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Sutton and Sons - The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

S >> Sutton and Sons >> The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition




The commoner Anemones need only to be planted about three inches deep,
with the eyes upwards, at any time between September and March, and they
will require little or no attention afterwards. Under trees, instead of
planting in a formal pattern, it is worth while to put them in with some
attempt at natural grouping, and not too close together--say from six
inches to a foot apart. In such positions they may be left undisturbed
for years; and if the soil happens to be a good sandy loam, they will
thrive and increase. In masses or beds within the garden, however, a
richer effect is wanted, and the distance between the roots should not
exceed from four to six inches.

A choice collection of roots is worth more care, and florists are
accustomed to prepare the beds for their reception with fastidious
exactness. The soil, if not considered suitable, is taken out to the
depth of two feet, and is replaced by a rich and specially prepared
compost. Although the individual flowers produced by this method are
generally very fine, and the total effect of the bed is exceedingly
beautiful, yet the truth must be confessed that for ordinary gardening
the system is extravagant and unnecessary. As a hobby, it is, of course,
justifiable enough; but Anemones of high quality can be grown by a much
simpler mode of procedure. One deep digging there certainly should be,
and a layer of manure at the bottom of each trench is sound treatment,
for it supplies the roots with food and a cool subsoil. Poor land should
also be enriched by incorporating a dressing of decayed manure as the
work proceeds. Subsequently one or two light surface forkings will help
to make the bed mellow. A rough plan, showing the name and position of
every root, will be a safer record than labelling in the usual way, and
it also prevents the disfigurement of the bed. There should be a
distance of six inches between the roots; and they may be put in singly
by means of the trowel, or in drills drawn three inches deep. The former
method is generally adopted for groups; but to insure regularity in
flowering the planting must be uniform in depth. For beds, drills are
more reliable, and they are speedily made.

The time of planting determines to a considerable extent the date of
flowering; and, as the roots may be put in during autumn, winter, and
early spring, it is easy to secure a succession of Anemones from January
until May. But this flower is of so much more value early in the year
than at a later period, when many other subjects brighten the garden,
that it is scarcely worth while to plant so late as March.

The Anemone is well worth growing in pots, both for its foliage and
flowers. It does not resent forcing to the same extent as the
Ranunculus; nevertheless, cool treatment is almost essential to do it
full justice. The potting should be done in batches to insure a
succession of flowers, and the first lot may be put in at the end of
August, or beginning of September. They should have the benefit of
really good soil; a mixture of leaf-mould and loam, with the addition of
a little powdered charcoal, will suit them exactly. In preparing the
pots, place a layer of light manure above the crocks, which will assist
the drainage and benefit the plants. Then fill with compost to within
two inches of the top, and lay in the roots; add soil to a level with
the rim, and press lightly down. The strongest roots should, of course,
be selected for potting, and it will need more than a hasty glance to
put them in with the eyes upwards. One or more roots may be planted in
each pot, according to the size of the latter.

The early plantings can be placed in any warm position out of doors,
such as under a south wall; but after the middle of October remove to a
cold pit, or on to the greenhouse stage. Watering is all the attention
they will require, and of this there must be no stint, especially during
the blooming period. A high temperature at any stage is needless, and if
they are just kept out of the reach of frost they will take excellent
care of themselves.

Anemones are adapted for many decorative purposes; they make capital
window plants, and their sharply cut foliage is very ornamental in the
drawing-room or on the dinner-table.


==BABIANA==

Babianas are delicately constituted, but extremely elegant plants when
well grown. Though far from showy, they appeal to the educated eye for
appreciation of their blue and purple oculate flowers. The culture is
the same as for the Ixia, and we incline strongly to the practice of
keeping the bulbs at least two seasons in the same pots.


==BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED==

Few flowers have a greater claim on the attention of horticulturists
than the Tuberous-rooted Begonia, either for the ease with which it can
be grown, or for the many valuable purposes to which the plant may be
applied. It can be flowered at any time from February until October, and
is available for all kinds of indoor decoration, and also for growing in
the open ground during the summer months.

