher in the centre than at the edge of the pot. From the first
appearance of the seedlings shading is of the utmost importance, for
even a brief period of direct sunshine will certainly prove destructive.
Do not allow the plants to become dry for a moment, but give frequent
gentle sprinklings of water, and rain-water is preferable. As the soil
hardens, stir the surface with a pointed stick, not too deep, and give
water a few hours after. About a month of this treatment should find
each plant in the possession of four or five leaves. Then prepare thumb
pots with small crocks, cover the crocks with clean moss and fill with
rich porous soil. To these transfer the plants with extreme care,
lifting each one with as much soil adhering to the roots as a skilful
hand can make them carry. Place them in a frame, or in the sheltered
part of a greenhouse, quite free from dripping water. Always give air on
suitable days, and on the leeward side of the house.

Keep a sharp look-out for aphis, to the attacks of which Calceolarias
are peculiarly liable. Fumigation is the best remedy, and it should be
undertaken in the evening; a still atmosphere renders the operation more
certain. Water carefully on the following morning, and shade from the
sun.

By September the plants should be in large 60-pots, and it is then quite
time to begin the preparation for wintering. Some growers put them in
heat, and are successful, but the heat must be very moderate, and even
then we regard the practice as dangerous. Place the plants near the
glass, and at one end of the house where they will obtain plenty of side
light, as well as light from above. During severe frosts it may be well
to draw them back or remove them to a shelf lower down and towards the
centre of the house, but they must be restored as soon as possible to
the fullest light obtainable, as they have to do all their growth under
glass. The more air that can safely be given, the better, and dispense
with fire-heat if a temperature of 45 deg. to 55 deg. can be maintained without
it.

When growth commences in spring, which will generally be early in March,
give each plant its final shift into eight-or ten-inch pots. This must
be done before the buds push up, or there will be more foliage than
flowers.

The following is the compost we advise: one bushel good yellow loam,
half-bushel leaf-soil, one gallon silver sand, a pound of Sutton's A 1
Garden Manure, and a pint of soot, well mixed at least ten days before
use. Any sourness in the soil will be fatal to flowering. The compost
must be carefully 'firmed' into the pots, but no severe pressure should
be employed, or the roots will not run freely.

Neglect as to temperature or humidity will have to be paid for in long
joints, green fly, red spider, or in some other way. But there are no
plants of high quality that grow more thriftily if protected from cold
winds and kept perfectly clean. A light airy greenhouse is their proper
place, and they must have ample headroom.

After the pots are filled with roots, not before, manure water may be
administered until the flower-heads begin to show colour, when pure soft
water only should be used. About a fortnight in advance of the full
display the branches must be tied to supports. If skilfully managed the
supports will not be visible.

It may be that a few large specimens are required. If so, shift the most
promising plants into 6-size pots. These large Calceolarias will need
regular supplies of liquid manure until the bloom is well up, and if the
pots are efficiently drained and the plants in a thriving condition, a
rather strong beverage will suit them. For all ordinary purposes,
however, plants may be allowed to flower in eight-or ten-inch pots, and
for these one shift after the winter is sufficient.

==New Types of Calceolaria.==--There are now available a number of hybrid
half-hardy perennial varieties, of which =C. profusa= (=Clibrani=) is
the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered
Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist's Cineraria. In
point of size the blooms produced by these new types are smaller than
those of the Large-flowered section, but the tall graceful sprays are
extremely beautiful and of the greatest decorative value. Except that
seed should be sown earlier (February and March are the proper months),
the plants should receive precisely the same treatment as that already
described for Herbaceous Calceolaria.

==CALCEOLARIA, SHRUBBY==

==Calceolaria rugosa. Half-hardy perennial==

Notwithstanding the ease with which cuttings of the Shrubby Calceolaria
can be carried through a severe winter, there is a growing disposition
to obtain the required number of plants from seed sown in February; and
seedlings have the advantage of great variety of colour. A frame or
greenhouse, and the most ordinary treatment, will suffice to insure a
large stock of attractive healthy plants for the embellishment of beds
and borders.

==CAMPANULA and CANTERBURY BELL==

==Hardy annual, hardy biennial, and hardy perennial==

Among the numerous and diverse forms in the order Campanulaceae are many
flowers of great value in the garden, including Single, Double, and Cup
and Saucer strains of the popular Canterbury Bell (=C. medium=). The
impression that some Campanulas are shy growers and require
exceptionally careful treatment may arise from the frail habit of
certain varieties, or from the fact that some of them occasionally fail
to bloom within twelve months from date of sowing. The idea is not worth
a moment's consideration. In moderately rich, well-drained soil the
finest Campanulas not only prove to be thoroughly hardy, but they are
most graceful in herbaceous borders or beds, and they may also be used
alone in bold clumps with splendid effect. For instance, the handsome
Chimney Campanulas (=C. pyramidalis= and =C. pyramidalis alba=)
frequently attain a height of six feet or more, and sturdy spikes
occasionally measure eight and even ten feet from base to tip. Such
specimens are magnificent ornaments in conservatories and corridors, and
cannot fail to arrest attention at the back of herbaceous borders, or
when used as isolated plants on lawns. When grown in pots use a light
rich compost, taking care to insure perfect drainage. The plants must
never be allowed to become dry, as this not only checks growth but
renders them liable to attack by red spider or green fly. Another
distinctive subject for the decoration of the conservatory is =C.
grandis=, which may be described as a dwarf Chimney Campanula. The
freely branching plants, covered with attractive flowers, also form a
striking group when grown in the open border.

Altogether different in character is =C. persicifolia grandiflora=, or
the Peach-leaved Bell-flower as it is sometimes called. This plant is
lighter and more graceful than the Canterbury Bell. It throws up
handsome stems, two feet high, clothed from the ground with lance-like
leaves and elegant bells which quiver in the slightest breeze. An
interesting plant is the Giant Harebell, a dainty flower on a slender
stem, resembling the wild variety in form, but larger, richer in colour,
and a more profuse bloomer. =C. glomerata= is one of the hardiest plants
that can be grown in any garden, and the large close heads of deep blue
bells have long been familiar in herbaceous borders. For its very fine
glistening, deep blue, erect flowers, =C. grandiflora= is also a great
favourite.

Campanulas were formerly propagated by division, but this treatment has
created the impression that they are unworthy to be ranked among the
perennials. From seed, the plants are extremely robust. =C. persicifolia
grandiflora= resents division, which frequently results in weakened
growth and a tendency, especially in poor or badly drained soil, to
dwindle away. The only satisfactory method of growing Campanulas is to
raise plants annually from good strains of seed. If sown in gentle heat
early in the year--February is the usual month--many of the varieties
flower the same season. When they are well started, plenty of light and
air must be admitted. Unless intended for potting they should be planted
out in good soil where they will require no more care than is bestowed
on the borders generally. Seed can also be sown in the open ground from
May to July; transplant in autumn for flowering in the following season.
During hot weather, particularly on light soil, the plants need to be
well watered, but in retentive ground thorough drainage must be insured.
Should signs of debility appear, transplant to rich soil, where they
will soon regain vigour.

A popular half-hardy Campanula is =C. fragilis=, of trailing habit. The
starry pale blue flowers are seen to most advantage in hanging-baskets.
The charm of these flowers is wholly lost if they are placed on a stage
in the greenhouse; and they are not entirely satisfactory in a window
where the light is transmitted through the petals, as this robs them of
colour and substance. But hanging in a conservatory with plenty of air
and space their slender drooping stems are very graceful, and the light
reflected from the flowers does full justice to their beauty. Sow in
pans during February or March and pot on as required.