Sutton and Sons - The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

S >> Sutton and Sons >> The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44

==Annuals==.--There is still an opportunity of sowing many varieties, and
also to make further sowings of others that are already showing signs of
promise. The practice of insuring a succession of all flowers much in
demand for vases, of which Sweet Peas are an example, is on the
increase, and deserves to be further extended. Another point is that
many annuals which require heat in earlier months may with confidence be
sown during May in the open ground.

==Hardy Biennials and Perennials==.--Seed of many favourite biennials and
perennials may be safely sown in the open ground during May, June, and
July, and as a general rule the finest plants for flowering in the
following season are obtained from the earliest sowings. The bed for the
seed should be prepared with care and a friable loam is the best for the
purpose. Immediately the seedlings are large enough to handle,
transplant to small rich nursery beds and shift to flowering positions
in the autumn. A number of these subjects are dealt with individually in
the calendars for the months named, and others which are suitable for
the purpose are:

Anchusa italica
Aster sub-caeruleus
Aubrietia
Candytuft (Iberis)
Cheiranthus Allionii
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum
Coreopsis grandiflora
Cynoglossum
Digitalis
Gaillardia
Galega officinalis
Gaura Lindheimeri
Geum
Gypsophila paniculata
Heuchera
Lupinus
Cenothera
Poppy, perennial
Pyrethrum
Saxifrage
Thalictrum
Verbascum
Viola

==Antirrhinum== is admirably adapted for a dry and sunny position, in
which it will thrive and flower freely.

==Balsam==.--Towards the middle of the month a final sowing may be made
with safety in the open ground. Former seedlings will need potting on
until they reach the eight-inch size, and at each transfer put the
plants in rather deeper than before; this encourages the growth of roots
from the stems. While increasing the pot-room not a bud will show; but
immediately the roots are checked by the pots, flowering will commence.
The old method of stopping and disbudding not only spoiled the plants,
but robbed them of the finest flowers, which are invariably produced on
the main stem. Since the natural method of growing Balsams has been in
favour it is usual to see grand specimens covered with immense flowers.

==Campanula==.--The hardy perennial varieties may be sown in the open
during the present month to provide seedlings for transplanting to
flowering positions in autumn. Should there be any good reason for delay
it will not be too late to sow in June or July, but the finest
specimens are generally produced from May sowings. The best results can
always be obtained by raising the required number annually and
discarding the plants after they have flowered in the following season.

==Cineraria.==--Those who care to have Cinerarias in bloom during November
and December may do so from a sowing made at the beginning of April, but
it is not usual to start so early. Our own practice is to sow twice,
during the present month and again in June, to insure a succession. From
this month's sowings we look for our finest plants. The Cineraria is
easy to raise and to grow, but it will by no means take care of itself.
It has so many enemies that unusual vigilance is necessary to flower it
to perfection. It thrives in a compost of turfy loam, with a little
leaf-mould added; but the soil should not be over-rich, or there will be
much foliage and few flowers. Still, as the plant is a rapid grower, it
must not be starved, neither must it suffer for lack of water. Pots or
pans may be employed for the seed; and as the young plants grow freely,
they may go straight to thumb pots without the usual intermediate stage
of pricking off.

==Coleus== should be finally shifted into 48-sized pots. If signs of
decline become manifest, weak liquid manure water given occasionally
will revive the plants and intensify their colours. During the summer
any ordinary greenhouse or conservatory will suit them, provided they
are shaded from fierce sunshine.

==Cyclamen.==--The strongest seedlings should now be ready for 60-sized
pots. Abundant but judicious ventilation, plenty of water, and freedom
from aphis, are the conditions to be secured.

==Dahlia.==--Make the ground on which this flower is to be planted
thoroughly rich. It is a rapid grower, and cannot attain to fine
proportions on a poor soil. If the plants are carefully prepared for the
change by free exposure on genial days, and also during warm nights,
they will scarcely feel the removal. When first put out, dress the
surrounding soil with soot to prevent injury by slugs, which show a
decided partiality for newly planted Dahlias. Give water freely when
requisite, and in staking the plants take care that the ties do not cut
the branches. These ties will require attention occasionally during the
summer and autumn.

