Sutton and Sons - The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

S >> Sutton and Sons >> The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots, 16th Edition

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==CARROT==

==Daucus Carota==

The Carrot is a somewhat fastidious root, for although it is grown in
every garden, it is not everywhere produced in the best style possible.
The handsome long roots that are seen in the leading markets are the
growth of deep sandy soils well tilled. On heavy lumpy land long clean
roots cannot be secured by any kind of tillage. But for these unsuitable
soils there are Sutton's Early Gem, the Champion Horn, and Intermediate,
which require no great depth of earth; while for deep loams the New Red
Intermediate answers admirably.

==Forcing.==--Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They
cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be
palatable. It is usual to begin in November, and to sow down a bed every
three or four weeks until February. A lasting hot-bed is of the first
importance, and it is therefore necessary to have a good supply of
stable manure and leaves. The material should be thoroughly mixed and
allowed to ferment for a few days. Then turn the heap again, and a few
days later the bed may be made up. In order to conserve the heat the
material will need to be three to four feet deep, and if a box frame is
used the bed should be at least two feet wider than the frame. Build up
the material in even, well-consolidated layers, to prevent unequal and
undue sinking, and make the corners of the bed perfectly sound. Put on
the bed about one foot depth of fine, rich soil; if there is any
difficulty about this, eight inches must suffice, but twelve is to be
preferred. As the season advances less fermenting material will be
needed, and a simple but effective hot-bed may be made by digging out a
hole of the required size and filling it with the manure. The latter
will in due time sink, when the soil may be added and the frame placed
in position. The bed should always be near the glass, and a great point
is gained if the crop can be carried through without once giving water,
for watering tends to damage the shape of the roots. No seed should be
sown until the temperature has declined to 80 deg.. Sow broadcast, cover
with siftings just deep enough to hide the seed, and close the frame. If
after an interval the heat rises above 70 deg., give air to keep it down to
that figure or to 65 deg.. It will probably decline to 60 deg. by the time the
plant appears, but if the bed is a good one it will stand at that figure
long enough to make the crop. Thin betimes to two or three inches, give
air at every opportunity, let the plant have all the light possible, and
cover up when hard weather is expected. Should the heat go down too
soon, linings must be used to finish the crop. Radishes and other small
things can be grown on the same bed. In cold frames seed may be sown in
February.

==Warm Borders.==--In March the first sowings on warm borders in the open
garden may be made. These may need the shelter of mats or old lights
until the plant has made a good start, but it is not often the plant
suffers in any serious degree from spring frosts, as the seed will not
germinate until the soil acquires a safe temperature. All the early
crops of Carrot can be grown on a prepared soil, or a light sandy loam,
free from recent manure. The drills may be spaced from six to nine
inches apart.

==For the main crops== double digging should be practised, and if the
staple is poor a dressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the
bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is not
to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to fork and
fang most injuriously. It is sound practice to select for Carrots a deep
soil that was heavily manured the year before, and to prepare this by
double digging without manure in the autumn or winter, so as to have the
ground well pulverised by the time the seed is sown. Then dig it over
one spit deep, break the lumps, and make seed-beds four feet wide. Sow
in April and onwards in drills, mixing the seed with dry earth, the
distance between rows to be eight to twelve inches according to the
sort; cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine earth and finish the bed
neatly. As soon as possible thin the crop, but not to the full distance
in the first instance. The final spacing for main crops may be from six
to nine inches, determined by the variety. By a little management it
will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw delicate young
Carrots for the final thinning, and these will admirably succeed the
latest of the sowings in frames and warm borders.

==Late Crops.==--Sowings of early varieties made in July will give
delicate little roots during the autumn and winter. The rows may be
placed nine inches apart, and it is essential to thin the plants early
to about three inches apart in the rows. In the event of very severe
weather protect with dry litter. For providing young Carrots throughout
the winter it is also an excellent plan to broadcast seed thinly. When
grown in this way the plants afford each other protection, and the roots
may be drawn immediately they are large enough.

