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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making




Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed from
rough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, and
with a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desired
forms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pine
wood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, ready
for immediate use. In either case, whether made from the rough
twigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them already
prepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time is
more valuable.


THE PORTABLE SNARE.

This is simply a modification of the snare just described, but
possesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the first
place, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure.
It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ place
where an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Like
the foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fifty
or sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishing
material for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"
partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described,
but chiefly because this particular variety is generally called
by that name in countries where it is most used.

It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thin
board. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quarters
of an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortise
should be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginning
at about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from the
other end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notch
should be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in our
illustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long,
one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured
[Page 51]
by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, on
which it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and two
inches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to that
in the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length,
and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces.

[Illustration]

To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling,
after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to the
ground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmly
around both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of the
upright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping.
Tie a strong piece of twine around one
[Page 52]
end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut the
string about two feet in length, and attach the other end to the
tip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By now
lowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath the
notch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the bait
stick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should be
taken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches,
in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from the
catch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in a
circle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap with
a few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind,
the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that dares
to test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as the
upper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick is
so slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we may
safely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited,
so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet have
seen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morsel
before being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty.

For portability, however, the following has no equal.


THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE.

This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used in
the art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universal
in its application to traps in general as to become a matter of
great value to all who are at all interested in the subject. There
is scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with the
knotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thought
and ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look at
our engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-up
it is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole the
size of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the
[Page 53]
ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the draw-string, and passed
through the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in place
by the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should be
about four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly,--merely
enough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should be
fastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot,
and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, which
should be constructed as previously directed. The peg should be
about six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inch
auger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience,
and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time.
We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, for
portability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above.
We give also a few other applications of the same principle.

[Illustration: Method No. 1]

In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of the
peg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught in
notches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and the
noose arranged at the opening.

[Illustration: Method No. 2]

Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notched
sticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigs
continued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway between
as represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set at
each opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whichever
side it is approached, the result is the same, besides affording
a chance of securing two birds at the same time.


THE QUAIL SNARE.

That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run together
in broods in search of their food, is a fact well known
[Page 54]
to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus afforded
the hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantage
may be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. For
this purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective than
the snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionable
habits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one.
The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the three
foregoing.

[Illustration: Method No. 3]

Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches
apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath
these summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;
several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the
trap set as already directed.

[Illustration]

The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled on
the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground
right beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait so
as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced
into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. The
quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground,
and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply here
is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"
on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thus
released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.
This invention is original with the author of this work, so far
as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most
effective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as bait
partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;
but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates
[Page 55]
in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the
trap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer
very well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait,
if desired.


THE BOX SNARE.

This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may
desire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, or
feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. For
ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving
one end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustration
and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half
inches from the back edge.

[Illustration]

This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly opposite
to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched
peg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on a
line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from
the latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at
the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back
board, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparations
the box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or six
inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should be
of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided
with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from
the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The object
of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely
[Page 56]
through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch piece
should be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches in
the peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It should
be bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described,
and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment being
at about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be about
two and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at about
six inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it is
first necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about four
feet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insert
it firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it in
place at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. By
now attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling,
inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing the
catch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium,
and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long end
of the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slipping
noose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In order
to reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose,
and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that tempting
morsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire around
the neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the captured
animal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will be
carried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;
but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of the
sapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired,
the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent any
such capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a few
minutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive.

We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is not
a requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required.

The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone,
for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. The
size we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals of
the same size, but is really larger than necessary for feathered
game.


THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE.

This is another embodiment of the same principle which has already
been described, viz.--the knotted string. By many it
[Page 57]
is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owing
to the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. It
may be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found very
efficient.

[Illustration]

It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length,
and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of the
diameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperture
also made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in the
accompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This should
consist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feet
in length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, made
through the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom at
the angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may be
easily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The bait
stick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enough
to fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Next
procure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one
[Page 58]
end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a large
double knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch and
a half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity.
Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tied
over the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness,
the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will pass
through the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in the
inside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of the
top of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be only
very slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficient
to prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus held
in the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of the
sucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holes
and arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap is
now set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that bait
from either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end.
The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only the
slightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guarded
against, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as by
a larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirely
dependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick.
Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, there
is scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in this
variety, and there is none more effective.

The box snare already described may be set by the same method,
and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, from
the simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall.

* * * * *


GROUND SNARES.

THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE.

[Illustration]

This is the variety of snare which has been in very common use
for ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noose
trap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon for
illustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;
and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we will
give an illustration of it as it appears when
[Page 59]
set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is first
necessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteen
inches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securing
the tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger end
to project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which is
called the "spreader," should now be laid down flat; and on the
upper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notch
should be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next be
procured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, about
four feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long,
should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the loose
end of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at
(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and should
be whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached at
about its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair,
or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastened
to the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switch
thus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the place
selected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexible
twig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened at
both ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch
(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having its
broad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactly
under the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved end
of the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) should
be driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The
[Page 60]
pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of the
spreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc with
the notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneath
the arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in the
notch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper part
of the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as our
drawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, as
otherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew the
bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ the
spreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settle
on the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait and
hopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon the
spreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released,
the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by the
legs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the struggling
creature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutter
itself into a speedy death.


THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE.

[Illustration]

The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentioned
trap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, and
with most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotched
stick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the other
end being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader.
On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform is
tacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Instead
of the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose should
be at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire.
It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and inside
of the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the bait
stick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only being
lifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to insert
a few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keep
it in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge
[Page 61]
in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in order
to reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice meal
of oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon the
bait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus set
the catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp from
which he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;
but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thus
torturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommend
in preference, those varieties already described as being fully as
successful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death,
either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regard
among the most humane traps on record.


THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE.

[Illustration]

For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps which
can compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similar
to those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. The
trap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three inches
long, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of the
proportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at which
will make the setting too clear to need description. Be careful
that the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the
_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait will
release it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described,
and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbin
of corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always remembering
that the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birds
to step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait.


THE PLATFORM SNARE.

[Illustration]

This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap,
and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or light
board about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selected
the spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff
[Page 62]
switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the larger
end to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slanting
direction as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip of
the sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catch
the tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustration
also shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the right
place for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in the
ground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the opposite
end. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch,
after which the pen is the only thing required. This should be
built of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of the
board, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower the
switch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch the
tip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose over
the platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has been
constructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slight
weight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight of
an ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus released
will fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs,
as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cut
a slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board,
but in every case it should be tried several times in order to
be sure that it works sensitively.




[Page 63]
[Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]

[Page 65]
BOOK III.

TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.

[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various net
and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besides
several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many
of which are original with the author of this work and appear in
the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among
bird-catching machines, is the well known invention of


THE SIEVE TRAP.

This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is not
complicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of string
can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has
patience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure to
be rewarded for his pains,--if he wait long enough. This of course
depends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not
shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a
very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting
is unrewarded.

The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped
in position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread is
attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment,
when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "little
bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs,
seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying
their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners.
The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop
trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where
[Page 66]
the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers
the purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensue
the self-acting trap is better.


THE BRICK TRAP.

This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three
or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication in
all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.

Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our
engraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properly
arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large
as the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of the
shape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piece
cut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Next
cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed
at each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driven
into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either
of the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground.
The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forked
twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward,
or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointed
stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of
the fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick,
which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly shows
the arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries,
bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered
on the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies
[Page 67]
to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which by
his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting
fall the sustained brick.

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