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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making





THE NET TRAP.

The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured to
a frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latter
is touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in the
meshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode of
capture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx and
wild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be of
stout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work,
tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should be
plenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flat
over the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a large
figure four trap, page (107), or the device described under the
coop trap, page (67).

The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seems
odd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal,
in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenacious
preparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and is
familiar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it is
unfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact with
it. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter has
secured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cans
of the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bed
of leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is so
placed that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait,
which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off the
cans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves,
and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the sticky
substance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbles
on the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered with
the dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricate
himself.

In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy
[Page 36]
prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray.

Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and are
made in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are described
under the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the various
baits and modes of setting required for the different animals, are
clearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter,
in the section "Art of Trapping."

[Illustration]




[Page 37]
[Illustration: SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS]




[Page 39]
BOOK II.

SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS.


[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under the
head of "traps," differ from them in the sense in which they are
generally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;
and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which
secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of
this kind are among the most useful and successful to the professional
Trapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will be
recognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers,
who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in the
low underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft its
misguided victim.

Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trap
kind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possess
one advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods,
and out of the commonest material.

Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet,
and a stout, keen edged jack-knife,--these being the only tools
required. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass
"sucker wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be
described further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full
of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course depending
upon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements are
complete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares,
which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed.
Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary


QUAIL SNARE,

which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consists
of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They
[Page 40]
may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire,
horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "sucker
wire," to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and country
stores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches in
diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of
the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping
loop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty of
these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened
either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches
from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long
string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden
peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into
the earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration.
The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn,
oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it
is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known
to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food,
they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally
as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer
has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on
a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will
occasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-times
happen that a rabbit will be secured by the device.

[Illustration]


HOOP NOOSES.

This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to
a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts,
which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the
bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance
is complete.

This is a very old and approved method.

In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also
[Page 41]
another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to
the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end,--the
bait adjusted as there seen.

We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and they
are commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them,
and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommend
the wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however,
for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might
desire to use them instead.

Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would
recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs
and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb
and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from
the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the
thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to
twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them
twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb.

A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult.
To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance
of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the
loop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite a
complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when
once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will
be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted,
the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small
loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened
to the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly used
in nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possess
considerable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensively
used, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slips
easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops,
which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We
recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future,
although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired.

[Illustration]

There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps very
commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A
low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small
openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed,
as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on both
sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery,
are almost sure to become entangled
[Page 42]
sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, that
they will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in their
way rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap is
only a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably run
about until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it.
It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easily
taken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very short
section of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer's
experience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, although
never using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set the
hedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ to
run. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedge
so that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect with
two trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose,
but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the ground
with corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary.

[Illustration]

There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very little
known here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "triangle
snare." It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kind
of bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens.
It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of a
triangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size,
depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure.
A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point.
This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, falling
low enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottom
of the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, a
berry, insect, or piece of
[Page 43]
meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspended
in the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should be
hung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made and
can be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan to
set out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts of
the woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcely
a day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by some
one of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawk
was captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it had
been set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, we
believe, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as we
know, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country.
We recommend it with great confidence.

For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wire
noose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has been
secured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessary
to arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wire
to a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"
the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, and
by his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loop
and thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should be
attached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole.

The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effective
trap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within its
grasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. They
are quick in their action, and produce death without much pain,
and for this reason are to be commended.


THE "TWITCH-UP."

Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all our
boy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainly
seem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" must
be far behind the times, and live in a locality where there are
no rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it.
This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys,
and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name,
"The Twitch-up," conveys perfectly its method of working. Our
illustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has many
varieties, of which we will select the best. They may be divided
into two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which
[Page 44]
the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonly
called "ground snares." We will give our attention first to the
"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on account
of the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching by
the neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their prey
into the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering.
Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that,
too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days,
was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that he
found more enjoyment and had better success with these than with any
other kinds of traps he employed.

[Illustration]

They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbits
or partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosen
trapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender,
elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generally
to be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer very
well. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed of
its branches,) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handle
or a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feet
distant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet and
knife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks for
the little inclosure shown
[Page 45]
in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter,
and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven into
the ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six inches
on one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger,
and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpened
at both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in the
form of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure.

We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the next
illustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This picture
shows the method of setting the trap.

[Illustration]

After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stick
should be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch.
To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, being
either tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, the
latter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut another
stick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened on
one end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the opposite
end. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill the
opening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again.
It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twine
should be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed to
bend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure,
until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if he
were tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the string
against the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the place
where it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the required
length. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to the
same piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose was
tied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut.
The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration.
The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath the
top of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointing
inside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with the
bait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completely
fill the arch, the trap will be set.

[Page 46]
In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarily
pass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely
_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into the
air, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well known
that in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slight
blow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It is
therefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and lifted
by the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from the
same cause.

It is not really necessary for success that the force of the sapling
should be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as a
mere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to cause
strangulation and death. But we recommend the former method as
being less painful and more rapid in its effects.

If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in finding
saplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires to
set his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting the
poles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, this
answering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicely
on the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"
may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and when
set with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coon
will occasionally be entrapped.

The next figure represents another method of constructing this
trap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notched
sticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the opening
of the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in the
figure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together.
They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the noose
and draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece,
and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily be
seen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece from
beneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air.

[Illustration: Method No. 2]

In our next instance the same principle is employed. The
[Page 47]
notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, about
five inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forked
bait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-string
should be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By now
inserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, at
the same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trap
will be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge the
pieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of the
pen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both cases
should be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_),
so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position.

[Illustration: Method No. 3]

A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In this
instance the original arch is used, or else some circular opening
constructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part of
the inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then to
be made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the
"Twitch-up." Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of these
sticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, being
brought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick,
as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attached
to the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down and
arranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and will
be found on trial to work admirably.

[Illustration: Method No. 4]

One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps forms
the subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varieties
it is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with a
circular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose.
It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should be
firmly inserted in the ground at
[Page 48]
the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straight
twig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to the
draw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) is
another forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driven
into the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side,
letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stick
at the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to the
draw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and pass
the large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catching
the baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near the
pen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, and
the thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throw
the pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the point
of the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the bait
stick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequently
more easily thrown from its balance.

[Illustration: Method No. 5]


THE POACHER'S' SNARE.

Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares in
existence,--simple in construction, and almost infallible in its
operations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers of
England, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and may
be cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employment
for the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangs
heavily.

The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that a
sufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than two
hours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife.

If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even much
easier,--mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary.
The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at one
end, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch
[Page 49]
from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter than
the bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end being
nicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity supplied
with a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from the
blunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch should
be cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catch
piece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches in
width, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes of
the different pieces, together with their setting, will be readily
understood by a look at our illustration.

[Illustration]

A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easily
carried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries,
as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with parts
for thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring the
stakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Having
selected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and having
stripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take one
of the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, with
its upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distant
from it. Bend down the "springer," and by its force determine the
required length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tip
of the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, the
latter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose should
then be attached to the draw-string about six inches above the
catch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed.
Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer,
and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be at
the back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trap
may be set.

Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch in
the side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted by
a pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration,
always letting the baited end project toward the
[Page 50]
opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notches
in the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick.
By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing the
hand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting a
lift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at the
opening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmost
confidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unlucky
intruder who tries to steal its property.

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