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14 THE
LADIES' WORK-BOOK
CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN
Knitting, Crochet, Point-Lace, &c.
[Illustration]
LONDON:
JOHN CASSELL, LA BELL SAUVAGE YARD, LUDGATE HILL.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Casting on with one needle
To cast on with two needles
Plain knitting
The German manner
Purling
To make a stitch
To take up stitches
To knit two pieces together
To form a round
To cast off
Infant's shoe in knitting
The tulip-wreath flower-vase mat
A woven parasol
Anti-macassar
Anti-macassar
Netted anti-macassar
Bound couverette for an easy chair or sofa
Floral anti-macassar
Ottoman cover
Music-stool couverette
Chair cushion
Toilet-cover in crochet
Star-pattern d'oyley
Crochet d'oyley
Rose d'oyley
Toilet cover
Tidy in square crochet
Arabesque toilet cover in square crochet
Cover for a Hadrot lamp
Lamp mat
Candle-lamp mat
Hand-screen
Crochet counterpane for a bassinet
Deep border for bassinet quilt
Crochet stripe for bed-quilt
Centre stripe for bed-quilt
Handkerchief case, for hanging to the head of a bed
Watchpocket
Toilet sachet
A lady's nightcap
A shaving tidy
Oval tidy for easy chair
Crochet window-curtain
Window-curtain
Window-curtain and stove apron
Netted window-curtain
Bread-cloth
Bread-cloth
A spangled wool netted cover for a tea-poy, square work-table, or if
drawn together at the top, makes a glittering fire-veil
Netted anti-macassar
Short purse, in netting
Bridal purse, in crochet
Lady's short purse
Handsome purse
Mousquetaire crochet collar
Raised rose crochet collar
Point collar
Point collar, in crochet
Lounging-cap, in crochet
Crochet edgings and insertions
Insertions
Venetian edging
Venetian bars
Edging Venetian bars
Sorrento bars
Stitches
Open English lace
Brabant edging
Lyons point
Brussels lace
Little Venetian lace
Deep point-lace edging
Collar in Spanish rose point
Handkerchief border, in antique point lace
Apron in broderie en lacet
Pincushion cover in point lace
Pincushion
* * * * *
THE
LADIES' WORK BOOK.
* * * * *
KNITTING.
There is not one art practised by ladies which is more deservedly
popular than Knitting. It is so easy, requires so little eyesight, and
is susceptible of so much ornament, that it merits the attention of
every lady; and in giving instructions for acquiring it, we add, also,
such admirable diagrams of the various processes, we are sure that no
difficulty will be felt in executing any pattern.
[Illustration: CASTING ON WITH ONE NEEDLE.]
The first process in knitting is known by the term CASTING ON. There
are two ways of doing this: with one needle, and with two. Our first
diagram represents the former process. Take the thread between
the second and third fingers of the left hand, leaving an end of about
a yard for every hundred stitches; pass it round the thumb of that
hand, giving it a twist, so as to form a loop. Take a knitting-needle
in the right hand, insert the point in the loop, and pass the thread
from the ball round the needle; then bend the point of the needle
through the loop, which tighten, and one stitch will be complete.
Continue to make loops over the thumb, with the end of thread, and
knit them with that from the ball until the proper number is cast on.
TO CAST ON WITH TWO NEEDLES (generally called the Spanish method),
begin by making a loop on the end of the thread, into which slip the
point of one needle, holding it in the left hand. Take the other
needle in the right hand, and slip its point into the same loop, bring
the thread round the point of this needle, and bend the needle towards
you, so that the thread forms a loop on it. Slip that also on the left
needle, without withdrawing it from the right. Put the thread round
the right again, and repeat the process.
[Illustration: TO CAST ON WITH TWO NEEDLES.]
PLAIN KNITTING.--After all the stitches are cast on, hold the needle
containing them in the left hand. Pass the thread round the little
finger of the right hand, _under_ the second and third, and above the
point of the first. Then take the other needle in the right hand, slip
the point in the first stitch, and put the thread round it; bring
forward the point of the right-hand needle, so that the thread forms a
loop on it. Slip the end of the left-hand needle out of the stitch,
and a new stitch is knitted.
GERMAN MANNER.--The thread, instead of being held by the fingers of
the right hand, is passed over and under those of the left. The
process otherwise is exactly the same.
PURLING.--Begin by bringing the thread in front of the right-hand
needle, which slip into a stitch pointing towards you; that is
in the reverse of the usual mode (see diagram). Put the thread round
the point of the needle, still bringing it towards you, bend the
needle backwards to form a loop, and withdraw the stitch from the
point of the left-hand needle.