Instead of allowing the plants to be rudely dried off, it is worth a
little trouble to reduce them slowly to the dormant state by gradually
withholding water. They should still be retained in pots, which may be
stored under a thick layer of ashes or dry peat in any cellar, frame, or
shed where the thermometer stands pretty uniformly at about 50 deg.. The
store should also be dry, for damp is quite as injurious to these roots
as cold. Generally speaking, it may be said that any store which is safe
for Dahlias will also preserve Tuberous-rooted Begonias.

After the winter's rest the bulbs are invariably saucer-shaped, and in
the event of their being watered before growth has commenced, sufficient
water will remain in the hollow to destroy the bulb. This peculiarity
makes it dangerous to start the plant before activity is evident. In
January or February, as the bulbs show signs of life, pot them almost on
the surface of a rich loamy soil, and employ the smallest pots possible.
Nurse them with a little care in a warm place for about ten days, and
they should then be very gradually hardened. A regular system of potting
on will be necessary until the final size is reached; and at each
operation the plants should be inserted rather deeper than before. If
re-potting is deferred too long, the foliage will turn yellow--a sure
sign that the plant is starving. No flowers should be allowed in the
early stages of growth, and this rule is imperative if fine specimens
are wanted; but when the plants are transferred just as the pots are
full of roots, there will be little disposition to bloom prematurely.
While growing, the Tuberous Begonia delights in a humid atmosphere, but
this should be avoided after flowering has commenced. When sticks are
inserted for tying out the flowers, the bulbs must not be wounded.

The erect-growing varieties are valuable for low conservatory stages,
and they form splendid groups in corners of drawing-rooms. The drooping
kinds are seen to advantage on brackets, shelves, and in suspended
baskets; and the short-jointed plants of the drooping class are
specially adapted for rockeries and beds. They must not be put into the
open until the danger of a nipping east wind is past. The early part of
June is generally about the right time.

In the autumn it is usual to lift and pot the plants, although in mild
districts, and in a light soil, they may safely be left out all the
winter under the shelter of a heap of ashes or decayed manure. In beds
this plan is scarcely worth adoption, because it leaves the ground bare
for several months; but where Begonias are grown in the reserve border
to furnish a supply of flowers for cutting, it may be a considerable
advantage to leave them until the following year.

A word is necessary as to soil. The Begonia is a gross feeder, and to
develop its fine qualities there must be a liberal employment of manure.
As a matter of fact, it is scarcely possible to make the soil too rich
for this flower.


==CHIONODOXA==

==Glory of the Snow==

The varied blue tints of the Chionodoxa, its more open blossoms, and
larger size, distinguish this flower from its older and justly prized
rival, the Scilla. Indeed, the Chionodoxa is exquisitely beautiful, and
of great value for pot culture, beds, or borders. Five bulbs may be
grown in a 48-sized pot, and in the border not less than half a dozen
should be planted in a group. Employed as a single or double line, it
also produces a striking bit of colouring. The bulbs should be planted
in autumn four inches deep, the distance between being not more than
three inches. Any ordinary garden soil will grow this flower, and it is
advisable to allow the bulbs to remain undisturbed for several years, as
the effect will be the greater in each succeeding spring.


==CROCUS==

This brilliant harbinger of spring will thrive in any soil or situation,
but to be brought to the highest possible perfection it should be grown
in an open bed or border of deep, rich, dry sandy loam. The bulbs should
be planted during September, October, and November. If kept out of the
ground after the end of the year they will be seriously damaged, and
however carefully planted, will not flower in a satisfactory manner.
Plant three inches deep in lines, clumps, or masses, as taste may
suggest, putting the bulbs two inches apart. If convenient, let them
remain undisturbed two or three years, and then take them up and plant
again in well-prepared and liberally manured soil. A bed of mixed
Crocuses has a pleasing appearance, but in selecting bulbs for the
geometric garden it is more effective to employ distinct colours,
reserving the yellow for the exterior parts of the design to define its
boundaries, and using the blue and the white in masses and bands
within. In districts where sparrows attack the flowers, they may be
deterred from doing mischief by stretching over the beds a few strands
of black thread, which will not interfere with the beauty of the
display, and will terrify the sparrows for a sufficient period to save
the flowers.

