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William Hamilton Gibson - Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making

W >> William Hamilton Gibson >> Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making




If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similar
size, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient to
effect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone
[Page 113]
may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with other
logs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, this
precaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which some
animals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of the
pen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record where
the intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, and
taken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspended
log, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticks
or branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent any
such capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take the
bait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone.

For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips,
apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the head
of a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually be
taken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl.

In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of the
trap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire to
try a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a description
of it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log was
not more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick,
a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame or
lattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen,
and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastened
to the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top.
The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust his
head through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrown
out of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly.

There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall,
commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprung
by the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This construction
is shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the front
view, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch represented
at (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into the
ground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) is
the treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that dares
rest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretch
across and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. To
set the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of the
peg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, as
directed in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the
[Page 114]
top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inward
from the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caught
between its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches above
the ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part of
the pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectly
reliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen in
the illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cut
a slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception of
the foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered,
is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success.

[Illustration]

The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of this
book, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used.
It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening of
the pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavy
log being poised on its summit.


THE GARROTE.

There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall,
but which seizes its prey in a little different manner.
[Page 115]
This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly represented
by our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that of
the dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastened
in the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forked
stick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at the
side of the arches, and about three feet distant.

[Illustration]

Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap,
but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" or
arrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:
First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the back
part of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig,
the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached to
its end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catching
beneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to need
description. The second should be about eight inches long; a notch
should be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side from
which the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ side
of the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by our
illustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotch
of some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_
the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with the
exception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need not
trouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the three
pieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote." This should
be made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavy
stone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letter
U, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened
[Page 116]
at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructive
work, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fall
between the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneath
the front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After this
the bait stick should be placed in its position, with the bait
pointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in the
ground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. This
done, and the trap is set.

[Illustration]

Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the side
of the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the front
is positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be careful
to see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and that
the top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directions
are carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected a
good trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days before
he will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by some
rabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on its
hind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequently
secured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don't
show much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to prefer
to get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end of
a bait stick.


THE BOW TRAP.

This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's,
and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durability
and of the speedy death which it inflicts.

[Illustration]

Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width,
and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole four
or more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw,
by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it.
There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the hole
and eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top of
the trap. On the upper edge of the hole
[Page 117]
a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in the
illustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inches
from it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), should
be bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished on
the interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, inserted
inside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it be
about half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearly
the whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a little
over an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little piece
of wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be made
very carefully. The remaining end of the board below the auger
hole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may be
driven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two pieces
of wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in our
illustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These
[Page 118]
pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square.
A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distance
of four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end should
be rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjusting
the pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to the
board, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_),
and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, and
three-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and having
its end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-string
from being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge of
these catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the top
of the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arranged
one above the other, so that wherever the string may stop against
the neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches being
in place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notch
be on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Each
piece should be fastened with two screws to make secure.

We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be
about six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows.
There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both
shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw
eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the
board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case,
should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method
(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot
for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch
from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made
by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut
in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A
stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in
the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it
should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This
forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for
the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the
auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the
point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut
a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.
This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have
it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very
well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy
staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should
be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our
[Page 119]
illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.
The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face
downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and
pass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of
the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed
the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under
side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed
when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the
string flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim,
and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the
bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and
thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases
it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is
pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to
spring.

In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert
it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in
order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a
stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait
may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required
in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be
_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in
the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this
is made clear in our illustration (_b_).

By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and
sensitive.

Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.


THE MOLE TRAP.

If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers
has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would
effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.
Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and
many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of
the illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance when
tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole
traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.
The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on
page 120.

Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and
eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated
with a large auger is just the thing. Through
[Page 120]
the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead
pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an
inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the
passage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout
steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length,
inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the
manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.
A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an
inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as
described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the
spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its
position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes
cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The
trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find
a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the
trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds
through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side
he may approach.

Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a
single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages
over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing
success.


A FISH TRAP.

Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and
although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under
our article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both new
and novel.

[Illustration]

Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare,
page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first
be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends,
a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument,
the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe,
thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside,
as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture
[Page 121]
should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper
side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_
through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stout
stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. The
further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical
with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel,
and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient
firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should
be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks
at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap,
select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom
of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.

By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be
easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitude
of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot,
and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from
the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of
the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.

[Illustration: Maternal advice.]




[Page 123]
[Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]


[Page 125]
BOOK V.

HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.

[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record
see our page title to this section. There are several others also
which have done good service in many households, and for the sake
of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume
for their especial benefit.

Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent,
and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture often
a very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however,
a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with some
perfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average rat
may be easily outwitted and led to his destruction.

First on the list is


THE BARREL TRAP.

This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in its
capabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the vermin
in quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires no
re-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is sure
death to its prisoners.

A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pour
water to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thick
paper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securely
below the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughly
flat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bits
of cheese, etc., and the barrel so placed
[Page 126]
that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. As
soon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on the
paper and the same operation repeated for several days, until the
rats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations,
fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle," and
the capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is now
an easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and a
few pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum.
It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic,
sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middle
of the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrel
to take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along,
spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence,
jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water at
the bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and is
ready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is not
long to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company with
the first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more
[Page 127]
are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is a
most excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will most
effectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood.

[Illustration]

By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottom
of the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the water
sufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim,
of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitate
arrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbub
which follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhood
to the spot, and many are thus captured.

We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being an
improvement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal,
and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excite
his caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soon
accomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract and
warn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested and
has proved its efficacy in many households by completely ridding
the premises of the vermin.

Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principle
described in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructed
and hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by driving
a couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into a
couple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform.
The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the above
mentioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in a
stationary position for several days to gain the confidence of
the rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform with
gum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, as
already described. This trap possesses the same advantages as the
foregoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action.

Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, and
allowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days.
When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the same
bulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly with
the grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectually
proven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed free
lunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks to
the bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more are
likely to be added to the list of misguided victims.

[Page 128]
Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adapted
for domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare,
page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the capture
of the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and
129.

The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed from
view. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, and
placed in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at the
mouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-colored
cloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the like
offer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered,
as before directed.

Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Much
of the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than an
instinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which the
animal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim will
seldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupant
are thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smoking
the trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking care
to avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steel
springs. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order to
insure success, and the position and localities of setting should
be frequently changed.


THE BOX DEAD-FALL.

[Illustration]

This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and for
the capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consists
of a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and open
at both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; top
and bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter,
a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The width
of this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches.
Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in the
bottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, working
on central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be much
thinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit loosely
in place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottom
board. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots should
be inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes made
in the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored with
a gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may
[Page 129]
consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one should
be flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot should
project an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ inserted
in the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceed
to fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, the
top and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now give
our attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittled
from a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and its
upper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with a
crevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremity
of the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. The
weight (_d_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oak
plank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as will
allow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottom
therein without catching between two sides. A stout staple should
be driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stout
string should be passed upward through a hole in the centre of
the box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should be
about three inches in length, and bluntly pointed
[Page 130]
at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inches
above the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seen
in the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), and
attach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, which
should then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caught
against the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted,
and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring at
the slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precaution
is advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven,
one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movement
of the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weight
on either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt it
to one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing on
the spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weight
with crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim.

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