[Illustration: PLAIN KNITTING.]
When knitted and purled stitches occur in the same row, the thread
must be brought forward before a purled stitch, and taken back before
a knitted one.
[Illustration: THE GERMAN MANNER.]
TO MAKE A STITCH. Bring the thread in front, as if for a purled
stitch, so that when you knit one the thread will pass over the
needle, and will make a hole in the following row. This diagram shows
the manner of making three stitches, and any other number could be
made, by putting the thread round a proportionate number of times. In
the engraving it will be seen that the thread is put twice entirely
round the needle; and then brought forward, so that the next knitted
stitch will take it over a third time. In doing the next row, knit
one, purl one, knit one of these stitches; however many are
made, they must be alternately knitted and purled in the next
row. When the stitch allowing the made stitches is to be purled, the
thread must be entirely passed round the needle, once for every stitch
to be made, and brought forward also.
[Illustration: PURLING.]
[Illustration: TO MAKE A STITCH.]
SLIP STITCH.--Pass a stitch from the left needle to the right, without
knitting it. There are two ways of decreasing: first, by knitting two,
three, or more stitches as one, marked in knitting, as k 2 t, k
3 t, etc. Secondly, in the following way: slip one stitch, knit-one,
pass the slip stitch over: this decreases one stitch. To decrease two;
slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over.
[Illustration: TO TAKE UP STITCHES.]
A reverse stitch is taken off the left-hand needle, in the reverse way
to knitting and purling. In both these, the right-hand needle is
inserted in the middle of the stitch, and the point brought out
towards you or otherwise. But to make a reverse stitch, you insert the
point of the needle in the stitch _at the back of the work_, and bring
it forward through the opening in which it generally is inserted. The
thread is to be placed round it, as for a purled stitch.
[Illustration: TO KNIT TWO PIECES TOGETHER.]
To reverse two, three, or more stitches together, insert the needle in
them all at once, _from the last to the first_.
TO TAKE UP STITCHES.--Insert the needle in the loop, pass the thread
round, and knit it in the usual manner. Do not draw out any loop more
than can be avoided, while knitting it.
TO KNIT TWO PIECES TOGETHER.--To do this there must be an equal number
of stitches on both.
[Illustration: TO FORM A ROUND.]
Hold the needles together in the right hand, and knit as usual,
inserting the left-hand needle in a loop of each at the same time, and
treating the two as one.
[Illustration: TO CAST OFF.]
TO FORM A ROUND:--This diagram represents the French manner of
performing this process by casting the whole number of stitches
on one needle, and then distributing them on three, or perhaps four.
But the English mode is to divide the number of stitches, and cast so
many on each needle, not withdrawing the last stitch of each needle
from the point of the next needle. When all are cast on, the round is
made by knitting the _two first_ stitches on to the last needle. Four
needles are employed for stockings, five for doyleys and other round
articles.
To cast off:--knit two stitches, insert the point of the left hand
needle in the first stitch, and draw it on the other. Knit another
stitch, and treat these two in the same way.
* * * * *
INFANT'S SHOE, IN KNITTING.
MATERIALS.--1 ounce of white Berlin wool. 1 skein of white, and 1 of
embroidery wool, 4 knitting needles, No. 21, and 2, No. 19.
With the fine needles cast 30 stitches on one, and 20 on each of two
others. Join into a round, and purl one round.
[Illustration: INFANT'S SHOE, IN KNITTING]
1st pattern round: X slip 2, taking them off the needle in the same
way as if you were going to purl them, but with the wool at the back;
knit 3. X repeat all round.
2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds: the same.
5th and 6th: purl every stitch.
7th to 10th inclusive: X knit 3, slip 2 as before, X repeat all round,
11th and 12th purled.
13th to 16th inclusive: X knit 2, slip 2 as before, knit 1, X repeat
all round.
17th and 18th purled. Repeat these 18 rounds again.
Then do the same twice more; but, instead of knitting three stitches,
always decrease by knitting two together (once) on the needle
that has the thirty stitches in every row which is not plainly purled,
until only twelve stitches are left on it.
When 72 rounds are done, the boot will be sufficiently long. Purl two
rounds, divide the whole number of stitches on two needles, taking
care that the 12 stitches shall be exactly in the centre of one; then
join up the toe by casting off, knitting one stitch from each needle
together.
