Sutton and Sons - The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

S >> Sutton and Sons >> The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

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The use of large pots--the 32-size will answer--is advantageous for many
reasons, and they should be either new or scrupulously clean, for they
will have to remain unchanged for many months, so that a fair start is
the more necessary. For the same reason special care should be taken to
insure free drainage. Over the usual crocks place a layer of dry moss,
and fill with a compost of fibrous loam and leaf-mould in equal parts,
with sufficient sharp sand added to make it thoroughly porous. Press the
soil firmly into the pots, making the surface quite even, and in
February dibble the seeds separately about an inch apart, and half an
inch deep. This will render it needless to disturb the seedlings during
the first season. Put the seed-pots in a steady temperature not
exceeding 65 deg. or 70 deg.. After watering, it will help to retain the
moisture if the top of each pot is covered with a layer of =old= moss,
until the plants show. When the seedlings are about an inch high remove
to a lower temperature, and begin to harden off by giving air on
suitable occasions. Take care, however, that in the process no check is
given to growth. Soon after the middle of May the seedlings should be
able to bear full exposure, and it will then be time to renew the
surface soil. Gently remove the upper layer, and replace it with rotten
cow-manure, or some other rich dressing. Water must be given regularly
until about midsummer, when the pots may be plunged to the rim in a
shady border, and this will keep them tolerably moist until, in
September, the seedlings begin to ripen off, which they must be allowed
to do. When the leaves have died down, shake out the bulbs and place
them on a shelf to dry. A mixture of equal parts of peat and pine
sawdust, placed in a box or seed-pan, will make the best possible store
for them; the box or seed-pan to be kept in any spot which is safe from
heat and frost. After about six weeks, each bulb should be examined, and
decayed specimens removed. If any of them have commenced growing, pot
them and place in a pit or greenhouse. In March take the bulbs out of
store, pot each one singly, and prepare for planting out. The transfer
to the open must not be made until the danger of frost is past, even
though it be necessary to wait until the first week of June.

Further remarks on Gladiolus will be found at page 329, under 'The
Culture of Flowering Bulbs.'

==GLOXINIA==

==Tender perennial==

Gloxinias can now be flowered in the most satisfactory manner within six
months from the date of sowing seed. Hence there is no longer the least
temptation to propagate these plants by the lengthy and troublesome
method formerly in vogue, especially as seedlings raised from a
first-class strain produce flowers of the finest quality, both as to
form and style of growth. One great advantage to be obtained from
seedlings is an almost endless variety of colour, for the careful
hybridisation of the choicest flowers not only perpetuates those
colours, but yields other fine shades also. Those who have never seen a
large and well-grown collection of seedling Gloxinias have yet to
witness one of the most striking displays of floral beauty.

Quite as much has been done for the foliage of the Gloxinia as for its
flower, and the best strains now produce grand leaves which are reflexed
in such a manner as almost to hide the pot, so that the foliage presents
an extremely ornamental appearance.

By successive sowings and judicious management it is possible to flower
Gloxinias almost the year through. The most important months for sowing
seed are January, February, and March, and to secure an early display in
the following spring some growers sow again in June or July.

The soil most suited to Gloxinias is a light porous compost of fibrous
loam. If this is not obtainable, leaf-mould will answer, mixed with peat
and silver sand in about equal parts. New pots are advisable, or old
ones must be thoroughly cleansed, and free drainage is essential to
success. Fill the pots to within half an inch of the top. Sow thinly,
and slightly cover the seed with very fine soil. Place the pots in a
warm, moist position, carefully shading from the sun. A light sprinkling
of water daily will be necessary. Immediately some plants are large
enough for shifting, lift them tenderly from the seed-pot, so as
scarcely to disturb the rest, and prick off into large 60-pots in which
the soil has a convex surface. Follow this process as plants become
ready until all the seedlings have been transferred. When potting on
allow the leaves to rest on the soil, but avoid covering the hearts. On
the first warm day give air on the leeward side of the house, briefly at
first, and increase the time as the plants become established. A clear
space between the plants is necessary to prevent the leaves of
neighbours from meeting. The final shift should be into 48-pots, unless
extra fine specimens are required, and then one or two sizes larger may
be used. An occasional dose of weak manure water will prove beneficial,
taking care that the foliage is not wetted. A moist atmosphere, with the
temperature at about 60 deg. to 65 deg., greatly facilitates the growth of
Gloxinias. With care, however, they may be well grown in greenhouses and
pits heated by hot water. Although the plants love a humid atmosphere
while growing, this ceases to be an advantage, and, in fact, becomes
injurious when the flowers begin to expand. At that time, also, the
manure water should be discontinued.

