William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

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[Illustration]

It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed
will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmost
brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely
cover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual little
contrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, if
desired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick,
and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further
apart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.

[Illustration]

THE COOP TRAP.

This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
is most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easy
manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
engraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
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will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
forenoon.

[Illustration]

In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
come on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leaving
a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
the two selected sticks across the ends of the
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uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
at (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
last for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cut
three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
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short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or the
like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
directly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
they had been brought up to it.

The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
be seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ the
coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
in comparison.

THE BAT FOWLING NET.

With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but
so far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent in
this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern,
and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured.

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[Illustration]

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be
constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, about
eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached,
and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn down
the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends
should now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece
of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such
a size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen
in the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag,
about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is
used as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a dark
night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer a
favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they
are sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, as
the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual
sounds.

Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds
the light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes the
net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat
the bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from the
bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then
moderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against
the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and
when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken
in a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actual
use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The
dark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light often
so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the
lantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily taken
with the hand.

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THE CLAP NET.

In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common
resource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may be
called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally
used in connection with it. They are placed at distances around the
trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These
birds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed
bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood,
and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely
dispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. This
will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a
"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend
the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the use
of this little whistle, is something surprising.

[Illustration]

No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrush
or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceive
the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves.
Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learn
to use the whistle to good advantage.

The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large that
several hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"
by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The
net is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smaller
if desired:--

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Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen
feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inch
in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may
be constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one should
be securely whipped to each end of the netting.

Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate
pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch from
the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of
the net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied,
each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one of
which is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inches
in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and
sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied
with a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easily
secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described.
By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now be
bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch
for the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.

The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may
thus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This should
be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets
and spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration.
Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a
space of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the
net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at
each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by
the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight or
ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at
our engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distant
from the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_
edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from the
net in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope should
be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of the
nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net
perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feet
in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw
eyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string is
attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose.
To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-string
should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop,
the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas
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when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move a
trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without
striking--completely covering the ground between them. When the
trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter
where the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading the
bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds
at the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing
his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his
game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.

Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way.

The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used with good
effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a
proximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, after
which their capture is easily effected.

THE BIRD WHISTLE.

This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly
shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First,
procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular
piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre of
this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A
semi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of the
shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across
the ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entire
length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece
of thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about
an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its long
edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the
leather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Next
lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and
by the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes,
including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this is
done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not
attainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membrane
of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.

[Illustration]

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To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin
side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. When
once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful
blowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising variety
of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may
be made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squeal
of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In
short, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped,
the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of
the prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be
called, the "menagerie whistle."

THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.

In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan
flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consists
merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width,
arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position by
two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally
set on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings to
the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires
to a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used as
decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is used
for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait
consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less tempting
allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless
and hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerable
amount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snow
renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and
the Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing
immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple
allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow,
placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carried
to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the
trapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds under
the net.

When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the
adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets.
This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come
in sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_,
and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game.
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The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull,
hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they are
prisoners.

Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of
the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed on
a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.

THE TRAP CAGE.

[Illustration]

Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal
trap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful.
The cage is arranged in two compartments,
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one above the other,--the lower one being occupied by the call-birds.
The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much
patience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercise
that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may
help them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height
should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the top
and other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights.
These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in
length. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight
inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a
small cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square,
thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends of
the uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces,
the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes,
as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with a
brad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighths
of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights
may then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered
each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four more
of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length,
and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these should
now be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of a
picture-frame. They should then be attached to
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the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of
each, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end of
the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with
holes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and running
up and down in the direction of the wires.

[Illustration]

The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be
ten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half,
and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched
with holes corresponding with those above, after which they may
be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, and
secured by a brad at each end.

The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks should
be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and the
top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set
in _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be secured
about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen
in the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces,
and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron,
or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be
pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides,
in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the
narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used for
the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the
lower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout.
This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty
yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used.
It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily.
Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board
through one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward,
through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and
across to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From
this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and
again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it
upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of the
cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started.
Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after which
the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus
carried around the small end of the cage until it finally meets
at the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cage
should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main
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illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wire
from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an
additional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched
for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introduced
should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of
doing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches square
in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece
of tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which
are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhaps
the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_),
together with its mode of attachment.

It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch
square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inches
in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board
in each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece,
at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then
be wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each side
should be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage should
now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for
the door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across the
middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done
with a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the
wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When this
is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about
a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projecting
tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers.
The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to the
board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through
the holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop
the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wires
at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down.
Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centre
of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest
on the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust
the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it.
The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat
and work easily.

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