Now take up the twenty centre stitches of the 70 originally cast
on--that is, the twenty middle ones of the thirty that were on one
needle, and which were decreased to twelve. Knit them backwards and
forwards 40 rows. With another needle take up on each edge of this
plain knitting 20 more stitches, so that there are 60 altogether.
These stitches must be knitted backwards and forwards thus:--
1st row: X knit 3, slip 2 as before, X repeat with the last stitch,
take up one of the 70 next to the 20.
2nd: Slip 2, but as if you were going to knit plain, purl 3. Repeat;
join on to the 70 at the other end.
3rd: Like first.
4th: Like 2nd.
5th: Purled; join at the end.
6th: Knitted; join at the end.
7th: X knit 2, slip 2, knit 1, X join at the end.
8th: X purl 1, slip 2, knit 2, X join as before.
9th: Like 7th.
10th: Like 8th.
11th: Purled.
12th: Knitted.
13th: X knit 1, slip 2, knit 2, X join at the end.
14th: X purl 2, slip 2, knit 1, X join.
15th: Like 13th.
16th: Like 14th.
17th: Purled, with join at the end.
18th: Knitted. The same. Repeat these 18 rows.
Take up the remaining stitches of the 70, and form the whole into a
round for the ankle. Purl four rounds.
5th round: X knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, X all round. Purl 6 more
rounds, and cast off.
FOR THE TASSELS.--Plait some wool into a cord, and fasten at each end
a tassel of white and pink wool combed out.
FOR THE RUCHE.--Cast on five stitches with the coarser needles, and
the white embroidery wool. Knit and purl the rows alternately, winding
the wool six times round two fingers of the left hand at every stitch,
and taking up those threads with the stitches. Do about ten rows so;
then for ten more wind the wool only for the first and last stitches,
and the pink for the others of each row. Do enough to go twice round
the top of each boot. Cut the loops, and comb out the wool. Sew it
round the top of the boot.
* * * * *
THE TULIP WREATH FLOWER-VASE MAT.
MATERIALS.--12 shades of amber, 7 shades of lilac, 4 shades of green.
4 Skeins of each colour. 5 Steel Needles, No. 14. Cardboard
foundation, covered with white or amber cambric, 8 inches in diameter.
FOR THE MAT.--Knit 4 rounds of each shade of amber, beginning with the
lightest. Cast on 2 stitches on each of 4 needles; bring the wool
forward, knit half the stitches on the first needle; t. f. and k.
[Footnote: K. means knit; k. 2+ knit two together; p. purl; t. f.
thread forward.] the other half; repeat the same on each of the
other 3 needles; k. the next round plain; repeat these two rounds
until there are 48 stitches on each needle; then cast off, and sew
this on the covered cardboard foundation.
FOR THE TULIPS.--5 tulips to be knitted in 7 shades of amber, and 5 in
7 shades of lilac; 4 rounds to be knitted of each shade; 4
needles. Cast on 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; t.f. at the
commencement of each needle; k. 1 plain round; purl a round,
increasing at commencement of each needle. Repeat these two rounds
till there are 22 stitches on each of the three needles; then first k.
3, k. 2+, k. 1, k. 2+, k. 3; turn the work back, and purl the
stitches.
[Illustration: THE TULIP WREATH FLOWER-VASE MAT.]
3rd: K. 2, k. 2+, k. 1, k. 2+, k. 2.
4th: Turn back and purl.
5th: K. 2, k. 2+, k. 1, k. 2+, k 2.
6th: Turn back and purl.
7th: K. 1, k. 3+, k. 1.
8th: Purl.
9th: K. 3+.
20 tulips will be required.
THE LEAVES (10 of which will be necessary).--4 shades of green, 12
rows of each; 2 needles.
Cast on 3 stitches; k. plain, till before the centre stitch; t.f. and
k. the centre stitch; t.f., k. the remainder plain; p. the next row;
repeat these 2 rows, till there are 12 open stitches up the vein of
the leaf; then k. 1, k. 2+, k. plain, till 2 from the centre stitch;
then k. 2+, t.f., k. 1, t.f., k. 2+, k. plain, till 3 from the end;
then k. 2+, k. 1; p. the next row; repeat till there are 8 more open
stitches, that is, 20 from the beginning; then k. 2+ at the beginning
and end of every other row, till the last ends in a point. Now sew the
leaves round the mat by the part where the stem should be; then sew
the tulips on as in engraving, sewing the leaf about 6 rows from the
point on the stem of the tulip.
* * * * *
[Illustration: A WOVEN PARASOL.]
* * * * *
CROCHET.
