Various - The Bay State Monthly, Volume 3, No. 3
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Various >> The Bay State Monthly, Volume 3, No. 3
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In the afternoon the party visited some of the burying-grounds of the
town, six of which were now in use. The sight of so many unnamed graves
in the Friends' cemetery, at the head of Main street, saddened Miss Ray;
and she was glad to see the neat little slabs which of late years had
marked the graves of their departed ones. They strolled around the
Prospect Hill, or Unitarian Cemetery, near by, and wished to go into the
Catholic one on the same street; but, as Mrs. Gordon was anxious to see
some of the old headstones and epitaphs in the North burying-ground on
North Liberty street, and their time was limited, they went there
instead. When Tom saw her delight as she read on the old stones the date
of 1770, 1772, and some even earlier, he said that she must go out to
the ancient burial-ground on the hill near the water-works and see the
grave of John Gardner, Esq., who was buried there in 1706. As he said
this one of the public carriages happened to be within sight, and she
proposed that they take it and go immediately to that sacred spot. When
they arrived there her historic imagination knew no bounds; her
soliloquy partook of the sentiment--in kind only, not in degree--which
inspired Mark Twain when he wept over the grave of Adam. In the mean
while, Mr. Gordon had gone to the Wannacomet Waterworks, which supplied
the town with pure water from the old Washing-pond. He there noted in
his note-book that this important movement in the town's welfare was
another reason why investment in the island would be desirable.
As they started to go back to town from the burial-ground Tom wished
that they could drive to the south-west suburbs, to see the South and
also the colored burying-grounds, for he should feel better satisfied if
he could sec everything of a kind that there was! But Mrs. Gordon had
seen enough for one day, and so they drove to their boarding-house
instead.
The ringing of the sweet-toned church bell the next morning at seven
o'clock reminded Miss Ray of her desire to visit the tower which
contained it. She had noticed how it rang out three times during the
day, at seven, twelve, and nine o'clock, and, for the quiet Nantucket
town, she hoped that the old custom would never be dropped. And then
this bell had a peculiar attraction for her, for it was like the one
which was on her own church in Boston, the New Old South. She had been
greatly interested in reading that this "Old Spanish Bell," as it was
called, was brought from Lisbon in 1812; that it was stored in a cellar
for three years, when it was bought by subscription for about five
hundred dollars, and put in this tower. She had read, further, in
Godfrey's guide-book, that "some little time after the bell had been in
use, the sound of its mellow tones had reached the Hub; and so
bewitching were the musical vibrations of this queenly bell (e) of
Nantucket to many of the good people of the renowned 'City of Notions,'
that the agents of the Old South Church negotiated with the agents of
the Unitarian Church, saying that they had a very fine clock in their
tower; that they had been so unfortunate as to have their bell broken,
and wished to know at what price this bell could be procured. The agents
of the Unitarian Church replied that they had a very fine bell in their
tower, and would like to know at what price the Old South Society would
sell their clock. The bell weighs one thousand five hundred and
seventy-five pounds; the Boston gentlemen offered one dollar a pound for
it, and upon finding they could not get it at any price, they asked
where it came from; and having ascertained its history, sent to Lisbon
to the same foundry and procured that which they now have." And she had
been told further that this same bell had been removed to the new church
on the Back Bay. With all this pleasant association with the bell of her
own church, of course she must pay it a visit. So at about nine o'clock,
after Mr. Gordon and Tom had gone off with two gentlemen for a day's
blue-fishing, she, with Mrs. Gordon and Bessie, started out for their
morning's sight-seeing. In a half hour's time they had climbed the
stairs to the tower, and were admiring the fine new clock,--a gift from
one of Nantucket's sons, now living in New York,--which had been first
set in motion two years before, to replace an old one which had told the
time for over half a century. A little farther up they saw the famous
bell, and Miss Ray did wish that she could read Spanish so as to
translate the inscription which was upon it. A few steps more brought
them into the dome itself. Here, then, was the place where "Billy" came
to sight the steamers; and here was where a watchman stayed every night
to watch for fires. Whenever he saw one, Bessie said his duty was to
hang a lantern upon a hook in the direction of the fire and give the
alarm. She said that this had been the custom for years. As they were
all enjoying this finest view which the island affords, Bessie spied the
Old Mill in the distance, and as she had that painted on a shell as a
souvenir of her Nantucket trip she must surely visit it. So they were
soon wending their way up Orange street, through Lyons to Pleasant, and
then up South Mill to the Old Mill itself. On paying five cents apiece,
they were privileged to go to the top and look through the spy-glass,
and also see the miller grind some corn. This old windmill, built in
1746, with its old oaken beams still strong and sound, situated on a
hill by itself, was to Bessie the most picturesque thing that she had
seen. She associated this with the oldest house on the island, built in
1686, facing the south, which she had seen the day before.