Under 'The Culture of Flowering Bulbs,' page 331, further instructions
are given.

==GODETIA==

==Hardy annual==

So far as the culture of Godetias is concerned, the usual spring sowing
and the regular treatment of hardy annuals will satisfy those who are
content with a display entailing the least possible trouble. But the
Godetia is no ordinary annual. The plants flower with such amazing
profusion, and the colours are so magnificent, that those who wish to
produce striking effects in beds or borders in July and August will find
Godetias of the highest value. All the varieties come perfectly true to
colour and admit of numerous contrasts and harmonies. As an example, we
suggest the following combination for a long border, or beside a
carriage drive. Sow two rows of Alyssum minimum, allowing twelve inches
between the rows; one row of Dwarf Pink Godetia fifteen inches from the
Alyssum; two rows of G. Dwarf Duchess of Albany eighteen inches apart;
one row of G. Scarlet Queen eighteen inches from the preceding variety,
and one row of Double Rose at the back. The result will astonish those
who have not previously seen a really fine exposition of this flower.
Many other combinations will occur to those who carefully study colour
schemes.

There are few annuals more greatly valued for cutting than the taller
varieties of Godetia. These mainly produce double flowers in sprays two
feet or more in length which develop into full beauty after being placed
in water.

March and April are the months for sowing seed in the open for a summer
display, and September for spring flowering. Good effects, however, are
obtained by raising a sufficient number of plants in boxes and pricking
off in readiness for putting out after bulbs and spring bedders have
been cleared away. Under this practice there need not be a blank or a
defective specimen.

Dwarf Godetias make exceedingly symmetrical and attractive pot plants.
For this purpose sow seed in October in pans and place them in a
temperature of 55 deg. until the seedlings appear, then remove to a cooler
place. As soon as possible prick off three in each 48-pot and when
established grow on during winter in cold frames, giving air daily
except in frosty weather, when the frames must remain closed and can be
protected with whatever covering may be at hand. Here it may be well to
point out that even when touched by frost the plants will recover if
they are shaded from the sun's rays until the pots are quite clear of
frost. Godetias flowered in pots make bright groups in conservatories,
and occasionally do good service where failures occur in beds.

==GREVILLEA ROBUSTA==

==Australian Oak. Greenhouse shrub==

In its native country, New South Wales, this is a stately tree. Here it
is grown as a pot plant, and the finely cut, drooping, fern-like foliage
produces one of the most graceful decorative subjects we possess. Its
value is enhanced by the fact that it withstands the baneful influences
of gas, dust, and changes of temperature better than the majority of
table plants.

Seedlings are easily raised by those who can exercise patience; and
afterwards the simplest cool culture will suffice to grow handsome
specimens. But we do not know any seed--not even the Auricula--which
takes more time and is so capricious in germinating. In all cases where
seed is sown in fairly rich soil, which has to be kept constantly moist
and undisturbed for a long period, there is a tendency to sourness,
especially on the surface. Free drainage will do something towards
preventing this. Another aid in the same direction is to cover the seed
with a layer of sand, and the sand with a thin coating of ordinary
potting soil. When the surface becomes covered with moss, the coating of
soil can be gently removed down to the sand, and be replaced with fresh
earth, without detriment to the seeds.

Sow at any time of the year, in 48-sized pots filled with rather firm
soil; and as the seedlings straggle through and show two pairs of
leaves, pot them off singly, and give the shelter of a close pit or
frame until they become established. They must not be allowed to suffer
for lack of water, but there is no necessity to give them manure water
at any stage of growth. An occasional re-potting is the only other
attention they will require until they reach the final size, and the
pots need not then be large.

