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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making




[Page 260]
It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths.
In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight
line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The
gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from
each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log,
the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of
chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on
these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may
be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded
off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed,
the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the
curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve
should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little
nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave
off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern.
The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of
the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly
finished.

It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this
purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel.
The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp
tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the
wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel
or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half
in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes
of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness,
and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such
perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although
where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it
is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger
may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the
following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood
is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the
canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely
makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the
thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole
a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in
as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the
end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different
parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness,
[Page 261]
and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be
allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be
detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as
leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch
will remedy the difficulty.

The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired
shape, but the above is the usual type.

When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and
smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.

For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or
more unique than--


THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.

Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain
a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at
hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to
attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in
the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed
sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian
canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and
lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to
the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary
habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice,
can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength,
lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which
are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.

The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about
twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions,
to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen
or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders
of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable
of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.

[Illustration]

In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale,
or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar,
ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat.
For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve
feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They
should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs
then joined at the same place. The object of
[Page 262]
these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to
offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured
between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for
the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one
large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select
some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences.
Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut
in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which
it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes
happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single
piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this
is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out,
as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an
awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge
of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue
to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a
half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides
of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of
ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than
the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes
should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now
turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and
fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded
condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between
the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark
beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by
folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly
to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents
itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log
or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at
about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it
in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the
two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding
stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf
fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips
of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible,
but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends.
These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter
to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These
are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
[Page 263]
a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will
answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do
very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the
canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the
gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe
of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in
order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should
be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration
shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel
at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at
each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now
have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and
it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to
accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of
the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating
qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their
where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application
of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their
bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in
lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain
to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch
unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained
by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even
out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without
the aid of tar or pitch.

[Page 264]
For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the
above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are
equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages
of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would
possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood,
hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy
in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after
the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing
the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam
profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.


A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.

The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable
bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could
easily construct:--

Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness,
eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length,
which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards
should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of
the sides should be straight.

Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of
one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing the
forward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at
about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward,
leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_).
The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencing
at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and
continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The
board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the
outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after
which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the
first, so as to form an exact duplicate.

This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over
the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained.
Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both
boards.

[Illustration]

Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet
in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of
this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of
the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and
[Page 265]
nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece,
which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consists
of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and
hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It
should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about
eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be
about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a
line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from
the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one
inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will
exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_).

[Illustration]

The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be
drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with
large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength
of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem
should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two
feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the
boards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlapped
on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows,
at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing
boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve
of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the
seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel,
or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put
in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity,
acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in
number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other
one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top
of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve
corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed,
and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat,
their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides
of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in
[Page 266]
the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in
place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into
their ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile
to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom
of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in
order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace
board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau
is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely
in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder
be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of
attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places.
These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of
the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found
difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the
boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although
not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached
together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put
on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left
to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently
to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should
continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked
and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value
to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction
of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually
stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always
be applied hot.


[Page 267]
THE SCOW.

The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for
considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;
but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows
may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly
straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends,
and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary
flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases
a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much
more easily made.

We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats
used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations
no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable
requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found
sufficient for all ordinary purposes.

A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or
mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven
or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of
the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces,
firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so
formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found
very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple
pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer
the purpose very well.


SNOW-SHOES.

These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where
he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence
of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk
over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without
them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.

In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring
districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities
the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season,
and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the
velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice
that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art
is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes
[Page 268]
is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order
to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily
well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice.
There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land
you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each
other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret
of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn
it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in
taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the
stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather
far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions,
and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and
an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which
at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.

To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity,
and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They
are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give
a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration
gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist
of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into
the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips
of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more
or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes
to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may
be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water.
Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough
hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three
or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.

In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made,
the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were
interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair.
Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to,
may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration
represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary
cloth.

In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be
wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise
with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous
security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space
at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled
with the next work. It is well to run the first lines
[Page 269]
across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings
of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut.
This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the
style usually adopted by the Indian makers.

[Illustration]

There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which
is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored
at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed
with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are
inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching
the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross
piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first
adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the
foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways,
but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described
is the best.


THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.

For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles
on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
[Page 270]
their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
them in their long tramp homewards.

[Illustration]

In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
[Page 271]
this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
the small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneath
should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
[Page 272]
next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
and our toboggan is now complete.

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