==Delphinium.==--Sow the perennial varieties on a prepared bed. Thin
early, without removing all the weaker seedlings, and when sufficiently
advanced to bear removal, transfer to borders where the plants are to
flower.

==Hollyhocks== may be put into the borders when the weather is quite
warm. Wait until the end of the month, or even the beginning of June,
rather than have them nipped by an untimely frost. Like the Dahlia this
plant must have unstinted supplies of water and abundance of manure. A
tall stake, firmly fixed, will also be necessary for each plant.

==Nicotiana.==--Seed may be sown on an open, sunny border, but it is a
waste of seed and labour to put it into poor soil. Prepare the ground
beforehand by deep digging, and by incorporating plenty of manure. If
the near presence of other plants renders this impossible, drive a bar
into the soil and work a good-sized hole. Fill it with rich stuff to
within a few inches of the surface, and finish with fine soil, on which
sow the seed. This method can only be adopted for light land. In the
event of a cutting east wind after the seedlings are up, improvise some
kind of shelter until the danger is past.

==Petunias== are very sensitive under a frost or cold wind. Therefore be
in no hurry to bed the plants until quite the end of the month or
beginning of June, especially if the weather appears to be at all
threatening. A good mellow soil, free of recent manure, suits them. If
unduly rich, it will strengthen the foliage at the expense of the
flowers, and will also postpone the blooming until late in the season.

==Portulaca.==--It is useless to sow until the temperature is summerlike.
If necessary, wait until the close of the month, or longer, before
putting in the seed. This flower will endure neither a moist atmosphere
nor a retentive soil. Sow on raised beds of light soil, the more sandy
the better; and in seasons which speedily burn the life out of other
plants, Portulacas will display their beauty, no matter how fiercely the
sun may beat upon them. Water will occasionally be necessary, but it
should never be given until there is obvious need for it. Portulacas are
easily grown in pots or window-boxes, and they will bloom profusely
where many other flowers only wither and die.

==Primula.==--Almost every season witnesses the advent of some novelty in
this flower, either in colour or in form. And the plant is now worth
growing for the beauty and diversity of its foliage alone. The flowers
range from pure white through all shades of tender rose up to a deep,
rich crimson. After years of earnest effort, two beautiful blue flowers
have been obtained. There are also several elegant double strains, and
these possess a special value for bouquets, because of their enduring
quality. All the varieties, including the popular Star Primulas, can be
grown with ease in any soil which is fairly rich and friable. Equal
parts of leaf-mould and loam, with a little sand, will suit them to
perfection. Fill the pots firmly, taking precautions to insure effective
drainage. A thin layer of silver sand sifted over the soil will aid an
even sowing by showing up the seed. As a finish, shake over just enough
fine soil to hide the sand. Thin sowing is important, because the most
reliable new seed is almost certain to germinate at intervals, and the
plants which come first can then be lifted without imperilling the
remainder. Prick off as fast as ready round the edges of small pots, and
shade until established. Then give air more and more freely.

==Stock, Ten-week.==--The preparation of the soil is the first business,
and whether the Stocks are intended to be grown in small groups or alone
in beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light
land there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to
incorporate a sufficient quantity of decayed manure. If disposed to
incur a little extra trouble to give the plants a start, take out some
soil with a trowel, and fill the hole with compost from the potting
shed. This course is indispensable on heavy land; and assuming it to be
rich enough, the quickest and most effectual way is to make drills six
inches deep at the proper distances, and nearly fill them with prepared
soil, in which the Stocks can be planted. For a short time afterwards
provide shelter from the midday sun, but do not keep them covered a
moment longer than is necessary. In planting it must not be forgotten
that an uncertain proportion of single specimens will have to come out.
On this account it is advisable to put them in small groups, and remove
the surplus even if they are double,

==Sweet William==.--The introduction of several new varieties has created
a fresh interest in this fine old garden favourite. This is one of the
hardy biennials that will not be hustled. On a nicely prepared bed in
the open sow thinly in drills either during this month or up to July. In
due time transplant in rows, affording sufficient space for each
specimen to become stocky, and in autumn transfer to flowering quarters.