The named varieties are invaluable for pot and frame culture, and to
force for decorative purposes; for though the individual flowers are
short-lived, the finest bulbs yield a long succession of bloom, and in
character Crocuses are quite distinct from all other flowers of the same
early season. When grown in pots and baskets, the bulbs should be placed
close together to produce a striking effect. A light, rich soil is
desirable, but they may be flowered in a mixture of charcoal and moss,
or in fibre, or moss alone. When required in quantity for ornamental
baskets and similar receptacles, it is wise to plant them in shallow
boxes filled with rotten manure and leaf-mould, and to lift them out
separately, and pack them when in flower in the ornamental baskets. A
perfect display of flowers in precisely the same stage of development
can thus be secured, and successional displays may follow as long as
supplies remain in the boxes.


==CROWN IMPERIAL==

==Fritillaria imperialis==

A noble plant which needs a deep, rich, moist soil, and an open
situation, to insure the full degree of stateliness, but it will make a
very good figure in any border where it can enjoy a glimmer of sunshine.
There are several distinct varieties, the flowers of which range in
colour from palest yellow to the deepest shade of orange and reddish
buff, and there are others which have variegated leaves. They should be
planted in autumn eighteen inches apart, allowing from four to six
inches of soil above the crowns.


==CYCLAMEN==

Although it is advisable to raise Cyclamens from seed every year,
occasions arise when it is necessary to store the bulbs for a second
season, and the best method of treating them during the period of rest
must be considered. As the production of seed weakens the corms,
preference should be given to those which have not been subjected to
this tax on their energies.

At the close of the flowering season the bulbs should be gradually
reduced to a resting state by withholding moisture. When the foliage
turns yellow the pots may be laid on their sides in a cold frame, if
available, or in any other convenient place where they will not be
forgotten, until about the middle of July. They should then be placed
upright, and have a supply of water. After fresh growth has fairly
commenced, shake the bulbs out of the pots, remove most of the old soil,
and re-pot in a compost consisting of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould,
with a sufficient admixture of silver sand to insure drainage. The corm
should be so placed in the pot as to bring the crown about level with
the rim, and every care must be taken to avoid injuring the young roots.
Place the pots in a close frame for a few days, after which ample
ventilation should be given to maintain a robust condition. The lights
may remain constantly open until there is danger from autumn frosts.
Specimens that show a great number of flower-buds should be assisted
occasionally with weak manure water.

=C. Coum= and =C. europaeum= are rarely well grown, for although quite
hardy, the climate of this country does not suit them in their season of
flowering, which is the early spring. The cool greenhouse is the safest
place for them, except in sheltered spots, where they may be planted out
on a border of peat, or amongst ferns in a rockery. When grown in pots,
light turfy loam and peat in equal quantities, with a fourth part of
cow-manure and a liberal addition of sand, will form an excellent
compost for them. The pots should never be exposed to the drying action
of the sun or wind, but should be plunged to the rim in coal-ashes. The
best time for potting or planting them is September or October.

Instructions on raising Cyclamens from seed will be found at page 256.


==DAFFODIL==--=see= ==NARCISSUS==, =page= 344


==DOG'S-TOOTH VIOLET==

The red and white varieties are as hardy as any plant in our gardens,
and by their neat habit and elegant leaves and flowers they are
admirably adapted to plant in quantities in the front of a rockery, in
either peat or sandy loam and leaf-mould. They are equally suitable for
edging small beds in gardens where spring flowers are systematically
grown; in fact, they are true 'spring bedders.' Autumn is the proper
time to plant the bulbs. But Dog's-tooth Violets are also worth growing
in pots, especially where an unheated 'Alpine house' is kept for plants
of this class. Several bulbs may be put in a pot of the 48-size.


==FERRARIA==--=see= ==TIGRIDIA==, =page 350=


==FREESIA==

The singularly graceful form, wide range of beautiful colours, and
delicious perfume of this flower have made it an immense favourite; and
happily there is no Cape bulb which can be grown with greater ease in
the frame or cool greenhouse. One characteristic is very marked, and it
is the disproportion between the small bulb and the fine flowers
produced from it.

Procure the bulbs as early in the autumn as possible, and lose no time
in potting them. Any light rich soil will answer, but that which suits
them best is composed of two parts of loam, one of leaf-mould, and one
of peat, with enough sand or grit added to insure drainage. Commence
with pots of the right size, for the roots are extremely brittle, and
there must be no risk of injuring them by re-potting. The 48-size will
accommodate several bulbs. Place under a south wall, and cover with
leaf-mould until top growth commences, and then remove the covering.

