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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making




The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The bait
should be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built on
a larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to the
capture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game.


THE BOARD-FLAP.

[Illustration]

[Page 131]
For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance,
and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals.
Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and secure
them together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming one
as the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inches
from the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, and
should be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_),
thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath this
aperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made.
A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required.
This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of the
lower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily through
a gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is very
important, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stick
should be not more than three inches in length, supplied with a
notch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board by
the aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing.
The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light piece
of pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edge
at each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge of
the upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wire
passes. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears when
set. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. One
end of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack,
and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supports
the suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held in
equilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys this
equilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. The
object of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording a
receptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwise
it would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fall
of the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape.

It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefully
tested before being finally set.


THE BOX PIT-FALL.

We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its construction
from any previously described. It secures its victims alive, and
without harm, and, when well made, is very successful.
[Page 132]
It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like,
and on a large scale for muskrats and mink.

[Illustration]

The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section in
our illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. For
ordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inches
square, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consisting
of a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be just
large enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of the
box without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin,
and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of the
same material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop,
as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should be
only large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratch
should now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on the
centre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should be
fastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_),
this being for the balance weight. The
[Page 133]
latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like,
and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, and
secured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity.
Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustration
fully explains itself.

[Illustration]

After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured in
its place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplish
this and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven through
the side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To do
this nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and it
should be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedom
and ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise after
a few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not too
heavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on its
balance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely.
The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platform
to its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulated
by experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of the
platform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumping
after the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly finds
himself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossible
for him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this,
the interior of the box may be lined with tin.

By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side of
the tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way,
two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskrats
are frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried in
the ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In this
case it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in the
box, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than the
one we have described.

[Page 134]
For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground or
placed near some neighboring object which will afford easy access
to it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap of
this kind in a single night.


CAGE TRAP.

[Illustration]

The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and for
the capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficacious
devices in existence. The construction of one of these traps is
quite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advising
our inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in the
manufacture of an article which can be bought for such a small
price, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were a
device for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then be
well worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time and
labor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercise
their skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while our
pages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples.

For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn of
mind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide.
The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is
[Page 135]
strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only access
to it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at the
bottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is an
easy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible,
as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent.
It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape through
this opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems to
be absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rush
frantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in their
wild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by which
they entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the open
grating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victims
are thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rush
to the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit.

If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening at
the top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted by
the light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where their
endeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires.
Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simple
trap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We will
call it


THE JAR TRAP.

In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted.
A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of a
funnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap,
and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the following
morning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successive
night for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff piece
of tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for the
funnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer.


BOWL TRAPS.

Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes by
the use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed.
One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknife
is used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end of
the blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing the
bait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odor
of cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds
[Page 136]
his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibble
is sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner.

In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. The
cheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimble
inserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length to
project outward.

The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reach
the bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble is
dislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a small
thimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboard
or flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to afford
an easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said to
work excellently.


FLY PAPER.

A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molasses
one part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found to
attract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon its
surface.

Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseed
oil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following stands
unrivalled.


FLY TRAP.

Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circle
of stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass.
In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter,
or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass.
Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in the
tumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surround
it, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Once
below the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time the
molasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb the
molasses.

In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselves
in the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbler
is soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number of
the traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon ridden
of the pests.




[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.]




[Page 137]
BOOK VI.

STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING.

[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated list
of extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, we
will now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-known
implement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varieties
often serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal device
used by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages over
all other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either on
land or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures its
victims without injury to their fur, and by the application of the
spring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectually
prevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besides
placing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals.

The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largely
by the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlier
pages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_
of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. The
experience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertion
that for practical utility, from every point of view, the steel
trap stands unrivalled.

These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the capture
of the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to the
grizzly, and known as the "bear tamer."

They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a large
portion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They should
be selected with care, and the springs always tested
[Page 138]
before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are also
other necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin in
order that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weapons
judiciously.

[Illustration]


REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP.