* * * * *
The stitches used in crochet are, _chain, slip, single, double,
treble, and long treble crochet_.
TO MAKE A CHAIN, form a loop on the thread, insert the hook in it, and
draw the thread in another loop through this. Continue this to form a
succession of stitches.
SLIP-STITCH is made by drawing a thread _at once_ through any given
stitch and the loop which is on the needle.
SINGLE CROCHET (written s.c.)--Having a loop on the needle, insert the
hook in a stitch, and draw the thread through in a loop. You then have
two on the hook; draw the thread through both at once.
DOUBLE CROCHET (d.c.)--Twist the thread round the hook before
inserting it in the stitch, through which you draw the thread in a
loop. Three loops being then on the needle, draw the thread through
two, and then through the one just formed and the remaining one.
TREBLE CROCHET (t.c.) and LONG TREBLE (long t.c.) are worked in the
same manner; in the former the thread is put _twice_, in the latter
_three times_, round the hook, before inserting it into the stitch.
TO JOIN LEAVES.--When one part of a leaf, flower, etc., is to be
joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the
place to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working.
TO PASS FROM ONE ROUND TO ANOTHER WITHOUT BREAKING THE THREAD.--In
working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. Having
finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. stitch begins
the next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip
the needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. This
twisted chain will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. stitch.
Should the round not begin exactly in the same place, slip-stitch to
the part where it commences, as it will seldom be more than a few
stitches in advance.
SQUARE CROCHET is a term often used, and generally understood, as the
engraved patterns are mostly in it. Lest, however, any of our readers
should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. The squares
are either open or close. An open square consists of one d.c., two
ch.--missing two on the line beneath, before making the next stitch. A
close square has three successive d.c. Thus, any given number of close
squares, followed by an open, will have so many times three d.c., and
_one over_; and any foundation made for a pattern to be worked in
square crochet will have a number of chains divisible by three,
leaving one over.
TO CONTRACT AN EDGE.--In forming leaves and many other things, this is
very useful. It can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. Having twisted
the thread round the needle as often as the stitch may require, insert
it in the work, and half-do a stitch. Instead of completing it, again
twist the thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and
work a stitch completely. Thus, for two stitches taken in the work,
there is only one head. This being successively repeated materially
contracts an edge.
TO JOIN ON A THREAD.--Avoid joins in open work as much as possible. In
close work, whether d.c. or s.c., they will not be perceived. Finish
the stitch by drawing the new thread through, allowing a couple of
inches for both ends, which you hold in.
TO WORK WITH SEVERAL COLOURS.--Hold the threads not in use along the
edge of the work, and work them in. When the colour is to be changed,
begin the stitch with the old colour, and complete it with the new,
which continue to work with, holding the other in. If only one stitch
of a colour is to be used, you finish one stitch, and begin the next
with it; then change. Colours are seldom intermixed, except in solid
work, such as the ends of purses, mats worked over cord, and the like.
TO WORK OVER CORD.--Hold it in the left hand, with the work, and work
round it, as you would if it were merely an end of thread. The
stitches must, however, be sufficiently close to cover it entirely.
TO WORK WITH BEADS.--Beads must be first threaded on the silk, or
other material, and then dropped, according to the pattern, on what is
usually thought the wrong side of the work. This side presents a more
even appearance than the other. It follows that when bead purses are
worked from an engraving, they are worked the reverse of the usual
way--namely, from right to left.
THE MARKS USED IN CROCHET RECEIPTS.--These are very simple when
understood. They are printers' marks--asterisks, crosses, daggers, and
sometimes one or two others. They are used to mark repetitions, and
save space. The principal thing to observe is, that in every row or
round, if _one_ of any kind is used, a second, _similar_ one, is sure
to be found; and that the repetition occurs between the two, however
far distant apart. Suppose a row of a pattern to be written thus:--X 2
d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, * 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, * three times, 5 d.c.,
X, * twice; it would, at full length, be--2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5
d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5
d.c., 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch.,
miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c. It will be seen that one
repetition often occurs _within another_, as in the stitches between
the asterisks. Another mode of shortening receipts can be used only
where a row has a centre both sides of which correspond; the latter
being the same as the former, worked _backwards_. Then the letters _b,
a_, are used, to mark that in the latter part of the row you reverse
the instructions. _b_, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1,
_a_, 1 d.c. (the centre stitch), would be, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1
d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., miss 1, 2 ch., 1 d.c., miss 2, 3 ch., 7
d.c. These letters and the printers' marks are equally used in
knitting. It is easy to see how much space is gained by the use of
these abbreviations, a knowledge of which is easily acquired. Probably
many of our friends are already familiar with the substance of this
preliminary lesson; but as daily experience convinces us that many are
still ignorant of the principles of crochet, we trust the good-nature
of the adepts will lead them to excuse this occupation of a page, in
consideration of the benefit it will be to their less fortunate
friends.