In the afternoon they continued their sight-seeing by visiting the
Athenaeum on Federal street. They found it to be a large white building
with pillars in front, on the lower floor of which Miss Ray was
particularly pleased to see such a good library of six thousand volumes,
and a reading-room with the leading English and American periodicals,
the use of which she learned was to be gained by the payment of a small
sum. Bessie was attracted to the oil-painting on the wall of Abraham
Quary, who was the last of the Indian race on the island. Then they
examined, in an adjoining room, the curiosities gathered together for
public inspection. Here they found the model of the "Camels," and also
the jaw of a sperm whale, seventeen feet long, with forty-six teeth and
a weight of eight hundred pounds. Bessie said that the whale from which
it was taken was eighty-seven feet long and weighed two hundred tons.
When Mrs. Gordon learned that this very whale was taken in the Pacific
Ocean and brought to the Island by a Nantucket Captain, she became as
much interested in it as in the "Camels," for surely it had an
historical interest. After an hour spent in this entertaining manner,
they returned to their boarding-place in time to greet the gentlemen who
had come back with glowing accounts of their day's work, or rather
pleasure, for they had met with splendid success. Tom's fingers were
blistered, but what was that compared to the fun of blue-fishing!
What particularly interested the ladies was a "Portuguese man of war"
which one of the gentlemen had caught in a pail and brought home alive.
This beautiful specimen of a fish, seen only at Nantucket, their hostess
said, and seldom caught alive, was admired by all, who, indeed, were
mostly ignorant of the habits or even the existence of such a creature.
Bessie wondered how such a lovely iridescent thing could be poison to
the touch. Tom promised to study up about it when he should begin his
winter studies, whereupon his mother said that if he would tell her what
he should learn about it she would write it out for the benefit of them
all.
The next morning they all started from the wharf at nine o'clock in the
miniature steamer, "Island Belle," for Wauwinet, a place seven miles
from the town. Miss Ray had become interested in the pretty Indian names
which she had heard, and was struck with this, which she learned was the
name of an old Indian chief who once controlled a large eastern part of
the island. In an hour they landed on the beach at Wauwinet. They found
it decorated with its rows of scallop-shells, some of which they
gathered as they walked along. Some of the party made use of this
still-water bathing, while others ran across the island, some three
hundred yards, to enjoy the surf-bathing there. Tom was delighted with
this novelty of two beaches, separated by such a narrow strip of land,
that he was continually going back and forth to try the water in both
places. He only wished that he could go up a little farther where he had
been told the land was only one hundred yards wide,--the narrowest part
of the island. After a shore dinner at the Wauwinet House, and another
stroll on the beaches, they started for the town on the yacht "Lilian,"
which twice a day went back and forth. The wind was unfavorable, so they
were obliged to go fourteen miles instead of seven, thus using two hours
instead of one for the sail. On their way they passed the places known
as Polpis, Quidnet, and Coatue. Mr. Gordon was so much impressed with
the advantages of Coatue that he noted the fact in his note-book; while
his wife became so much interested in the nautical expressions used that
she declared that she should get Bowditch's "Navigation," and see if she
could find those terms in it; she must know more of navigation than she
did. As they landed at the wharf they heard "Billy" Clarke crying out
that the New Bedford band would give a grand concert at Surf Side the
next day. Now, as this kind of music had been the chief thing which they
had missed among the pleasures of Nantucket, of course they must go and
hear it. So the next afternoon, at two o'clock, they were on the cars of
the narrow-gauge railroad, bound for the Surf-Side Hotel, which they
reached in fifteen minutes, passing on the way a station of the
life-saving service department. They spent an hour or two seated on the
bluff overlooking the grand surf-beach, and enjoying the strains of
music as they came from the hotel behind them. It must be confessed that
Mr. Gordon was so interested in noting the characteristics of this part
of the island with an eye to business, that he did not lose himself
either in the music of the band or the ocean. On his way back to town,
when he expressed his desire to build a cottage for himself on that very
spot, Surf Side, Mrs. Gordon would not assent to any such proposition;
for she had settled in her own mind that there was no place like Brant
Point, where she and Bessie had been that forenoon; for did not the
keeper of the light-house there tell her, when she was at the top of it,
that on that spot was built the first light-house in the United States,
in 1746? That was enough for her, surely. The matter was still under
discussion when Miss Ray told them to wait until they had visited
'Sconset before they should decide the question. As for her she could
scarcely wait for the next morning to come when they should go there.