At the end of September transfer the pots to a cold frame, and when the
plants attain a height of four inches, support them with neat sticks,
which should not be inserted too near the bulbs. Watering will require
judgment, for too much moisture turns the foliage yellow. When the pots
are full of roots, liquid manure twice a week will be helpful.

After the blooming season has passed, encourage the foliage to wither by
withholding water. The roots may be stored away in their own pots until
the following August.


==FRITILLARIA==

Fritillarias produce bell-shaped flowers, varying in colour, but
generally of a purplish tint, and beautifully spotted. They thrive in a
good deep loam, but may be grown in almost any soil, and do well under
the shade of trees. They are quite hardy, and, like most other bulbs,
should be planted in autumn. Fritillarias are occasionally grown in pots
kept in a cold frame, but they will not endure forcing in the least
degree, and the mixed border is the best position for them. These
flowers make a charming ornament when grown in bowls filled with
moss-fibre.


==GLADIOLUS==

The Gladiolus is adapted for many important uses and it associates
admirably with Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Pyrethrums, and Phloxes in the
furnishing of clumps on the lawn and in the mixed border. It is
perfectly in harmony with surroundings when planted in American beds or
in the shrubbery. For supplying cut flowers it is invaluable, as they
retain their freshness in a vase for many days, and a plentiful supply
should be grown in reserved spots expressly for this purpose.

==Culture in Pots.==--The early-flowering varieties are of especial value
for decorating greenhouses and conservatories during spring and early
summer. The corms of these Gladioli are small, and a 32-sized pot will
accommodate several. The soil should be decidedly rich, and it must be
porous, because water has to be given freely when the plants are in full
growth. Pot the corms in autumn, and cover with leaf-mould until the
roots are developed, when successive batches can be brought forward and
gently forced for a continuous supply of elegant flowers during April
and May. A mild temperature of about 55 deg. is quite sufficient for them.

==Culture in the Open Ground.==--The autumn-flowering Gladioli are grown
in the open ground, and preparations should begin well in advance of
planting time. Almost any soil can be made to answer, but that which
suits them best is a good medium, friable loam with a cool rich subsoil,
and each grower must decide for himself how far this is within reach
naturally, or can be secured by resources at command. Thus, a light soil
may be made suitable by placing a thick layer of rotten cow-manure a
foot below the surface, and a heavy, retentive loam can be reduced to
the proper state by the admixture of lighter material. On the surface
spread a liberal quantity of manure and dig it in, leaving the soil in a
rough state to be disintegrated by frosts. Before the planting time
arrives it is worth some trouble to free the ground from wire worms, or
they will play havoc with the growth just as it is appearing above
ground. Potatoes serve admirably as traps for these pests.

Gladioli are peculiarly liable to injury from wind, so that a sheltered,
but not a shaded, position should, if possible, be chosen for them. The
time of planting depends partly on the district, partly on the season;
but the soil must be in suitable condition and fine weather is
necessary. From the middle of March to the middle of April should afford
some suitable opportunity of getting the bulbs in satisfactorily. Give
the land a light forking, not deep enough to bring up the manure, and
make the surface level. The rows may be twelve or eighteen inches apart;
we prefer the greater distance, because of the convenience it affords in
attending to the plants when growing; nine inches is sufficient space in
the rows.

There are two methods of putting in the bulbs, each of which has
advocates among practised growers. One is to take out the soil with a
trowel to the depth of six or seven inches for each corm, then insert
about two inches of mixed sand and powdered charcoal or wood ashes; lay
the root upon it, and carefully cover with fine soil. If that process is
considered too tedious, draw a deep drill with a hoe, and at the bottom
put the light mixture already named; place the roots at regular
distances upon it, and lightly return the top soil. The operation should
be so performed as to leave the crown of the corm four inches below the
surface. When planting is completed, give the bed a finishing touch with
the rake.

An eminent grower strips off the outer coat or skin of each bulb before
planting to ascertain that there is no disease; and this cannot
otherwise be discovered. No doubt the procedure prevents the bed from
showing blanks, but that object can be more safely attained by growing a
reserve in pots. There is, however, another practice which possesses
very decided advantages, and it is to break the skin at the crown of the
bulb to allow the foliage free exit. The skin is so tough that it is
frequently the means of distorting the plant in its attempt to force an
opening.

