William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

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The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete
this it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, as
seen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lower
piece of the door and about two inches below it. The
[Page 80]
_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven
between the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door,
while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient
to bring down the door with a snap; and for further security a
catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired.

The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consists
of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at
each end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen
in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle should
now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the
central wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of a
berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle
or placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced,
the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained
it will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will
be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautious
than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He
soon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws it
asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive.
The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartments
beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling
two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not
an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds are
caught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructed
on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture
of the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird,
and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working
on this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the
owl, will be noticed hereafter.

THE SPRING NET TRAP.

Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration
presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may be
made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the
picture, our explanation will be easily understood.

The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen
inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about two
inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same
[Page 81]
height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch between
them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a
size that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slight
space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper
part of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven through
into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively
poised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and
catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood
fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one
end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at
(_b_).

[Illustration]

The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with
a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly opposite
the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself
beneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs should
next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of
the spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustration
makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop
should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph
wire.

For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight
inches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however,
its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of
bent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between the
two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire
should now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the space
between the boxes, letting each end rest
[Page 82]
over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there will
be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the
pincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or rings
already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus
be made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they should
allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other,
and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should
prove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort to
another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very
well. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exact
middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length
of twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a short
loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these
loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws,
it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the more
complicated one.

[Illustration]

The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this
cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should be
sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with
the hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over the
platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining
half. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of
space for the bird.

But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned
the use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here,
and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the section
drawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of the
groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on
both sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop
quickly from one side to the other.

It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the
opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindle
over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing
its end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait,
[Page 83]
consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now
sprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its feathered
victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_
side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end of
the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant
is covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may
have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap,
and will well repay the trouble of making it.

A SIMPLER NET TRAP.

[Illustration]

Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps
of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, and
the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for
practical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in this
volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand
them. What can be more so than the present example, and yet it
is as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varieties
of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap
of any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they spring
easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction
as much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and having
as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The present
variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed
somewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and also
resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although
much simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will be
sufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen
inches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire,
to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described,
[Page 84]
the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;
(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and
half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle of
the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the
surface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attached
by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine,
five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;
on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece,
and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape
shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side should
be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle,
and the other should project out two or three inches, being covered
on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood
either glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the main
board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into
the bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked through
it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming
a loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower
tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at
(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with
two staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). In
our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber
elastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but by
way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may
be successfully employed in the construction of traps of various
kinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of tempered
hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be
about three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quarters
of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to
be attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thus
tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in
cold water.

One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side,
directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the position
shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle
and catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trap
is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform,
and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;
and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before it
will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising
the wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin
[Page 85]
catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire
and hold it in its place.

THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.

The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat
similar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working.

Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the
edge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wire
is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and
bent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equal
sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small
loop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be
secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of
the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into
the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allow
the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed
to tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Two
elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing
their loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightly
drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of
this trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square and
slender,--the lower end being flattened, and the upper end secured
to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.
An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch
and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the length
being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked
on to the upper edge of the board.

The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. It
may be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, or
even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which
is hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inches
in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches
square, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of
the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving.
The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the
leather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in order
that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it.
The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear.

When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the
[Page 86]
trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lower
the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on
the platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressure
of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen
in our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platform
should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the
trap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the
spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stick
to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the
tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position.
But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it
springs easily.

[Illustration]

When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little
also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it.
The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting
on the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on the
platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the
wire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is secured
without harm.

[Illustration: Method 2.]

Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform.
It should be about three or four inches square,
[Page 87]
and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should
be fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, should
be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to
the platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total
length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When
tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other
two and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. This
latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project
about a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edge
of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its
end filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would be
too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer
every purpose. The upright props which support the platform should
be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and half
an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have
one end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being inserted
in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes
should be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first at
about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert
the shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of the
platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire
staple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determine
the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath
the point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of
the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectly
parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place,
and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires a
little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing
it to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug
should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration
shows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to
pass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown
[Page 88]
in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught
finely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the opposite
end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the
prop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn with
bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and
will be found very effective.

THE BOX OWL TRAP.

The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an
odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which has
been successfully used for that purpose.

The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our
engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (This
ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_
traps.) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen or
more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceed
to fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in
the shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover by
means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over
the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should be
raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where
the end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should be
marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough
for the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics should
now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the
bottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, as
seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to
draw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist
of a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_,) one end provided with
a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front
of the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_,) keeping the notch on
the _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening
the cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by then
hooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)
the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that a
very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop
and let the cover down with swiftness.

To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied
to the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A piece
of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer
for this purpose. One end should be bent
[Page 89]
down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached
by two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown in
the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of
whatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. It
is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics
might be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.

[Illustration]

This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly
designed for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom of
the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets,
grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and it
may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin
through the body, just behind the head.

There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on
insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there is
scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird
on approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on the
perch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so before
long. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the
[Page 90]
top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon
it. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be a
trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment
upon.

We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may
be used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose,
it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either
fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with the
trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait,
as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string,
and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of
the owl by its chirping.

The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood
where the owls in the night are heard to "hoot." The chances are
that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.

This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our
young reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enough
to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number
of rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great deal
of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.

Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw
meat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept in
a cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require
to be clipped.

THE BOX BIRD TRAP.

Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing.
Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trap
appears when set.

[Illustration]

The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has
been used with excellent success, and for small birds is just the
thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge of
some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done
is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, through
the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the
inside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about four
inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted
as that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, as
seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through
[Page 91]
the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be
supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in order
comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration,
and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joined
together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached
and the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend the
cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with
the necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing.

THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.

This invention is original with the author of this work, and when
properly made and set will prove an excellent device for the capture
of small birds.

The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in
our illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it
should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied
with a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then
be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation.

Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the
cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_.) They should be
drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against
the box.

The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs
in construction from any other described in this book.

It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven
[Page 92]
inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of the
box.

It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut,
the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should be
attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack,
as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachment
should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the
exact centre of the width of the back.

[Illustration]

Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry
or other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity of
the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now
easily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the position
given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick
against that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid to
bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shown
in the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover to
receive it, as also in the back of the box for the other piece.
If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold
the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is
[Page 93]
thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will
throw the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap.

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