And when it did come it found her, at half-past eight o'clock,
decorating with pond-lilies, in honor of the occasion, the comfortable
excursion-wagon, capable of holding their party of eight besides the
driver. By nine o'clock they were driving up Orange street by the
Sherburne and Bay View Houses, on their way to Siasconset, or, 'Sconset,
as it is familiarly called.
As they passed a large white building known as the Poor Farm, Tom was
surprised that a town noted for its thrift and temperance should be
obliged to have such an institution. Bessie was glad to learn that they
were going over the old road instead of the new one, while Miss Ray
would rather have gone over the new one, so as to have seen the
milestones which Dr. Ewer, of New York, had put up by the wayside. They
met the well-known Captain Baxter, in his quaint conveyance, making his
daily trip to the town from 'Sconset. As they rode for miles over the
grassy moors with no trees or houses in sight, none of them could
believe that the island had once been mostly covered with beautiful oak
trees. Soon the village, with its quaint little houses built close
together on the narrow streets, which wound around In any direction to
find the town-pump, its queer, one-story school-house, its post-office,
guarded by the gayly-colored "Goddess of Liberty," was before, or rather
all around them. They had all enjoyed their ride of seven and a half
miles; and now, on alighting from the carriage, the party separated in
different directions. Miss Ray insisted upon bathing in the surf-beach
here in spite of its coarse sand and rope limitations, since it was the
farthest out in the Atlantic Ocean. Her experience with the strong
undertow in its effects upon herself and upon those who watched her is
one, which, as no words can portray it, Tom has decided to draw out for
some future Puck; for he thinks that it is too good to be lost to the
public.
Mrs. Gordon and Bessie walked among the houses, noticing the peculiar
names which adorned some of them, and, indeed, going inside one of the
oldest where a step-ladder was used for the boys of the household to get
up into their little room. They crossed the bridge which led them to the
Sunset Heights where some new houses, in keeping with the style of the
old ones, were being built. They were pleased to see this unity of
design, rather than the modern cottage which had intruded itself upon
that coast. In their walk they learned that about eleven or twelve
families spent the winter at 'Sconset. The air was intensely
invigorating, so much so that Mrs. Gordon, who was no walker at home,
was surprised at herself with what she was doing without fatigue. Later
they found Mr. Gordon looking at the new church which had just been
completed, and which he had ascertained was built for no sectarian
purpose, but for the preaching of the truth. They all met at noon for
their lunch, after which they went a mile and a half farther to visit
the Sankaty Head light-house, the best one of the five on the island.
The keeper kindly escorted them up the fifty-six steps to the top, where
they learned that the point of the light was one hundred and sixty-five
feet above the level of the sea. He gave them some more facts relative
to the light, interspersed with personal experiences. Tom said that he
should remember particularly the fact that he told him that this
light-house would be the first one that he should see whenever he should
come home from a European trip.
Two hours later they were relating their pleasant experiences in the
dining-room of their boarding-house, while enjoying the delicious
blue-fish which gratified their hunger. As for Miss Ray her
anticipations had been realized; and that night she wrote to a certain
young man in Boston that she knew of no place in America where they
could be more by themselves and away from the world, when their happy
time should come in the following summer, than at 'Sconset.