One word on the implement termed a crochet-hook. It should not be
sharp or pointed, either in the point or barb, but smooth, and quite
free from any angularity that can catch the silk. Cheap and common
crochet-hooks are in the end the dearest, as they break cotton, ravel
silk, wear out the patience, and prick the finger. They should be of
the best steel, highly polished, and firmly fixed in ivory handles.
Those we use have been made at our recommendation, and have the _size_
engraved on every handle. This saves the tiresome and uncertain
reference to a gauge. These hooks are termed "_tapered, indented_"
crochet-hooks.
* * * * *
ANTI-MACASSAR.
MATERIALS.--Four reels of Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize
Goat's-head Crochet Cotton, No. 8, 1 ditto, No. 4, 4 ounces of
turquoise blue beads.
The anti-macassar of which we give a representation in the engraving
is intended to fit the top of a library chair. One half only is seen.
A similar piece of crochet is to be made and sewed to it, the
two forming a sort of bag, which is slipped over the back of the
chair. It is a great improvement on the old-fashioned anti-macassar,
as it is not liable to be displaced. A border is added to the front of
it, the pattern of which is made in beads (in the style of the
bassinet quilt, page 24). This, from its weight, serves to keep the
anti-macassar from shifting, and is finished with a handsome fringe.
Spotted muslin, or any similar material, may be used for the back of
the anti-macassar, instead of crochet, for those who would prefer
saving themselves the trouble of working the second piece.
[Illustration: ANTI-MACASSAR.]
The upper part may be worked from the engraving, being done in square
crochet, for which we have already given full directions. Make a chain
of 277 stitches. Do one row of double crochet; then work from
the engraving, beginning with that row which is in open square
crochet, except the first and last squares, which are close. When you
come to the diminished part, begin the row thus:--Miss 1, slip on the
2nd, single crochet on the 3rd, double crochet on the 4th. Reverse the
process at the end of the row. This diminishes the row one square at
each end. Some few rows narrow the squares at each end. In that case
miss 4 at the beginning and end, instead of one. Work in the ends as
you go on. This part of the anti-macassar uses three reels of cotton.
Thread the blue beads on the 4th, No. 8 reel, and work the borders.
Begin by a row of single crochet on the _wrong_ side, on the
foundation chain. All the subsequent rows are done on the same side.
Begin every row with two plain stitches, beside those in the pattern.
1st pattern row: X 2 plain, 2 beads, 5 plain, 2 beads, 14 plain X
repeat to the end in this and every future row.
2nd: X 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, 14 plain
X.
3rd: X 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 3 beads, 15 plain X.
4th: X 2 plain, 7 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 14 plain X.
5th: X 4 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 13 plain X.
6th: X 4 plain, 4 beads, 4 plain, 1 bead, 12 plain X.
7th: X 3 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 5 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain X.
8th: X 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 6 plain, 5
beads, 1 plain X.
9th: X 1 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 7 plain, 5
beads X.
10th: X 1 plain, 2 beads, 6 plain, 3 beads, 8 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain
X.
11th: X 10 plain, 3 beads, 7 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain
X.
12th: X 9 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain,
1 bead, 2 plain X.
13th: X 8 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 2
beads, 2 plain X.
14th: X 8 plain, 1 bead, 4 plain, 3 beads, 5 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain,
X.
15th: X 8 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 3
beads, 2 plain X.
16th: X 9 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain
X.
17th: X 16 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, X.
18th: X 6 plain, 1 bead, 10 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain X.
19th: X 6 plain, 3 beads, 8 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain X.
20th: X 6 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, 7 beads, 3 plain X.
21st: X 6 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 10 beads, 2 plain X.
* * * * *
ANTI-MACASSAR.
MATERIALS.--Brooks' Great Exhibition Prize Goat's-head Crochet Cotton,
No. 24.
This anti-macassar must be begun on the line of d.c., forming one end.
Make a chain of the required number of stitches, including the
borders, and work the whole anti-macassar, except the border which is
at the one end, below the foundation chain, which must be done last of
all. Or the centre can be done entirely first, and the border worked
all round afterwards, increasing at the corners. We, however,
recommend the former method.
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