==HOLLYHOCK==

==Althaea rosea. Hardy perennial==

Generations of unnatural treatment had so debilitated the Hollyhock that
disease threatened to banish it from our gardens. Just at the critical
time it was discovered that the plant could be grown and satisfactorily
flowered from seed. Florists at once turned their attention to the
production of seed worth growing, and with marked success. The best
strains may now be relied on to produce a large proportion of perfectly
formed double flowers, imposing in size, colour, and substance. The
seedlings also possess a constitution capable of withstanding the deadly
=Puccinia malvacearum=, and there is no longer a danger that this
stately plant will become merely one of the pleasures of memory.

In growing the Hollyhock it is necessary to remember that a large amount
of vegetable tissue has to be produced within a brief period, so that
the treatment throughout its career should be exceptionally liberal.
Some gardeners are successful in flowering Hollyhocks as annuals. Where
this course is adopted it is usual to sow in January in well-drained
pots or seed-pans filled with rich soil freely mixed with sand, covering
the seed with a slight dusting of fine earth. A temperature of 65 deg. or
70 deg. is necessary, and in about a fortnight the plants should attain a
height of one inch, when they will be ready for pricking off round the
edges of 4-1/2-inch pots, filled with a good porous compost. Put the
seedlings in so that the first leaves just touch the surface. At the
beginning of March transfer singly to thumb pots, and immediately the
roots take hold remove to pits or frames, where they can be exposed to
genial showers and be gradually hardened. Defer the planting out until
the weather is quite warm and settled.

The shrubbery border is the natural position for the Hollyhock, but the
regular occupants keep the soil poor, and for such a rapid-growing plant
as we are now considering there is obviously all the greater need for
deep digging and liberal manuring. If put out during dry weather,
complete the operation with a soaking of water, and repeat this twice a
week until rain falls. Give each plant a clear space of three or four
feet to afford easy access for staking and watering. By midsummer
offshoots will begin to push through the soil. The removal of these will
throw all the strength of the plant into one stem. To insure its safety
a strong stake will be required, which should be firmly driven into the
ground, and rise six or seven feet above it. In case of an accident at
any time to the central stem the hope of flowers for that year is gone,
and it is therefore worth some pains to prevent a mishap. The tying must
be done with judgment, and as the plants increase in size an occasional
inspection will save the stems from being cut. Several inches of
half-decayed cow-manure placed round the stems, with a saucer-like
hollow in the centre to retain water, will be helpful to the roots, and
if the flowers are intended for exhibition, the treatment can scarcely
be too generous.

It is, however, easy to grow and flower Hollyhocks without the aid of
artificial heat. On a south border in June prepare drills about two
inches deep and a foot apart. Place an inch of rich sifted soil in each
drill, and upon this sow the seed very thinly, covering it about a
quarter of an inch. If the weather be dry, give a gentle soaking of
water, and finish with a dusting of soot to prevent vermin from eating
the seedlings. Thin the plants to six inches apart, and they may remain
in the seed-rows until the end of September. Whether they are then
transplanted straight to blooming quarters, or put into a cold frame for
the winter, depends on soil and climate. In the southern counties, and
on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in the
open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy loam or
clay the risk is too great, and the cold frame must be resorted to. In
this they will be secure, and can be ventilated as weather permits. As
the season advances give more air, until they are planted out in May.
Seed may also be sown in pans in July or August, the seedlings being
transferred in due course to pots for the winter. The protection of a
frame will suffice, provided that frost is kept away, and the plants may
be put out in spring as already advised.

==IMPATIENS==

==Sultan's Balsam. Tender perennial==

Early sowing should be avoided for two reasons. The seed germinates but
slowly in dull weather, and the seedlings when raised are almost certain
to damp off. We do not advise a start before March, and not until April
unless a steady heat of 60 deg. or 65 deg. can be maintained. Sow in
well-drained pots, filled with soil composed of two parts of turfy loam
and one part of leaf-soil, with very little sand added. The seedlings
are exceedingly brittle at the outset, and re-potting should not be
attempted until they are about an inch high. Even then they need
delicate handling, and after the task is accomplished they should be
promptly placed in a warm frame or propagating pit for a few days. In
June or July the plants should reach 48-sized pots, but they must not be
transferred to the conservatory without careful hardening, or the whole
of the flowers will fall. =I. Holstii= also succeeds well when bedded
out in summer in the same manner as Begonias.