The next afternoon found them all listening to Mrs. McCleave, as she
faithfully exhibited the many interesting curiosities of her museum, in
her home on Main street. Mrs. Gordon was very much interested in the
Cedar Vase, so rich with its "pleasant associations," while Bessie was
delighted with the beautiful carved ivory, with its romantic story as
told by its owner. Miss Ray considered Mrs. McCleave, with her
benevolent face, her good ancestry, and her eager desire to learn and
impart, a good specimen of the well-preserved Nantucket woman.
Through the courtesy of their hostess they were privileged, on their way
back, to visit the house of Miss Coleman, on Centre street, there to
see the wonderful wax figure of a baby six months old, said to be the
likeness of the Dauphin of France, the unfortunate son of Louis XVI.
When Mrs. Gordon learned that this was brought to Nantucket in 1786, by
one of her own sea-captains, she became very much excited over it. As
she realized then that her knowledge of French history was too meagre to
fully understand its historical import, although she appreciated its
artistic value, she determined that another winter should be partially
devoted to that study. So she added "French history" to "Camels,"
"Light-houses," "Navigation," and "Indians," which were already in her
note-book. She had added "Indians" the day before when her interest in
them had been quickened by some accounts of the civilization of the
early Indians in Nantucket, which seemed to her almost unprecedented
in American history. After supper Mr. and Mrs. Gordon went out in a
row-boat to enjoy the moonlight evening, Tom went to the skating-rink,
Miss Ray spent the evening with some friends at the Ocean House near by,
while Bessie went out for a moonlight sail with some friends from a
western city, whom, she said, she had "discovered, not made." Her
appreciation of a fine rendering of her favorite Raff Cavatina by a
talented young gentleman of the party, soon after her arrival, had been
the means of bringing together these two souls on the musical heights,
which afterwards had led to an introduction to the other members of the
party, all of whom she had enjoyed during the week that had passed. And
now, with these newly-found friends, on this perfect July evening, with
its full moon and fresh south-westerly breeze, in the new yacht
"Lucile," she found perfect enjoyment. Pleasant stories were related,
and one fish-story was allowed, to give spice to the occasion. After a
little more than two hours' sail they found themselves returning to the
Nantucket town, which, in the moonlight, presented a pretty appearance.
The next day, Saturday, Mr. Gordon and Tom started early to sail around
the island, with an intention of landing on the adjoining island,
Tuckernuck. Tom had calculated that it would be quite a sail, for he
knew that Nantucket Island was fourteen miles long, and averaged four
miles in width; and his father had decided that such a trip would give
him a better idea of the island's best points for building purposes. On
their return at night they found that the ladies had spent a pleasant
day, bathing, riding, and visiting some Boston friends who were stopping
at the Springfield House, a short distance from them. Bessie had found
more pleasure in the company of the young musician and his friends,
having attended one of the morning _musicales_ which they were
accustomed to have by themselves In the hall of the Athenaeum. Tom and
his father had much to tell of their day's pleasure.
Mr. Gordon, for once in his life, felt the longing which he knew had so
often possessed his wife, to go back and live in the years gone by; for
if he could now transfer himself to the year 1659, he might buy this
whole island of Thomas Mayhew for thirty pounds and two beaver hats.
What a lost opportunity for a good business investment! As it was,
however, some valuable notes were added to his note-book, suggested by
the trip, which time alone will give to the world. He was more and more
convinced that the future well-being of Nantucket was more in the hands
of real-estate brokers and summer pleasure-seekers, than in those of the
manufacturers, agriculturists, or even the fishing men as of old. He
could see no other future for her, and he should work accordingly. His
chief regret was that the island was so barren of trees.
They spent the next day, Sunday, in attending church, as they had
planned, and in pleasant conversation and rest preparatory to their
departure for Boston on the following morning. They expressed gratitude
that they had not been prevented by sickness or by one rainy day from
carrying out all the plans which had been laid for the ten days. Mrs.
Gordon very much regretted that they had not seen the famous Folger
clock which was to be seen at the house of a descendant of Walter
Folger, the maker of it. She should certainly see it the first thing,
if she ever were in Nantucket again; for she considered the man, who,
unaided, could make such a clock, the greatest mechanical genius that
ever lived. She felt this still more when she was told that the clock
could not be mended until there could be found a mechanic who was also
an astronomer.