1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In the
cheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinness
of sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often sever
the leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At other
times the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal to
gnaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with many
animals.

2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common fault
with many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where the
pan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directly
in the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly secured
far up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly filling
the space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by a
touch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely to
get slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogether
by the forcible snap of the jaw.

3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, and
proportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring will
always remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losing
its elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in a
spring badly formed or clumsily tapered.

4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the spring
a proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open,
and should always work easily on their hinges.

5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring and
swivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily.

The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites,
and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to no
other in this or any other country.

They are made in eight sizes, as follows:

[Illustration: No. 0.]

This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has a
single spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches when
set.

[Page 139]
[Illustration]

[Page 141]
[Illustration: No. 1.]

This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread four
inches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten,
and animals of similar size.

[Illustration: No. 2.]

This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spread
nearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher.

[Illustration: No. 2-1/2.]

This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is the
same as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs,
and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough for
the otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox and
fisher.

[Illustration: No. 3.]

No.3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five and
a half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent service
in the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, and
animals of like size.

[Illustration: No. 4.]

Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches.
This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. It
may also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expressly
for this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinary
jaws, when desired.

[Page 142]
[Illustration: No. 6.]

This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER," and is a most formidable
weapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machine
is forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of the
moose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steel
trap made in this or any other country. The springs possess most
tremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weight
of an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. This
lever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stout
straps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried by
the trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. To
adjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long.
Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side,
with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap between
them, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity of
the lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, after
which the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a second
strap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way,
after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. The
removal of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which
[Page 143]
the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by such
treatment.

[Illustration: No. 5.]

The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot,
and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in the
capture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size.

All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains.


HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP.

[Illustration]

There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateur
sportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;
viz., that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. This
was the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no modern
trap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeat
its object in such a case, wherein it will be easily
[Page 144]
seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisition
of furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise,
from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of course
catch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would be more
or less injured at the very spot where it should be particularly
free from blemish.

The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animal
by the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it is
totally valueless.

We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap on
the pan_.

The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order to
insure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as that
the attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap;
the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to
_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement.

There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate.

A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed.
The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to the
end stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the picture
on our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on a
stick above the trap. There are various other methods on the same
principle, which will be described hereafter, under the titles of
the various game.


THE SPRING POLE.

[Illustration]

This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, in
the capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts the
creature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey to
other animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victim
by the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode of
release with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, and
muskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as many
other animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities.
It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole inserted
in the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and the
trap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driven
into the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thus
held in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its struggles
release the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk,
[Page 145]
lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reach
of marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation.
Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves to
good purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violent
as to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the spring
pole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet,
often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trap
from being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of course
be proportionate to the weight of the desired game.


THE SLIDING POLE.

[Illustration]

The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught in
a trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smaller
animals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired by
the trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficient
to drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otter
for instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "sliding
pole," is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long,
smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where a
few stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bed
of the stream, where the water is
[Page 146]
deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hooked
stick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain should
be large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole.
When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large end
of the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. The
animal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided by
the pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides down
to the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned.


THE CLOG.

A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to a
stake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caught
in a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legs
off, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this,
the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a size
proportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merely
sufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, without
positively checking its movements. This impediment is called the
"clog," and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain by
its larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and secured
in place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clear
idea of both clog and attachment.


[Page 147]
THE GRAPPLING IRON.

[Illustration]

This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead.
It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, and
is attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape is
shown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to the
victim, who endeavors to run away with it.


THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING.

The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the season
between the first of October and the beginning of May, as furs
of all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months of
the year. The reason for this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be
"_thick_" and "_full_," and as all our fur-bearing animals shed
their heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarily
follows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. As
the autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomes
thick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in their
prime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping.
[Page 148]
The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not in
their perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are
_sure_ to be in good condition at this time.


THE ART OF TRAPPING.

From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the art
of trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a means
of supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by others
for the purpose of merchandise or profit.

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