==Verbena==.--Beds for Verbenas should be rich, mellow, and very sweet. A
poor soil not only produces poor flowers, but it materially shortens the
blooming period. Peg the plants down from the outset, and allow them to
cross and recross each other until there is a sheet of glowing colour.

==Wallflower.==--This fragrant spring flower is not always grown as well
as it might be. It is often sown too late to become established before
winter sets in. Sow now in drills nine inches apart on friable loam.
Thin to three inches apart, and transplant the thinnings. A little later
repeat the operation, so as to leave the plants at a distance of six
inches in the rows. Assist them with water if necessary.

==Zinnia.==--A sowing in the open ground about the middle of the month
will provide plants in gardens where there are no means of raising them
artificially at an earlier date. Even those who possess a stock will be
wise to put a final sowing in the open. If possible, choose a sunny
border sloping to the south, and make the soil rich, fine, and rather
firm. Drop seeds in little groups of three or four at each spot,
allowing fifteen or eighteen inches between the groups. Cover lightly,
and eventually thin the plants to one at each station.

==JUNE==

The days are now at their longest, and plants in pits and houses should
have the full benefit of it. By opening the lights early, and shading in
good time, the flowering period will be greatly prolonged. Ply the
syringe over plants infested with aphis until they are quite clean. In
some instances, it may even be wise to pinch off young shoots which are
covered with the fly.

Keep Verbenas, Petunias, and the taller varieties of Phlox Drummondii
pegged down; this furnishes the beds and helps to check evaporation.

Rain and watering alike tend to harden the ground; and as this condition
does not favour growth, the surface should be frequently broken with the
hoe.

==Anemone.==--Those who grow this flower from seed should make another
sowing now or in July, even if they have thrifty plants from the
February sowing. By this arrangement the flowering period is prolonged,
and the finer blossoms will probably come from this month's sowing.

==Aquilegia== seed will germinate now in the open ground, and the plants
need no protection during winter.

==Balsam.==--As a rule, it is unwise to put Balsams into beds or borders
before the first week of this month. The plant revels in warmth and
light, and should have an open, sunny position. Its succulent nature
will indicate the necessity of giving abundant supplies of water. For so
fleshy and apparently fragile a plant, it is astonishing how well it
stands in a strong wind. From good strains the separate colours come so
true that the design of a bed can be accurately arranged. As pot plants
Balsams need no support, provided they are kept dwarf and stout, and
they make admirable decorative subjects. But for indoor use it is easy
to grow them in the open ground, and when well advanced they can be
lifted with care and potted. This procedure offers the advantages of a
choice of colours even from mixed seed and a selection of the most
robust plants.

==Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.==--This has proved to be one of the most
elegant and refined bedding subjects we possess, and it appears to
become more popular every year. The plant is also freely grown in the
reserve border to produce flowers for cutting. Employ specimens that are
large enough to make a show at once, and select plants of the
short-jointed class for outdoor work. They must have unusually rich
soil.

==Calceolaria.==--For wealth of bloom, combined with richness and
intensity of colouring, the Herbaceous Calceolaria has no rival among
biennials. A large greenhouse filled with fine specimens in their full
splendour is a sight which will not soon be forgotten. One great source
of interest lies in the annual changes in shades of colour, and the
variations in the markings of individual flowers. From a first-class
strain of seed, high expectation will not be disappointed. Indeed, the
excellence of seedlings is so fully recognised, that there is not the
smallest advantage in propagating the plant by the tedious method of
cuttings. But Calceolarias will not be trifled with. They must have an
even temperature and unremitting attention to maintain a thriving
condition. Fill the seed-pans or pots firmly with a compost which is
both rich and porous; the last point is of great consequence in helping
to secure free drainage. Make the surface perfectly even, and whiten it
with silver sand; this answers the double purpose of revealing the seed
and afterwards of showing when it is sufficiently dusted over with fine
soil. Whether or not this method be adopted, the sowing must be thin and
even, and as the seed is exceedingly fine, the task is rather a delicate
one. Sheets of glass placed over the pans and turned daily will check
rapid evaporation. Place the pans in a moist, shady spot, where the
temperature is constant, and germination will take place in from seven
to nine days, when the glass must be promptly removed. Then comes a
critical stage, and a little neglect may result in the loss of past
labour, and necessitate a fresh start. Still keep the pans in some
sheltered corner which can be thoroughly shaded from the sun. This
question of shade needs much vigilance. So also does the supply of
water, which must not be administered wholesale, but rather by frequent
gentle sprinklings. On the appearance of the second leaf, promptly prick
off the seedlings in carefully prepared pots, allowing about two inches
between them. They will need dexterous manipulation because of their
small size, but a skilful hand will transfer them without injury, and
perhaps with a little soil adhering to the roots. As all the seedlings
will not be ready at one time, it will probably require about three
operations to clear the seed-pans, and the early removals should be so
made as to avoid injuring the remainder. A pen, with the point firmly
pressed into the holder, makes a small handy implement for the task.
Retain the seedlings in a sheltered position, and continue the attention
as to shade and watering. In about a month the plants will be ready for
thumb pots.

