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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making




By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is discharged
upward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly through
the brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable to
aim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge into
the _breast_ of the animal.

The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, and
even Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increased
in power by a larger number of guns.

There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One way
consists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger,
passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted in
the under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawing
the string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick.
This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzle
and the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel is
grasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, the
result of course being the discharge of the gun. By still another
method, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock and
over the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually to
draw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stick
is inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the power
of the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that a
mere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches,
and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arranged
as first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set at
random it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a
[Page 23]
dreaded marauder to his doom.

The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by the
gun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma.


THE BOW TRAP.

This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is known
as the _tiger trap_.

[Illustration]

It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board five
inches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inches
in thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driven
into the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the board
and about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch in
diameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;
two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatly
trimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed.
This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length,
perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in
[Page 24]
diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned with
thin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremity
should be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly riveted
in place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which is
plainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece of
stout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow is
not at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consist
of cat-gut, or stout Indian twine.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game to
the spot selected as already alluded to in connection with the
gun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought.
In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, and
the same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercised
as advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured in
place directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge of
the hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staples
may be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow through
holes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bend
of the bow and length of string should now be determined, one end
of the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the other
end supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into the
ground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take up
the arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjust
the notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release the
string. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board,
keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect working
order and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the very
simple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). On
the under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notch
one eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in length
is cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The bait
stick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, the
large end being trimmed so
[Page 25]
as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latter
rests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration
(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until the
notch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _very
lightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in place
at the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma should
consist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals,
any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used.
In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small hole
and a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually prevent
its removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The prop
which sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserted
a little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surrounded
by a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top of
the enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or branches
laid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, a
double row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed,
thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Without
this precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and the
arrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the other
hand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim.
Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strength
of the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect is
almost surely fatal.

Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger,
forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used.
The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger and
is sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. The
bow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts about
eight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick is
then inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of the
bow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick,
with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the blunt
stick and the inside of the bow, the
[Page 26]
remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustration
shows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached and
carried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, being
secured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generally
barbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturated
with a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bow
between the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string.
Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along his
beaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at last
his breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow is
imbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments,
until he is released from his torments by the certain death which
follows the course of the poison through his veins.

[Illustration]

The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through the
skin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely to
prove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;
and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effective
without the venom.


THE DOWN-FALL.

This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa for
the capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why
[Page 27]
it may not be successfully employed in our own country for taking
large game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals.

[Illustration]

The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;
and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage.
This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" are
easily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs.
Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended.

The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resembles
a double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaft
just behind the barbs,--a sort of combination between a spear and
a fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched into
the flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on account
of the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purpose
of the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, and
filed to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The first
requisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. This
should be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length.
Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded,
allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should
[Page 28]
then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope,
about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches from
the other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flat
side uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implement
is now ready.

Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend over
the pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured to
the log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawn
up into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trapper
should climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, a
smaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One end
should be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notch
in the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in the
illustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A piece
of stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled end
of the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoon
beam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down,
and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, after
which the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that the
weight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm of
the lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension on
the string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precaution
is necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete the
contrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, and
driven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of the
lever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently to
hold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notch
should face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into the
notch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn across
the path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. The
trap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares make
too free with that string! A very slight pressure from either side
is equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen the
peg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case,--down
comes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to its
victim.

For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly.
When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified.
It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from one
side, it is merely slipped out of the notch,--a slight pressure
being sufficient to dislodge it,--while the pressure
[Page 29]
from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the peg
out of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightly
inserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure from
either side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired.
Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some object
on the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end of
the cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nail
or short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into an
upright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail should
point in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, and
its angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thus
be seen that an approach from one side forces the string from the
notch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring from
the nail.

This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals,
on account of its being more sensitive.

Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and the
lynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may be
dispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in its
death-dealing qualities


THE BEAR TRAP.

This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned box
or rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungry
bear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. The
lynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuch
as its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realized
before the captive is brought under control.

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sides
are built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmly
driven into the ground close together. For a large animal,--a bear,
for instance,--the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, two
and a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be built
in with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, described
in page (244.) The two posts at the entrance should be first set
up. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should be
cut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This should
likewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end,
so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the one
side, and into the second pair of uprights
[Page 30]
on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly into
the ground, having been previously notched on both sides of their
upper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either be
fixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at the
top, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair,
while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the full
length of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed by
an upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground,
after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another in
notches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is next
required. This should be large enough to cover the opening, and
should be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces.
It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicular
logs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged to
slip easily between the flattened side of one log on each side
and the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latter
an additional upright or short board should be inserted in the
ground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latter
from being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosed
captive.

[Illustration]

There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending upon
the desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration.
An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut
[Page 31]
to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the top
of the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole seven
feet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop,
or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other supplied
with a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eight
inches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, in
the back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an auger
hole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should be
inserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caught
on the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven in
the adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated on
page 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be used
also. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scented
with burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear into
almost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the above
he will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast of
honey is in view.

For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a young
pig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowl
is also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap is
varied. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearer
the front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is bored
in the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, and
about twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle is
dispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a large
knot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is prevented
from slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stick
should be about three feet in length, and of such a size at the
end as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserted
delicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, and
so as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction.

This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As the
puma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls,
and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. This
trap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger,
and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by the
same devices.


THE PIT-FALL.

The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sections
of these countries are so terribly infested with
[Page 32]
the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state of
terror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the natives
for the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which have
already been described. The pit-fall is still another device by
which this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. It
sometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts of
the tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surrounding
the habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection.
The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and its
outside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height.
As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears the
hedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reaches
the earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, from
which there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomes
the merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets.

Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma and
the lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animals
cannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourge
and a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and for
this reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required.
The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed and
baited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feet
in depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its opening
should be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged as
to resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightly
adjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure.
One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakes
firmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form a
small pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generally
a live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides should
also be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or four
feet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungry
puma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them.

They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edge
of the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on the
inside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for the
feet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure.
Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood he
will be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_.

Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the
[Page 33]
crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouse
and stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futile
efforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakes
and is lodged in the depths of the pit.

The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at least
twelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Any
projecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp for
his ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of his
leap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisable
to trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knot
hole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The construction
of a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of the
digging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so much
used as many other traps which are not only equally effective but
much more easily constructed. The following is an example:--


THE LOG COOP TRAP.

This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomes
its frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop of
logs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described on
page 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notched
at the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay two
of the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends in
the notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"
fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The corners
may be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be united
afterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top to
bottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop and
firmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several ways
of setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67
works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, as
in the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the latter
case, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at the
back of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for this
purpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructed
beneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to the
upper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limb
of the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the bait
stick by a spindle, as described
[Page 34]
for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of the
tall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to such
an angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be made
so delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interior
will dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_
mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method on
page (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must pass
easily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of the
coop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shall
be sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. The
introduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus prevent
the latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. The
bait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and with
this leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring the
pieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary.
A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet,
at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coop
may be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trap
for large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus often
productive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait should
consist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kinds
of American game are given under their respective heads in another
part of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions,
from the small example on page (67) to the size above described.

There are several other inventions commonly used for the capture
of large animals in various parts of the globe, which would be
of little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, or
Hopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo are
often destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form of
the letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Instead
of the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form a
lane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of which
a giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the margins
to prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit is
then covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedges
often extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at these
extremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or four
miles around the country adjacent to the opening, and gradually
closing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which,
by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing
[Page 35]
walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gate
presented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mell
into the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape by
running over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement,
spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutes
are smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dying
companions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effects
are sometimes appalling.

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