The bed for a time needs little attention, except to keep it free from
weeds, and this is best done by hand. When the shoots reach about a foot
high, tying must be resorted to in earnest. The most effectual plan, of
course, is to put a separate stake to each plant, and for exhibition
specimens this is certainly advisable. But rows can be secured by a
stake at each end, with two or three strands of strong material carried
across, to which each flower must be tied. Whatever method is adopted,
care should be taken to avoid cutting the plant, while holding it secure
from damage in a high wind. Let the material which is placed round the
flowering-stem be soft and wide, such as list, which answers admirably.

Water must be freely and regularly given during dry weather, either in
the morning or in the evening; and a mulch of old manure spread over the
bed will prevent evaporation, and save the ground from caking hard.

Another important matter is shading. For ordinary purposes this is not
essential; but as it very much lengthens the duration of the flower, it
is worth attention on that ground alone, and for exhibition it is
indispensable. Whether shading is provided by separate protectors made
expressly for the purpose, or by home-made contrivances of canvas or
wood, the point to be quite certain about is security, or an accident
may wreck well-grounded hopes.

The lifting and storing of the corms affect the quality of the next
year's flowers so much that it is important to accomplish lifting at the
most suitable time, and the storing in the best manner. By the middle or
end of October, on some fine day, take up the roots, even if the foliage
be still green; tie a label to each variety, and hang them in some airy
place until they can be cleared of soil and leaves. Remove each stem
with a sharp knife, and lay out the bulbs to dry for another fortnight.
They can then be stored in paper bags or in boxes on any dry shelf which
is safe from vermin and frost.

An article on the culture of the Gladiolus from seed will be found on
page 267.


==GLOXINIA==

Gloxinias may be had in bloom almost all the year by judicious
management. When required for early flowering, those that start first
should be selected and carefully shifted into other pots, and be kept
near the glass, as they depend much on light for rapid and luxuriant
growth. A moist atmosphere, with the temperature about 60 deg. to 65 deg.,
greatly facilitates the growth of Gloxinias, but they may be grown well
in greenhouses or in pits heated by hot water. The most suitable soil is
a light fibrous loam, combined with a little peat and silver sand.
Manure water during the growing period twice a week is helpful, but it
should be discontinued when the flowers show colour. The plants love
shade, and at no time should suffer from drought. Storing Gloxinias for
their season of rest, =i.e.= the winter, must be carefully attended to,
as losses frequently occur during this stage. It is also important that
the plants should not be 'dried off' too quickly; place them in a light,
airy position, and by a gradual reduction of moisture the leaves will
fall off naturally. The bulbs may then be stored away on a shelf, in an
even temperature of about 50 deg., each bulb being closely surrounded by
cocoa-nut fibre and peat in equal parts to prevent excessive dryness,
which, like too much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb.

Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always
desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may
deteriorate after two or three years. This can easily be managed by
successive sowings of seed, as advised at page 268.


==HEMEROCALLIS==--=see under= ==LILIES==, =page 343=


==HYACINTH==

One of the most valuable characteristics of the Hyacinth is the ease
with which it can be flowered in a variety of ways by very simple modes
of treatment. It may be employed as a hardy, rough-weather plant for the
garden border, or as a grand exhibition and conservatory flower. The
bulbs may be planted at any time from September to the middle of
December, with the certainty of their blooming well, if properly cared
for; but the prudent cultivator will plant them as early as possible in
the autumn, and so manage them afterwards as to secure the longest
period of growth previous to their flowering. They can be forced to
flower at Christmas, but the more slowly the flowers are developed the
finer in the end will they be. To obtain good bulbs is a matter of the
utmost importance, and it may be useful here to remark that the mere
size of a Hyacinth bulb is no criterion of its value--nor, indeed, is
its neatness of form or brightness of appearance. The two most important
qualities are soundness and density. If the bulbs are hard and heavy in
proportion to their size, they may be depended on to produce good
flowers of their kind. The bulbs of some sorts are never large or
handsome, while, on the other hand, many others partake of both these
qualities in a marked degree.

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