In July the culture of the smaller sorts may also be undertaken in
frames, but hot-beds may be dispensed with, and lights will not be
wanted until there is a crop needing protection, when the lights may be
put on, or the frames may be covered with shutters or mats.

==Storing.==--Before autumn frosts set in the main crop should be lifted
and stored in dry earth or sand, the tops being removed and the earth
rubbed off, but without any attempt to clean them thoroughly until they
are wanted for use.

==Carrots for Exhibition.==--It will be found well worth while to give a
little extra attention to the preparation of the ground when growing
Carrots for exhibition. As in the case of Beet and Parsnip, holes should
be bored to the requisite depth and about one foot apart in the rows.
Where the soil is at all unfavourable to the growth of clean symmetrical
roots the adoption of this practice will be essential to success. Any
light soil of good quality will be suitable for filling the holes. Well
firm the material in and sow about half a dozen seeds at a station,
eventually thinning out to one plant at each. The tendency of Carrots to
become green at the tops in the later stages of growth, thus spoiling
them for show work, may be prevented by lightly covering the protruding
portion of the root with sifted fine earth.

==Destructive Enemies.==--The Carrot maggot and the wire-worm are
destructive enemies of this crop. In a later chapter on 'The Pests of
Garden Plants,' both these foes are referred to. Here it is only
necessary to say that sound judgment as to the choice of ground, deep
digging, and the preparation of the beds in good time, are the
preventives of these as of many other garden plagues. It is often
observed that main crops sown early in April suffer more than those sown
late, and the lesson is plain. It has also been noticed that where the
crops have suffered most severely the land was made ready in haste, and
the wild birds had no time to purge it of the insects which they daily
seek for food.

==CAULIFLOWER==

==Brassica oleracea botrytis cauliflora==

This fine vegetable is managed in much the same way as Broccoli, and it
requires similar conditions. But it is less hardy in constitution, more
elegant in appearance, more delicate on the table, and needs greater
care in cultivation to insure satisfactory results. As regards soil, the
Cauliflower thrives best on very rich ground of medium texture. It will
also do well on light land, if heavily manured, and quick growth is
promoted by abundant watering. In Holland, Cauliflowers are grown in
sand with water at the depth of a foot only below the surface, and the
ground is prepared by liberal dressings of cow-manure, which, with the
moisture rising from below, promotes a quick growth and a fine quality.
In any case, good cultivation is necessary or the crop will be
worthless; and whatever may be the nature of the soil, it must be well
broken up and liberally manured.

In gardens where Cauliflower are in great demand, an unbroken supply of
heads from May to November may be obtained by selecting suitable
varieties and with careful management of the crop. But in arranging for
a succession it should be borne in mind that some varieties are
specially adapted for producing heads in spring and summer, while others
are only suitable for use in late summer and autumn.

==For Spring and Early Summer use.==--To have Cauliflower in perfection in
spring and early summer, seed should be sown in autumn. The exact time
is a question of climate. In the northern counties the middle of August
is none too early, but for the south seed may be got in during August
and September, according to local conditions. The most satisfactory
course is to sow in boxes, placed in a cool greenhouse or a cold frame,
or even in a sheltered spot out of doors. For these sowings it is
desirable to use poor soil of a calcareous nature, as at this period of
the year the seedlings are liable to damp off in rich earth. From the
commencement every endeavour must be made to keep the growth sturdy and
to avoid a check of any kind. When the plants have made some progress,
prick them off three inches apart each way into frames for the winter.
No elaborate appliances are necessary. A suitable frame may be easily
constructed by erecting wooden sides around a prepared bed of soil, over
which lights, window frames, or even a canvas covering may be placed.
Brick pits, or frames made with turf walls, will also answer well. The
soil should not be rich, or undesirable fleshy growth will result,
especially in a mild winter. It is important to ventilate freely at all
times, except during severe weather when the structures should have the
protection of mats or straw, and excessive moisture must be guarded
against. As soon as conditions are favourable in February or March,
transfer the plants to open quarters on the best land at command, and
give them every possible care. For these early-maturing varieties a
space of eighteen inches apart each way will generally suffice. With
liberal treatment, vigorous healthy growth should be made and heads of
the finest quality be ready for table from May onwards.