At seven o'clock the next morning they were all on board the steamer, as
she left the old town of Nantucket in the distance. Mrs. Gordon looked
longingly back at Brant Point, which she still felt was the best spot on
the island; while Bessie eagerly watched for the little flag which a
certain young gentleman was yet waving from the wharf.
At half-past one they were in Boston, and an hour later at their
suburban home, all delighted with their short stay in Nantucket. They
felt that they had seen about all that there was to be seen there, and
they were glad to have visited the island before it should be clothed
with more modern garments.
[Footnote 2: Copyright 1885, by Elizabeth Porter Gould.]
* * * * *
A BIRTHDAY SONNET.
By George W. Bungay.
Our days are like swift shuttles in the loom,
In which time weaves the warp and woof of fate;
Its varied threads that interpenetrate
The pattern woven, picture bride and groom,
A life-like scene in their own happy home.
There are some frayed and shaded strands, fair Kate,
But lines of purest gold illuminate
Our wedded lot, as stars the heavenly dome,
And come what may, sunshine or chilling rain,
Prosperity and peace or woe instead,
Untruth and selfishness shall never stain
The web of love and hope illustrated.
Not even death unravels when we die,
The woven work approved of God on high.
* * * * *
ELIZABETH.[3]
A ROMANCE OF COLONIAL DAYS.
By Frances C. Sparhawk, Author of "A Lazy Man's Work."
CHAPTER XX.
GREEK MEETS GREEK.
It was two weeks after the scene at Colonel Archdale's dinner-party.
There was quite a knot of people in Madam Pepperell's drawing-room. All
the household at Seascape had come on the way home from a drive to pay a
morning visit here, and found the in-door coolness refreshing. Colonel
Archdale, who had joined his son, was there also. Mr. Royal, as it
happened, was in Portsmouth that morning.
Edmonson had been exemplary enough in avoiding the cant of pretended
regret for what must have given him pleasure. Archdale had no complaints
to make on that score, but he distrusted Edmonson more and more, and
perceived more clearly that he was attracted by Elizabeth. He wondered
if she encouraged him: that was not like the person she seemed to be;
yet why not? She had assured Archdale more than once that she was free,
and her certainty had given him comfort. But he was here this morning
for another purpose than to weigh the question of Miss Royal's fancy. If
she did encourage Edmonson she was all the more inexplicable.
Stephen bent over Lady Dacre's chair, talking gayly to her; yet his eyes
wandered every now and then, and, gradually, after he had stopped
several times beside one and another, he came up to Elizabeth, as she
was sitting listening to a young lady who, with her brother, had come
back from town with Madam Pepperell, the night before, to spend a few
days at the house.
As Stephen stood behind her chair he looked across the room, and saw
Edmonson leaning with folded arms against a window. The light fell over
his face; he had been looking at Elizabeth, but his eyes met Archdale's
at once with an expression meant for cool scrutiny and a dash of
insolent triumph at the victory he had scored. Edmonson's fierceness was
not easily fettered; the dark shadow in his heart darted over his face,
and, withdrawing as hastily, left to view a light that blazed in his
eyes and only slowly died down into the cordial warmth necessary between
guest and host, even under peculiar circumstances. Stephen's face
darkened also, but his feeling was less, and his control greater.
Elizabeth was listening quietly to some account of a merry-making at
which Katie must have been present, for her name occurred frequently in
the narrative. As she perceived that Archdale was behind her she looked
round at him a moment, and by a few words included him in the
conversation. She was as entertaining as usual and rather more talkative
after he came. Yet he thought that under her ease of manner he detected
a current of nervousness that made him the more anxious to carry out the
purpose with which he had come to her.
But it was not easy to find any excuse for withdrawing her from the
circle in which she had made herself so welcome. At last, however, under
cover of a general movement, which he had secretly instigated, he
succeeded in getting her into the library, on the plea of a message to
her father. When there, he closed the door behind him, and said:--
"I have a message to your father, it is true, Mistress Royal, but it is
only to beg him to interfere."
"Interfere?" she echoed with a nervousness that this time was
unmistakable.
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