==Canna.==--In the mixed border, and also in the sub-tropical garden,
Cannas are much valued for the exceeding grace and beauty of their
foliage. They should be put into very rich soil; and, like all other
plants of rapid growth, they will need copious supplies of water in dry
weather. In mild districts and on dry soils the plants may remain out
all the winter, under the protection of a heap of ashes. But, as a rule,
it will be necessary to store them in frames until spring; and they may
be finer in the second than in the first season.

==Cineraria.==--To insure a succession, and where a sufficient stock is
not already provided, another sowing should be made, following the
method advised last month. The seedlings, when transferred to small
pots, should be put into a close frame, and be sprinkled with water
morning and evening until the roots take hold. At first it is desirable
to keep them fairly warm, but in a fortnight the heat may be gradually
reduced and more air be given until cool treatment is reached. The
plants will need potting on up to November, when they should go into the
final size; and, except for special purposes, 6-1/4-or 7-1/2-inch pots
are large enough. Cinerarias are sought after by every pest which
infests the greenhouse. We need only say that by fumigation, sulphur, or
by syringing with a suitable insecticide, the plants must be kept clean,
or they cannot be healthy.

==Daisy, Double.==--The finest blooms are obtained from seedlings raised
annually, and the general practice is to sow in the open ground during
this month or July. When large enough transplant to good ground for
blooming in the following season. The new Giant forms of the Double
Daisy are of superb size, closely resembling finely shaped Asters in
form.

==Dianthus.==--For a display next summer, sow in drills drawn six inches
apart in an open situation, and cover the seed lightly with fine soil.
Shade the spot until the plants show.

==Geranium.==--Sometimes a difficulty is experienced in bringing Geranium
seedlings into flower. They possess so much initial vigour that the
production of wood continues to the very end of the season. Plants which
show signs of excessive growth should be put into the border without
removing the pots. This check to the roots will throw the plants into
luxuriant bloom.

==Gladioli== are very liable to injury by high wind, and stakes should be
put to them in good time. Each plant may have a separate support, and
this is the most perfect treatment; or the stakes may be at intervals,
or at the ends of rows, connected by lengths of strong, soft material,
to which intervening stems can be secured. The work should be done
carefully, and if the flowers are intended for exhibition they must also
be shaded by some means. This may be a cheap or a costly proceeding; but
in whatever manner it is carried out, security is essential, or the
whole bed may be ruined.

==Hollyhock.==--A sowing in the open ground will produce plants for
wintering in the cold frame; and if generously treated, they will make a
fine show in the following year.

==Myosotis.==--During this month sow Sutton's Pot Myosotis and bring
forward in a cold frame for winter decoration, for which purpose this
plant is rapidly increasing in favour. Seed of the hardy varieties may
also be sown now or in July, choosing a shady spot in the open ground.
Transplant when large enough.

==Nicotiana.==--To expose Tobacco plants before warm weather is
established will give them a check from which they may not recover until
the summer is half over, if they recover at all. Spare frames with
movable lights will prepare them admirably and save labour. The second
week of this month is generally warm enough for the planting. The
seedlings must have a very rich soil, and abundance of water in dry
weather. A heavy mulch of decayed manure will supply them with food and
check evaporation.