==JACOBEA--=see= SENECIO==

==KOCHIA TRICHOPHYLLA==

==Half-hardy annual==

This remarkable variety of =K. scoparia= is a miniature annual shrub,
which is also known as Summer Cypress, or Belvidere. It is singularly
attractive, of rapid growth and graceful habit. In a very brief time the
finely cut foliage forms a compact cylindrical plant, beautifully domed
at the top, and the tender green changes to a rich russet-crimson in
autumn.

Seed may be sown in slight heat during February or March to provide
early plants for pots, or for setting out in the open immediately the
bedding season commences. It is important not to crowd the seedlings,
and every precaution should be taken to prevent them from becoming thin,
leggy, or wanting in symmetry. Each plant must be allowed sufficient
space to develop equally all round. An April sowing can be made in the
open where the plants are intended to remain, and beyond regular
thinning they will give very little trouble.

As a conspicuous dot plant in beds this Kochia is extremely useful, or
it can be massed in borders, and it also forms an admirable dividing
line in the flower garden. For the decoration of conservatories a number
should be specially reserved. Specimens may be employed with striking
effect on flights of steps, in halls, and many other positions where a
plant of perfect outline will serve as an ornament. Height, 2 to 3 feet.

==LARKSPUR==

==Hardy annual==

The cultivation of the annual Delphiniums, more familiarly known as
Larkspurs, is so simple in character that it calls for little comment.
But these handsome subjects are so widely grown, and so greatly
appreciated, that they are fully deserving of special mention here. The
taller varieties, of which the Stock-flowered strain is the most
popular, are best grown in large beds, borders and shrubberies, and the
dwarfer kinds in small beds. Apart from their usefulness in the garden,
however, the taller sorts of Larkspur are much in request for providing
cut material, particularly for the decoration of the dinner-table, and a
number of plants should always be grown in reserve for this purpose. It
is usual to put in the seed where the plants are intended to stand, and
March and April are the best months for sowing. Thin out the seedlings
promptly, and give each plant ample room for development, especially
when grown on good ground.

Larkspurs may also be sown in September for producing an earlier display
in the following year than is possible from spring-sown seed.

==LAVATERA==

==Mallow. Hardy annual and hardy perennial==

Countryside gardens owe not a little of their floral brightness to the
Mallows. The modern varieties of Lavatera, however, far surpass in
effectiveness the flowers commonly met with and are regarded as among
the finest subjects for creating an imposing display in tall borders and
large beds. For this purpose the annual varieties, Loveliness, =Rosea
splendens=, and =Alba splendens=, are the most popular. As transplanting
is not to be depended upon, seed should be sown thinly in March, April
or May where the plants are wanted to flower. If the ground has been
generously prepared fine specimens will result, and each plant should be
allowed a spacing of at least two feet for development.

The perennial variety, =L. Olbia=, makes a bold subject for herbaceous
borders and shrubberies. Seed may be sown in pans any time from March to
August, putting out the plants when large enough for flowering in the
following season. Small plants of this variety may with advantage be
potted for conservatory decoration.

==LOBELIA==

==Annual and perennial; half-hardy==

There are several distinct classes of Lobelia, differing materially in
height and habit. For dwarf beds or edgings the =compact= varieties
should alone be used. These grow from four to six inches high, and form
dense balls of flowers. The =spreading= or =gracilis= class, including
=L. speciosa= and =L. Paxtoniana=, is in deserved repute for positions
which do not demand an exact limit to the line of colouring. The plants
also show to advantage in suspended baskets, window boxes, rustic work,
vases, and any position where an appearance of graceful negligence is
aimed at. The =ramosa= section grows from nine to twelve inches high,
and produces much larger flowers than the classes previously named.

All the foregoing can be treated as annuals; and from sowings, made in
February or March plants may be raised in good time for bedding out in
May. Use sandy soil, and place the seed-pans in a temperature of about
60 deg., taking care to keep them moist. By the end of March or beginning of
April the seedlings will be ready for transferring to pots, pans, or
boxes. The last named are very serviceable for this flower, for they
afford opportunity of giving the seedlings sufficient space to produce a
tufty habit of growth. A gentle heat will start them, and they will give
no trouble afterwards, except on one point, which happens to be of
considerable importance. It is that the plants should never be allowed
to produce a flower while in pots or boxes. Pick off every bud until
they are in final positions, and then, having taken hold of the soil,
they will bloom profusely until the end of the season.