As we have already said, the best results with early Cauliflower are
obtained from an autumn sowing, but there are many growers who prefer to
sow in January or February. At this season the seed should be started in
pans or boxes placed in a house just sufficiently heated to exclude
frost. Prick out the plants early, in a frame or on a protected border
made up with light rich soil, and when strong enough plant out on good
ground. Spring sowings put out on poor land, or in dry seasons, are
sometimes disappointing, because the heads are too small to please the
majority of growers. Where, however, the soil is rich and the district
suitable there is this advantage in quick cultivation, that while time
is shortened and the worry of wintering is avoided, the crop is safer
against buttoning and bolting, which will occasionally occur if the
plants become too forward under glass and receive a check when planted
out.

In well-prepared sheltered ground seed may also be sown in March and
April, from which the plants should be pricked out once before being
transferred to permanent positions. Occasional hoeing between the plants
and heavy watering in dry weather will materially tend to their
well-doing, the object being to maintain growth from the first without a
check. If the plants turn in during very hot weather, snap one of the
inner leaves without breaking it off, and bend it over to protect the
head.

==For use in Late Summer and Autumn.==--Seed may be sown in April or very
early in May, and where only one sowing is made the first week of April
should be selected. A fine seed-bed in a sheltered spot is desirable,
and as soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be pricked
out, three inches or so apart. Shift to final quarters while in a
smallish state. If the plants are allowed to become somewhat large in
the seed-bed they are liable to 'button,' which means that small,
worthless heads will be produced as the result of an untimely check. The
distances between the plants may vary from one and a half to two feet or
more, and between the rows from two to two and a half feet, according to
the size of the variety. If put out on good ground, the crop will almost
take care of itself, but should the plants need water it must be
copiously given.

==Cutting and Preserving.==--The management of the crop has been treated
so far as to growth, but we must now say a word about its appropriation.
The two points for practical consideration are, how to economise a glut,
and how to avoid destruction by frost. Cauliflowers should be cut at
daybreak, or as soon after as possible, and be taken from the ground
with the dew upon them. If cut after the dew has evaporated, the heads
will be inferior by several degrees as compared with those cut at the
dawn of the day. When the heads appear at too rapid a rate for immediate
consumption, draw the plants, allowing the earth to remain attached to
the roots, and suspend them head downwards in a cool, dark, dry place,
and every evening give them a light shower of water from a syringe. The
deterioration will be but trifling, and the gain may be considerable,
but if left to battle with a burning sun the Cauliflowers will certainly
be the worse for it. After being kept in this way for a week, they will
still be good, although, like other preserved vegetables, they will not
be so good as those freshly cut and in their prime. It often happens
that frost occurs before the crop is finished. A similar plan of
preserving those that are turning in may be adopted, but it is better to
bury them in sand in a shed or under a wall, and, if kept dry, they may
remain sound for a month or more.

==Cauliflower for Exhibition.==--On the exhibition stage few vegetables
win greater admiration than well-grown heads of Cauliflower. Indeed,
Cauliflower and Broccoli, in their respective seasons, are indispensable
items in the composition of any first-class collection. By closely
following the cultural directions contained in the foregoing pages no
difficulty should be experienced in obtaining heads of the finest
texture and spotless purity during many months of the year. The degree
of success achieved is generally in proportion to the amount of
attention devoted to minor details. Select the most robust plants and
treat them generously. As soon as the heads are formed, examine them
frequently to prevent disfiguration by vermin. The best period of the
day for cutting has already been discussed. Do not allow the heads to
stand a day longer than is necessary, and if not wanted immediately the
plants should be lifted and preserved in the manner described in the
preceding paragraph.