==Pansy.==--From the end of May to the end of July seedlings may be raised
in the open ground. Thin and transplant when ready.

==Polyanthus== to be sown from May to July on a shaded border. Thin the
seedlings boldly, and bed the thinnings. Those raised early will flower
next spring, but the later seedlings cannot be depended on for blooming
in the first year.

==Portulaca.==--The weather may have been too cold and wet for sowing in
May, or seed then sown may have failed; happily, there is yet ample time
for raising this flower, in either beds or pots.

==Primrose.==--This fine old favourite may be grown from seed in various
tints of yellow and almost any shade of colour from white to deep
crimson; an effective blue has also been achieved. Primroses make
beautiful pot and border flowers. Seed may be sown from May to July.
Seed-pans can be used, or the sowing may be made in drills in the open.
In the latter case, a free dressing of soot must be employed to render
the spot distasteful to slugs. When transplanting, give the plants a
deep retentive loam if possible, and a shady position.

==Primula.==--To insure a succession of flowers next spring, make another
sowing as advised under May. Seedlings which are ready should be got
into small pots, and afterwards they must be re-potted when necessary;
but never shift them until the pots are full of roots, and always put
them in firmly up to the collar.

==Solanum.==--The berried varieties may be grown entirely in pots, or they
can be put into beds for the summer, from which they will lift for
potting again just as the handsome berries are turning colour. The
spiny-leaved varieties are valuable for sub-tropical gardening. Small
plants are of little worth, hence they should be put into very rich
soil, with a thick layer of manure on the surface, and have copious
supplies of water to induce free growth.

==Stock, Spring-flowering.==--This valuable section, which includes the
popular Brompton strain, usually comes into bloom in May and June. Seed
is sometimes sown where the plants are to flower, but a certain degree
of risk attends this mode of procedure, and Spring-flowering Stocks are
so valuable that they are worth more careful treatment. Either now or in
July sow in pans, and place them under shelter until the plants are an
inch high; then stand them in the open for a week before planting out.

==Stock, Winter-flowering.==--For their refreshing colours and delightful
perfume Stocks are highly prized during the winter months. To have them
in flower at Christmas, seed of Christmas Pink or Beauty of Nice should
be sown in June. It is usual to grow three or more plants in a pot,
according to size. At the fall of the year place them in the
conservatory or a cool greenhouse, and give assistance in the form of
weak liquid manure as soon as the buds appear. Other suitable varieties,
of which there are a number, may be sown in July or August for flowering
indoors through the winter and spring months.

==Wallflower.==--If no seed was sown in May the task ought not to be
neglected this month.

==Zinnia.==--The first week of June is about the right time to bed
Zinnias, and there are three facts to be borne in mind concerning them.
They do not transplant well, and therefore a showery day should, if
possible, be selected for moving them. In the absence of rain, be
liberal with water. They are very brittle, and should have a position
somewhat sheltered from the full force of the wind; and as they revel in
sunshine, the more roasting the season the finer will be the flowers.

==JULY==

==Antirrhinum.==--A sowing in drills during the present month or August
will supply plants for flowering next year. Transfer direct from the
seed-bed to the positions where they are intended to bloom.

==Calceolaria.==--If more plants are wanted, sow again. Among the
seedlings which we left last month just as they had been pricked off, it
will soon be evident that there is a wide difference between the
strength of the plants. As a rule, the most robust are those in which
yellow largely predominates. These make bright and showy decorative
plants, but the colours that are especially valued by florists will
probably come from the seedlings which are weakly in the early stage.
Hence these should be specially prized, and under skilful management
they may be grown into grand specimens. The thumb pots for Calceolarias
need careful preparation with crocks covered with clean moss or
vegetable fibre, and they must be filled with rich porous compost.
Transfer the plants with extreme care, and place them in a sheltered
part of the greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air
on the leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with--and it is very
partial to Calceolarias--fumigation is the best remedy. Choose a quiet
evening for the operation; on the following day carefully water the
plants and shade them from the sun.

==Campanula.==--The perennial varieties may still be sown, either in pans
or in the open. Give them a good light soil, and do not stint the supply
of water.