Lobelias make elegant pot plants, yet, with the exception of the
=ramosa= varieties which are excellent for the purpose, they cannot be
grown satisfactorily in pots. The difficulty is easily surmounted by
putting them out a foot apart in a good open position, and if possible
in a rather stiff soil. When they have developed into fine clumps lift
them with care and place them in pots, avoiding injury to the roots.
This method will produce a display of colour which cannot be attained by
exclusive pot culture.

From the best strains of seed it is possible that a few plants may
revert to long-lost characters. Florists are striving to obviate this,
but it will require time. Meanwhile there are two ways of dealing with
the difficulty. Some growers prefer to raise plants from seed, and take
cuttings from approved specimens for the next season. This plan insures
exactitude in height and colour, with almost the robust growth and
free-flowering qualities of seedlings. But it necessitates holding a
stock through the winter, and this may be a serious matter to many. The
simpler proceeding, and one which answers well in practice, is to raise
seedlings annually and to remove from the pans or boxes any plants which
show the least deviation from the true type. A few kept as a reserve
will replace faulty specimens which may be detected after planting out.

The handsome perennial section of Lobelias obtains less attention than
it deserves, especially as the most ordinary routine culture will
suffice for these plants. They are partial to moisture, and also to a
deep rich loam. A sowing on moderate heat in February or March will
secure plants fit for bedding out in May. They may also be grown
entirely without the aid of artificial heat from sowings in June or
July. Employ pots or seed-pans, and pot off singly immediately the
plants are large enough to handle. The protection of a cold frame or
hand-light is all that is necessary during winter, and the planting out
may be done in May. These Lobelias reach two feet in height, and make
excellent companions to such flowers as =Anemone japonica alba= and
=Hyacinthus candicans=. The dark metallic foliage and dazzling scarlet
flowers also have an imposing effect as the back row of a ribbon border.

==LUPINUS==

==Lupine. Hardy annual and hardy perennial==

Both the annual and the perennial Lupines are extremely valuable for
garden decoration and for supplying an abundance of cut blooms. Each
class includes a number of charming colours and many of the flowers are
delightfully scented. Not the least of their merits is the fact that
Lupines are not particular as to soil; indeed, the annual sorts will
often thrive on ground that is too poor for other and more fastidious
subjects.

The annual varieties should be sown where intended to flower, as they do
not transplant well. Sow the seed in March, April, or May, and
subsequently allow each specimen a space of about eighteen inches for
development.

=L. polyphyllus= is a valuable race of perennial Lupines which, from a
sowing made in March or April and treated as annuals, will produce a
fine show in the following autumn. In order to insure a display earlier
in the season, however, many growers of these flowers prefer to sow in
June and July of the preceding year. Two varieties of =L. arboreus= form
large bushes which are distinctly ornamental when in full bloom. The
seed should be sown in June or July and the seedlings transplanted to
flowering positions before they become very large.

==MARIGOLD==

==Tagetes. Half-hardy annual==

Marigolds of several classes are valued for the profuse display of their
golden flowers in the later summer months. The choicest are the
so-called French, or =Tagetes patula=, which have richly coloured
flowers, and some of the varieties are beautifully striped. For their
high quality these Marigolds are judged by the florists' standards. The
African, or =Tagetes erecta=, make large bushy plants with flowers
'piled high' in the centre; the colours are intense orange and yellow.
in various shades. The bedding section is represented by the dwarf
varieties of =Tagetes patula=, or Dwarf French Marigolds; also by
=Tagetes signata,= a very neat plant with fine foliage and rather small
orange-coloured flowers, produced in great abundance. In hot seasons and
on dry soils this proves an admirable substitute for the Calceolaria,
which does not thrive when short of food, whereas the Tagetes bears
drought, the shade of trees, and a poor soil with patience, and up to a
certain point with advantage. Sow all these in March in a moderate heat,
and prick the plants out in the usual way, taking care finally to allot
them sunny positions. Seed may also be sown in the open ground at the
end of April or early in May.