==CELERY==

==Apium graveolens==

Celery is everywhere esteemed, not only as a salad, but as a wholesome
and delicious vegetable. The crop requires the very best of cultivation,
and care should be taken not to push the growth too far, for the
gigantic Celery occasionally seen at Shows has, generally speaking, the
quality of size only, being tough and tasteless. Nevertheless, the sorts
that are held in high favour by growers of prize Celery are good in
themselves when grown to a moderate size; it is the forcing system alone
that deprives them of flavour. Yet another precaution may be needful to
prevent a mishap. In a hot summer, Celery will sometimes 'bolt' or run
up to flower, in which case it is worthless. This may be the fault of
the cultivator more than of the seed or the weather, for a check in many
cases hastens the flowering of plants, and it is not unusual for Celery
to receive a check through mismanagement. If sown too early, it may be
impossible to plant out when of suitable size, and the consequent arrest
of growth at a most important stage may result in a disposition to
flower the first year, instead of waiting for the second. It should be
understood, therefore, that early sowing necessitates early planting,
and the cultivator should see his way clearly from the commencement.

==Sowing and Transplanting.==--The 1st of March is early enough for a
first sowing anywhere of a small variety, and this will require a mild
hot-bed, or a place in the propagating house. Sow on rich fine soil in
boxes, cover lightly, and place in a temperature of 60 deg.. When forward
enough prick out the plants on a rich bed close to the glass, in a
temperature of 60 deg. to 65 deg., keep liberally moist, and give air, at first
with great caution, but increasing as the natural temperature rises
until the lights can be removed during the day. The plant may thus be
hardened for a first planting on a warm border in a bed consisting of
one-half rotten hot-bed manure and one-half of turfy loam. The bed need
not be deep, but it must be constantly moist, and old lights should be
at hand to give shelter when needful. If well grown in trenches, this
first crop will be of excellent quality, and will come in early.

For the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and
White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March,
and have treatment similar to the first, but once pricking out into the
open bed will be sufficient, the largest plants being put out first at
six inches, and to have shelter if needful; other plantings in the same
way to follow until the seed-bed is cleared. By good management this
sowing may be made to serve the purpose of three sowings, the chief
point being to prick out the most forward plants on another mild bed as
soon as they are large enough to be lifted, and to make a succession
from the same seed-bed as the plants advance to a suitable size.

The third and last sowing may be made in the second week of April, in an
open border, on rich light soil, and should have the shelter of mats or
old lights during cold weather. From this, also, there should be two or
three prickings out, the first to be transferred to a bit of hard
ground, covered with about three inches of rich mulchy stuff, in the
warmest spot that can be found, and the last to a similar bed on the
coldest spot in the garden. In the final planting the same order should
be followed. The result will be a prolonged supply from one sowing, and
the first lot will come in early, though sown late, if the plants are
kept growing without a check, and receive thoroughly generous culture.

==The planting out== is an important matter, and each lot will require
separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan.
Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to
make it fit for table. There are various ways of accomplishing these
ends, although they differ but slightly, and common sense will guide us
in the matter. For the earliest crops the ground must be laid out in
trenches, with as much rich stable manure dug in as can be afforded. To
overdo it in this respect seems impossible, for Celery, like
Cauliflower, will grow freely in rotten manure alone, without any
admixture of loam. The trenches should be eighteen inches wide at
bottom, ten inches deep, and four feet from centre to centre, and should
run north and south. The plants are to be carefully lifted with a
trowel, and placed six to nine inches apart in single or double rows,
and should have water as planted, that there may be no check. In a cold
soil and a cold season the trenches may be less in depth by two or three
inches with advantage. If dry weather ensues, water must be given
ungrudgingly, but earthing up should not commence until the plant has
made a full and profitable growth, for the earthing pretty well stops
the growth, and is but a finishing process, requiring from five to seven
weeks to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put out in
the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but as the
season advances the trenches must be less deep.

==Earthing up== is often performed in a rough way, as though the plant
were made of wood instead of the most delicate tissue. The first
earthing should be done with a hand-fork, and quite loosely, to allow
the heart of the plant room to expand. The result should be a little
ring of light earth scarcely pressing the outside leaves, and leaving
the whole plant as free as it was before. A fortnight or so later the
earthing must be carried a stage further by means of the spade. Chop the
earth over, and lay it in heaps on each side of the plant. Then gather a
plant together with both hands, liberate one hand, and with it bring the
earth to the plant half round the base, and, changing hands, pack up the
earth on the other side. Be careful not to press the soil very close;
also avoid putting any crumbs into the heart of the plant; and do not
earth higher than the base of the leaves. As soon as may be necessary
repeat this process, carrying the earth a stage higher; and about a week
from this finish the operation.

