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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making




Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely
to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode of
construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous
readers, who aspire to a full taste of wild life.

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.

[Page 243]
[Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY.]

[Page 244]
It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten
feet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straight
logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required
will be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet in
length and the other ten. These should now be built up in the square
form, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over
each other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep as
to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first,
and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, and
we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height.
The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log
should form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanly
and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or
more, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from the
top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and
on the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed
to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, about
five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly
in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neat
receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in
after the ordinary manner.

The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the
hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across the
top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This
should of course be done on both sides of the hut, after which
they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in
length. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two,
and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of these
should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long
logs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two.
Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in
the exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavy
log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge
pole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp
axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or
the line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken
down in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. This
should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of
logs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method is
preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability,
but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more
easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly
[Page 245]
shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow
side up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through each
into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these
pieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These
pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the addition
of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the
roof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or no
leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass
or clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roof
is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They
should be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel with
the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to
secure them.

Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if
desired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by using
a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end
of the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should not
be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the
full extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:
It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the
gable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should be
about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of
stone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project inside
the hut.

The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner,
sufficiently high to overtop the gables.

Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging
of the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested across
the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock,
if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoing
is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building
a log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we consider
the _best_ way of all, and pass on to the


BARK SHANTY.

This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles
seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridge
pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should
be rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle of
forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered
with bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each
piece to overlap the one beneath
[Page 246]
after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in case
of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose,
and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the
weight of another series of poles rested against them. The sides
of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually
left open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds a
few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to
select some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of a
mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side
face the direction most sheltered.

If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides
and top, but this is not required where the fire is used.

This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section,
and certainly looks very comfortable.


TENTS.

Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran
trappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charm
in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which
the portable tents do not possess.

Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs,
and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, and
where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction
of a hut or shanty involves.

Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper
are the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent.

The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed
on one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicular
for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes
are fastened to the eaves.

The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with
ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridge
pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides
are held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the side
ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can
be lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.

The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the
bark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas,
having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three
slanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged.
This is clearly shown in our illustration.

[Page 247]
[Illustration]

We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents,
as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, can
be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture
of little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so useful
an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few
directions in regard to its manufacture. It should be made from
stout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece
be about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the
piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cut
at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render
the cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containing
a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of
handfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain
several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally,
after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not
only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends to
make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent
thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out,
without doing the slightest damage.

[Page 248]
The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and
is clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or four
in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the
angle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart,
and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should
now be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged
to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side through
loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts.
A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind or
a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and
comfortable.


BEDS AND BEDDING.

[Illustration]

Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling
himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we do
not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as
this, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be prepared
on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering
on the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind
we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procure
a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material
six and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannot
be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required
dimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched
[Page 249]
together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use
the expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as
large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag,
allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should
now be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas.
In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs
at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior
of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, moss
or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.

The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm
filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattress
combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by
the addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. If
the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving
them firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw the
bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If
by the weight of the body the forked props should tend to incline
towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by inserting
short poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kind
may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble.
It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full
width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be
deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports.
The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in order
to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air
by ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself to
sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes
should be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet for
each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made
by doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a
small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other
ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution
the unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bed
will be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should always
be carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannel
is a most excellent acquisition.

Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters
and camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They should
be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With
one of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes
off" and the warmth is continual instead
[Page 250]
of "intermittent," and even on the bare ground it is said to be
sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but
we can confidently recommend the suspended bed above described
as decidedly preferable.

There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light
fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded variety
of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They
are an established article of trade, and as the details of their
manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we
will leave them without further consideration. They can be had at
almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.


TENT CARPETING.

We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and
recommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desired
to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed,
by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted
with a soft, even covering of green.

Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from
the tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commence
at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs
with the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these with
another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen
as evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered.
The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by the
weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at
intervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portion
of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed
is complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportion
to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should
be thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh
green gives forth considerable dampness.

If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These
consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indian
rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and
comfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit.
There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof
qualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former.
Either will be found useful.

So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn
[Page 251]
his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany,"
he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in the
present chapter, besides other hints of great value in reference
to a trapping campaign.

[Illustration]




[Page 253]
[Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]




[Page 255]
BOOK VIII.

THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.

[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into the
wilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirsty
flies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summer
and early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These often
become a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more often
a source of positive bodily suffering.

Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season,
the preparations for the coming campaign, including the building
of shanties, transporting of traps, etc., are generally made at
this time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions of
the mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable.


INSECT OINTMENTS.

These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent of
pennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and a
single plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatly
check their attacks.

The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made by
straining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of pure
melted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. This
may be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and applied
as occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellent
ointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slight
wounds, will give great relief.

Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen,
although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture of
common tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this liniment
is considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also prevents
tanning, and is beneficial to the complexion.

[Page 256]
During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmed
with the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbial
for their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomes
every other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect.
Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insect
vampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated at
their indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonous
occupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drove
the creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, and
retired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completely
had his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, that
the rain poured through his tent as through a sieve.

We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes,
took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone,
clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of his
life-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives,
the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were a
feather.

One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondack
woods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief in
either.

The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive away
the mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonly
known as "the smudge," and is more fully described in another part
of this work.

The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is always
preferable to the insect bites.

Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands.
The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and the
painful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey,"
or "black-fly," as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about the
size of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often results
very seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is the
most everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogue
of human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for their
victim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered as
if with "hay seed." They stick where they first light, and commence
operations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless,
and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Their
bites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is most
intolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"
[Page 257]
and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacks
of both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no one
who values his life or good looks should venture on a woodland
excursion in the summer months without a supply of this latter
commodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquito
the blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction,
and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacks
of these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants.
It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum are
necessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper would
about as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle.
This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength of
constitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trapping
life, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home.
We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. It
is always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy,
in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such an
event. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. A
simple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepper
in a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than three
times the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose to
extend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discourage
the wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in the
life of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight over
a victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subject
the bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate they
often result in painful, obstinate sores.

[Illustration]

In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be provided
with a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are specially
made for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, covered
with mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on the
head.

[Page 258]
They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate.

A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especially
in open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets.
Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, and
gathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will close
snugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawn
above the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown.

The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of trade
in common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Our
engraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth,
and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at the
circumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to any
hat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of a
hot sun.

[Illustration: a]

The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, and
applied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_),
which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such a
brim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost any
sporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every sense
of the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket.

[Illustration: b]


[Page 259]
BOAT BUILDING.

Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers,
a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.

[Illustration]

The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps
the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is
that called the--

"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.

It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying
illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily
made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze,
and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw,
broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.

In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter,
perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed,
the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be
cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried
on the shoulders.

A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the
lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked.
Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed
almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.

For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet
in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on
one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom
of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in
the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.

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