The top of the plant must now be closed, and the earth carefully packed
so high that only the very tops of the leaves are visible. Finish to a
proper slope with the spade, but do not press the plants unduly, the
object being simply to obtain a final growth of the innermost leaves in
darkness, but otherwise free from restraint.

==The Bed System== answers particularly well for producing a large supply
of Celery with the least amount of labour. This method of cultivation is
also especially suitable for raising Celery intended to be served when
boiled, or for soups. Celery beds are made four and a half feet wide and
ten inches deep, the soil which is taken out being laid up in a slope
round the outside of the bed, and the bank thus formed may be planted
with any quick crop, such as Dwarf Beans. The ground will need to be
heavily manured in the same manner as for the trench system. Space the
plants six inches apart in single or double lines, as may be preferred,
and allow not less than twelve inches between the rows. Water must be
given to each row as planted; afterwards the surface to be several times
chopped over with the hoe or a small fork, and watering repeated until
the plants have made a start. An easy means of blanching is by the use
of stiff paper collars as described below; another simple method is to
place mats over the tops of the plants when nearly full grown. The bed
system is not only economical, but convenient for sheltering in winter,
and should have the attention of gardeners who are expected to supply
abundance of Celery throughout the winter and spring, for in such cases
a large sample is not required, but quality and continuance are of
importance.

It is a great point to keep Celery unhurt by frost far on in the winter,
and the advantage of growing the late crops on dry light soil, and on
the bed system, will be seen in the ease with which the plants can be
preserved. On heavy soil Celery soon suffers from frost, but not so
readily on a soil naturally light and dry. Moreover, the bed system
allows of many methods of protection, with whatever materials are at
command. In heavy soil fine crops of Celery for autumn use may be grown,
but in consequence of the liability of the plant to suffer by winter
damp, it is advisable to plant late crops on the level, and earth up
from the adjoining plots in order to keep the roots dry in winter.
Another step towards securing a late supply consists in bending the tops
on one side at the final earthing, which prevents the trickling of water
into the heart of the plant during heavy rain or snow.

==Celery for Exhibition.==--From the opening paragraph it will be gathered
that to produce extra fine specimens of Celery for exhibition very
generous treatment of the plants is necessary. Apart from the choice of
varieties--and only the finest strains should be considered--four points
are of especial importance to the cultivator. The ground must be
liberally enriched; at no period should the plant receive a check or
suffer for want of water; there must be the closest inspection at
frequent intervals to prevent disfiguration of the stalks or leaves by
slugs, snails, or the Celery fly; and finally the operation of blanching
will need great care and discretion. These points have already been
dealt with at some length. But on the question of blanching it may be
well to add that in order to insure perfect specimens, free from
blemish, artificial means of some kind must be adopted in place of
earthing up in the ordinary way. The use of strips of good quality brown
paper will prove both simple and effectual. These strips need not exceed
a width of five or six inches, fresh bands being added as growth
develops. Tie them securely with raffia or twine, making due allowance
for expansion of the plant, and when in position carefully draw the soil
towards the base.

==The numerous enemies of Celery==, such as slugs, snails, the
mole-cricket, and the maggot, do not seriously interfere with the crop
where good cultivation prevails, but the Celery fly appears to be
indifferent to good cultivation, and therefore must be dealt with
directly. Dusting the leaves occasionally with soot has been found to
operate beneficially. It should be done during the month of June on the
mornings of days that promise to be sunny. If the soot is put on
carelessly it will do more harm than good; a very fine dusting will
suffice to render the plant distasteful to the fly. Syringing the leaves
with water impregnated with tar has also saved plants from attack. Where
the eggs are lodged the leaves will soon appear blistered, and the
maggot within must be crushed by pinching the blister between the thumb
and finger. Leaves that are much blistered should be removed and burned,
but to rob the plants of many leaves will seriously reduce the vigour of
growth.